Im ignorant and I want to end the bliss

GTE

Hey all,

This is spurred on by an oil topic over in Motors.

Ill be honest and say Im totally ignorant about getting the car a service, I have been driving for just a year this month and never had to put the car through a service myself.
A fair few questions here .

My Golf TDI (2000) is on 158 or 9k miles and a service is due at 160.
I dont know if it needs a full service or just one thats outlined in the sticky here.

I also dont know how to approach a garage about a service. I dont want to just give them the car and then collect it, I wouldnt mind having a bit more control and assurance about it.

The timing belt was done at 150k miles but Im hearing noises if I go full lock with some speed over level changes so I think the car needs a head to toe check. Could I get that done and leave the oil change out of it for me to do? Is that worth it?

Im thinking of getting some 0w30 or 40 in the engine next time around. Would the garage mind if I gave them the oil that I wanted to put in? I know its shouldnt matter but at the same time Im curious.

After the service in the garage I plan to check the oil dipstick before I leave to make sure it looks new. If it ended up to be black so quick could I realistically give out stink about them not doing an oil change and expect help?

Also, should I ask for a list of what they are going to do before they service it so I know what they are trying to charge me for?

Im also thinking of doing an oil change in between services.
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_241361_categoryId_212549_langId_-1?cm_vc=IOV4PDPZ1&iozone=PDPz1

It seems like a handy thing to have for oil and filter changes but would it tilt the car too much for it to empty the oil properly?

Thanks for helping a newbie out.
With any luck after a while I will have learned a lot.

voxpop

Service of a diesel is easy. No plugs to mess up, nothing really can go wrong once you dont overfill the oil.

Get a oil extraction pump


The extraction pump mean you dont even need to jack up the car - you stick the probe down the dipstick and it sucks out the oil. You can also suck out the excess oil from the oil filter housing.

For oil i used Castrol edge 0w30 - that was on my old PD golf.
Oil filter and air filter can be gotten from motor factors - otto in tallaght or anywhere really.
Probably usefull to get yourself a oil filter pliers.


With the correct tools - you service should only take 15/20 mins. You then take the old oil to your local recycling centre where its disposed of for free.

If you want to go the whole hog - you can replace the fuel filter aswell - its in the engine bay and an easy job

The knocking noise is probably some worn bush in the front suspension - so if you want it checked out at a garage - just tell the mechanic exactly what you said here and ask him to check the front suspension components for wear.


Btw - Just on checking the oil - in a diesel the oil will go black pretty much straight away.

Muckie

Haynes Manual for your car is also handy to have, explain and show

in detail whats what on your car.

Slidey

voxpop wrote: »

Get a oil extraction pump


The extraction pump mean you dont even need to jack up the car - you stick the probe down the dipstick and it sucks out the oil. You can also suck out the excess oil from the oil filter housing.

IMO it is a lot better to drain the oil via the bung.

That way you get all the oil out and can see if there is anything in the oil that shouldn't be there

Probably usefull to get yourself a oil filter pliers.

The oil filter in the TDI is under a plastic cap, using something like this will only end in tears. It is a just a paper element. Get the proper tool for removing it and you'll have it forever and it can do a good range of cars. Opel and Mercedes also use the same set up.

Someone already posted in this forum that they bought the tool and it was only a few euros

voxpop

Slidey wrote: »

IMO it is a lot better to drain the oil via the bung.

That way you get all the oil out and can see if there is anything in the oil that shouldn't be there

Up to yourself really - isnt there usually a lip in the sump anyway so you wont be getting it all out and you wont get out the old stuff in the oil filter housing. Anyway if you want to do it the hard (and old;) ) way - go for it. Ive been using one of those extraction pumps for a good while and its a great job.

Slidey wrote: »

The oil filter in the TDI is under a plastic cap, using something like this will only end in tears. It is a just a paper element. Get the proper tool for removing it and you'll have it forever and it can do a good range of cars. Opel and Mercedes also use the same set up.

Someone already posted in this forum that they bought the tool and it was only a few euros

Im not sure how it will end in tears - as Ive said ive used the above tool on my TDI golf and a corsa - both have the same plastic cover and an insert filter. That tool worked great - not sure what the other one is unless you are talking about chains (can crack the plastic housing) or a belt one or just a large socket ? - used a standard large socket on the E39, which worked a treat also

Muckie wrote: »

Haynes Manual for your car is also handy to have, explain and show

in detail whats what on your car.

+1 worth having - though sometimes not great and a bit outdated. Does have the torque values for just about everything so handy for that.

