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Removing ER-5 crankcase

  • 23-07-2010 11:56am
    #1
    Darith
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 324 ✭✭


    I have a slight crack in the front left panel of the engine which i presume is the crank case ( picture attached). Should i use tiger seal from the inside or would a specialist duraflex weld which i have a available. Also is it as simple draining the oil ( i need to change the oil filter anyways) and removing the the seven or eight screws around the edge because there two other screw mechanisms in the centre and above centre ? or is it more complicated?


Comments

  • #2
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    you are looking at the damage to the cover, so remove it and clean on the bench, and it should be fine. No need drain oil. Clean the area first, take off cover, repair, and re-fit. It there's a paper gasket, replace it.

    What about the crack around the engine mounting bolt ? The mounting bolt crack will need welding.......

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  • #3
    Wossack
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,044 ✭✭✭Wossack


    +1 to the above

    I'd also recommend getting torque settings and using a suitable wrench.. dont want to warp, crack or shear anything


  • #4
    Papa_Bear
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    Thats Durafix easyweld mate also known as technoweld - check it on youtube. Handy stuff but a little tricky to use!


  • #5
    Darith
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 324 ✭✭Darith


    galwaytt wrote: »
    you are looking at the damage to the cover, so remove it and clean on the bench, and it should be fine. No need drain oil. Clean the area first, take off cover, repair, and re-fit. It there's a paper gasket, replace it.

    What about the crack around the engine mounting bolt ? The mounting bolt crack will need welding.......

    Thanks for advice on the cover. Well done for spotting the crack at the mounting bolt but i had a look and it does not seem a crack it's just a edge so to speak.
    Wossack wrote: »
    +1 to the above

    I'd also recommend getting torque settings and using a suitable wrench.. dont want to warp, crack or shear anything

    I have a hayes manual which should have the torque settings otherwise i should be able to obtain them
    Papa_Bear wrote: »
    Thats Durafix easyweld mate also known as technoweld - check it on youtube. Handy stuff but a little tricky to use!

    Yes a bit of a challenge


  • #6
    Hotblack Desiato
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,549 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Jeez man that radiator mount is rusty as is the fuel tap bracket.

    As for the exhausts, I thought only my old GS500E had pipes that could get that rusty..! I used to take them off and coat them from head to tail in heat resistant black every six months, and they still looked like crap within weeks. Looks like Suzuki no longer have the monopoly on really badly finished bikes... :(

    In Cavan there was a great fire / Judge McCarthy was sent to inquire / It would be a shame / If the nuns were to blame / So it had to be caused by a wire.



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  • #7
    Ratchet
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭Ratchet


    what is story with engine mount ...is it cracked too?


  • #8
    Darith
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 324 ✭✭Darith


    Ratchet wrote: »
    what is story with engine mount ...is it cracked too?

    It's just an edge, i know it looks like a crack when viewed on the photo


  • #9
    Darith
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 324 ✭✭Darith


    Open the alternator cover and got some welding done, although there was some oil inside which did leak through the crack. Is it normal to have some oil in the er-5 alternator casing ?


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