NCT Failure - How easy to fix ?

whippet

My E36 323 coupe has failed this morning, I was expecting it to fail but not on what I thought it would do.

The front left shock is gone and the rear break lines are corroded.

My question is, to a novice DIYer how easy not so easy is this to correct.

I have a basic enough work shop to use and the help of the auld fella .. but would I be better off getting a proper mechanic to do the job?

Slidey

They would both be potentially relatively simple jobs to do for a DIYer that had a bit of knowledge.

The rear brakelines could be nasty or handy depending on how long a section you need to replace and where they are routed.

whippet

Slidey wrote: »

They would both be potentially relatively simple jobs to do for a DIYer that had a bit of knowledge.

The rear brakelines could be nasty or handy depending on how long a section you need to replace and where they are routed.

can the brake lines be treated ?

Would there be any need for special tools for the struts? I think I am going to have to pluck up the courage and dive in !!!

Slidey

You would need spring clamps for the struts and the knowledge on how to use them otherwise you could cut the head off yerself with a flying coil spring.

You may get away with sanding the brake pipes but chances are they will fail them again

Run_to_da_hills

I would get a quote at fastfit for the shocks. Got the shocks done on the old mans Golf recently and was surprised at the quote. It wasn't worth the hassle doing them my self for the price.

I would definitally leave anything to do with the braking system to a qualified mechanic. Also many places will not fit parts that you purchase so its best to leave it all up to them to do.

gofaster_s13

Back brake lines on BMW's go over the rear subframe, can be very awkward to replace.

shamwari

You need to replace both front shocks and not just the one which is shown as defective. Otherwise the likelihood is that you will end up in an imbalance on that axle, and another test failure.

As you appear to be unfamilar with the specifics of these jobs (shocks & brakes), and that both have the potential to get quite difficult, I would suggest you get the work done by a mechanic or the likes of fastfit. Trust me, the money you would save doing it yourself is not be worth the aggravation.

whippet

I would be using my auld fells workshop and he would have clamps and the like, he tends to work on vintage stuff himself and would throw his hand at anything. But I called quikfit and a price of €250 including labour for the front shocks is a bit of a no-brainer as far as I am concerened. looking on line I would be paying about €160 for the shocks myself.

With regards to the brake pipes, I will get the car up on stands myself and have a look at how far up I need to change and see what my options are.

Its proving to be a bit of a pain in the arse getting this old motor back on the road.

After nearly 3 years sitting up the gremlins are showing up.

shamwari

whippet wrote: »

With regards to the brake pipes, I will get the car up on stands myself and have a look at how far up I need to change and see what my options are.

.

Again, if you are not familiar with what you are doing then I'd leave well alone. Especially if the car has ABS brakes. You run the risk of introducing additional problems if you do not bleed an ABS system properly.

whippet

shamwari wrote: »

Again, if you are not familiar with what you are doing then I'd leave well alone. Especially if the car has ABS brakes. You run the risk of introducing additional problems if you do not bleed an ABS system properly.

i've already had my head done in with the ABS !!! first a dirty relay, and then one sensor replaced and two dirty ones to be cleaned. The remaining one is still acting up intermittantly and I reckon it will have to be taken out in bits as it just won't budge. But at the moment it's working and I am leaving it like that.

In fairness my auld fella would have plenty of experience with brakes but he's getting on now and the 'manual' part of the work isn't good for him, at least when I did the thermostat and waterpump he could stand over my shoulder giving orders !!

gofaster_s13

If your "auld fella" deals with vintage stuff then he would be very familiar with making and fitting metal brake pipes, if he checks the pipes before you fit them and shows you haw to bleed the brakes then if you are any way competant with spanner spinning then it should be straight forward enough.

Captain Slow IRL

The brake lines go over the fuel tank, so you're gonna have to loosen the handbrake cables and drop the exhaust and prop shaft before you can remove the fuel tank. You can do a lesser labour-intensive job and route the lines alongside the fuel tank but it would be a job to secure them (not sure how an nct tester would view them)

Just out of curiousity, is your car of english or irish origin?!

whippet

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

The brake lines go over the fuel tank, so you're gonna have to loosen the handbrake cables and drop the exhaust and prop shaft before you can remove the fuel tank. You can do a lesser labour-intensive job and route the lines alongside the fuel tank but it would be a job to secure them (not sure how an nct tester would view them)

Just out of curiousity, is your car of english or irish origin?!

it's a NI car originally. but was sitting up for a few years.

I am sort of determined to get it right, as apart from these issues its in very good nick. The paintwork is almost immaculate (tiny stone chip above the petrol filler cap) and a small bubble near the rear wheel arch.

The other issue I have is the rear right ABS sensor is acting the maggot and does not know if it wants to work or not. I have tried to remove it to give it a clean but it does not want to budge !

I will have it up on stands hopefully this weekend and I can have a good look at the condition of the brake lines and see exactly what is needed !

Captain Slow IRL

Rear ABS sensors can be a pain in the hole - try dousing it with penetrating fluid over a couple of days prior to removal, and be very careful removing the bolt that holds it in. I've had 1 or 2 snap on me and they're a f*cking nightmare to drill out :mad:

If you can get your hands on a die grinder or dremel, it'll make life a lot easier - clean the corossion out of the slot before inserting the new sensor so it slides in easily, you shouldn't have to use a lot of force to insert the new one.

If the brake lines weren't that bad, I'd avoid the retest but spray them with black paint and go for a fresh test - if there is noticeable pitting or corrosion, the only option is replacing them though.