Slidey

voxpop wrote: »

Im not sure how it will end in tears - as Ive said ive used the above tool on my TDI golf and a corsa - both have the same plastic cover and an insert filter. That tool worked great - not sure what the other one is unless you are talking about chains (can crack the plastic housing) or a belt one or just a large socket ? - used a standard large socket on the E39, which worked a treat also

Here is the right tool

mathepac

bbk wrote: »

... Im thinking of getting some 0w30 or 40 in the engine next time around. Would the garage mind if I gave them the oil that I wanted to put in? I know its shouldnt matter but at the same time Im curious. ...

Is this the correct oil for that engine? VWs are very fussy about the oil they use as the wrong oil can lead to problems.

I'd be more concerned about this aspect of it than offending the garage.

bbk wrote: »

... After the service in the garage I plan to check the oil dipstick before I leave to make sure it looks new. If it ended up to be black so quick could I realistically give out stink about them not doing an oil change and expect help? ...

Do this if you want to end up wearing a lump hammer. If you don't trust the garage don't go there.

The oil in diesel engines, European diesel engines in particular, turns black almost instantly, so don't use the colour as a guide. By all means check the level before you drive off, it's your car.

bbk wrote: »

... Also, should I ask for a list of what they are going to do before they service it so I know what they are trying to charge me for? ...

Your maintenance schedule booklet (or Haynes manual) will tell you exactly what is due to be done at that mileage or vehicle age and also what safety check (brakes, tyres, lights, steering, fluids, etc.). Tell them exactly what you want done, ask for a price and tell them to contact you in advance if any additional work needs to be done.

bbk wrote: »

... Im also thinking of doing an oil change in between services. ...

Unless you are hauling heavy loads in extreme conditions of heat or dust I wouldn't bother, it's just a waste of money. Stick to the manufacturer's schedule with the correct oil and filter every time.

Slidey wrote: »

IMO it is a lot better to drain the oil via the bung.

That way you get all the oil out and can see if there is anything in the oil that shouldn't be there ...

+1

GTE

mathepac wrote: »

Is this the correct oil for that engine? VWs are very fussy about the oil they use as the wrong oil can lead to problems.

I have done a lot of research on oil for my TDI and VW have passed a number of 0w30/40 oils for use in the VE as well as the PD. Its a good thing to ask though, many a poor PD could be wearing itself to death because of the oil

Do this if you want to end up wearing a lump hammer. If you don't trust the garage don't go there.
Yeah, I get you there. I know because of the way the engine deals with soot that the oil goes black very fast

Your maintenance schedule booklet (or Haynes manual) will tell you exactly what is due to be done at that mileage or vehicle age and also what safety check (brakes, tyres, lights, steering, fluids, etc.). Tell them exactly what you want done, ask for a price and tell them to contact you in advance if any additional work needs to be done.
Unless you are hauling heavy loads in extreme conditions of heat or dust I wouldn't bother, it's just a waste of money. Stick to the manufacturer's schedule with the correct oil and filter every time.
+1
I have the Haynes manual and its very handy but I also believe it recommends more frequent oil changes anyway

Thanks to the rest of the posts also. Ill consult my Haynes and get a checklist going for the next service.

Would it be worth my while getting the garage to do the work except for oil and filter changes? I suppose Id save on some labour costs.

Esel

bbk wrote: »

I'm hearing noises if I go full lock with some speed over level changes so I think the car needs a head to toe check...

I'd say this is a CV (constant velocity) joint on the way out. If you're lucky, and catch it early, it may just be that the rubber boot has burst and the grease has leaked out. Getting a new boot fitted and repacked with grease shouldn't be expensive, but if the CV joint itself is worn, it will cost a fair bit more. If this is the case, I'm sure you could get a spurious CV joint, boot and grease kit for a fair bit less than the VW parts would cost.

GTE

esel wrote: »

I'd say this is a CV (constant velocity) joint on the way out. If you're lucky, and catch it early, it may just be that the rubber boot has burst and the grease has leaked out. Getting a new boot fitted and repacked with grease shouldn't be expensive, but if the CV joint itself is worn, it will cost a fair bit more. If this is the case, I'm sure you could get a spurious CV joint, boot and grease kit for a fair bit less than the VW parts would cost.

Hmm, that sounds a bit out of my league to fix if I got the parts, or at least thats what I think you mean. Ill consult the Haynes but most importantly it is something that should be checked sooner rather then later?

Ill get on it.

Esel

Yeah, it's not a job to undertake lightly. What I really meant was for you to ask your mechanic to use a spurious CV joint, if it needs to be replaced.

GTE

esel wrote: »

Yeah, it's not a job to undertake lightly. What I really meant was for you to ask your mechanic to use a spurious CV joint, if it needs to be replaced.

Grand. Ill do a Google and see what I can find but are there any places on the web that would be recommended to buy from?

Plug

bbk wrote: »

Grand. Ill do a Google and see what I can find but are there any places on the web that would be recommended to buy from?

Get it sorted before it breaks altogether cos the car won't move at all!

GTE

I sent it in today.

Followed the advice here and gave them a list of things to do:
- Find out whats causing the noises and fix
- Check the steering cause its a little off and fix
- A free check over of the rest of the car was offered and call me with a report so I can give the go ahead.

I said the oil was fine, and it is. Only a few thousand miles since the last change. Ill do a change myself and at some point in the next while do a coolant flush to get some G12 back in the system, but thats not needed for a fairly long while yet.

I miss my car, I got a Panda as a courtesy car. I love the short gear change but Id say Im about a foot too tall for it

Thanks all

GTE

Disaster on the money front.

According to the man who called the following needs replacing:

Two upper shock mounts.
Two tie rod things
I think a wishbone thing on the drivers side.

I cant remember the exact names but the parts come up to 201 euro plus VAT and labour is 240 or 340, I think its 340.

They cant get the work done in time for when I need the car this week and he said it wont stop me from driving the car so Im collecting it again and Ill sort it out next week when free, and after I can get some advice because it seems like a lot. Ill get a list from the dealer of what needs doing.

GTE

Back from holiday and I have the list of things that need doing.

Two front shock mount tops
Two front wishbone bushes
One RHF tie rod end (inner).

VW will do it for 583 euro and the local Citroen garage will do it for 375.
I was going to get the brake pads checked also. Is 375 a good price? They are expensive enough in the past and a few locals don't think they are great on the price front. Much better then VW though.

Would the parts used be of a lesser quality? As in non OEM?

Esel

With your car, I would find a reliable independent mechanic and tell him to use spurious parts, if available. Get a quote before authorising the work, obviously. You should be pleasantly surprised.

Spurious (non-OEM) parts should be perfectly acceptable, and a fair bit cheaper.

GTE

esel wrote: »

With your car, I would find a reliable independent mechanic and tell him to use spurious parts, if available. Get a quote before authorising the work, obviously. You should be pleasantly surprised.

Spurious (non-OEM) parts should be perfectly acceptable, and a fair bit cheaper.

Thanks for that. I forgot about the bank holiday and Im only back from holiday myself last Saturday so I dont have the time to find a mechanic locally. I need the car badly this Saturday onwards and the noises are getting more frequent and obvious.

The one local guy I do know of messed up my brothers car. Said he replaced the brake pads and then they are gone 1000km later. So he didnt do that and also there is also a huge knocking from the steering rack.

Checking MicksGarage the prices for most of the parts are very cheap but I couldnt find the shock mounts, I didnt know what I was looking for. I can only imagine that getting the shock mounts into the car would be a lot of work. Between x, y and z I forced myself into a time corner with this one but I guess a 200 hundred euro saving is decent enough to start with. I may have been able to get more off if I could shop around.

Im very very interested in finding a very good reputable mechanic in Belfast as Im moving there in September for college.

The car will be in the Citroen garage in a while to get a list of what needs doing to confirm required parts. Ill get a the quote before deciding to book it in or not.

Thanks all

nogoodnamesleft

bbk wrote: »

Thanks for that. I forgot about the bank holiday and Im only back from holiday myself last Saturday so I dont have the time to find a mechanic locally. I need the car badly this Saturday onwards and the noises are getting more frequent and obvious.

The one local guy I do know of messed up my brothers car. Said he replaced the brake pads and then they are gone 1000km later. So he didnt do that and also there is also a huge knocking from the steering rack.

Checking MicksGarage the prices for most of the parts are very cheap but I couldnt find the shock mounts, I didnt know what I was looking for. I can only imagine that getting the shock mounts into the car would be a lot of work. Between x, y and z I forced myself into a time corner with this one but I guess a 200 hundred euro saving is decent enough to start with. I may have been able to get more off if I could shop around.

Im very very interested in finding a very good reputable mechanic in Belfast as Im moving there in September for college.

The car will be in the Citroen garage in a while to get a list of what needs doing to confirm required parts. Ill get a the quote before deciding to book it in or not.

Thanks all

I found micks garage extremely expensive when I went looking for part for my car. Otto car parts was one of the best places when looking for VAG parts got a few things off them that motor factors wouldnt have.
Bought anti roll bar links and bushes off this crowd in the UK they were cheaper than what I would source in ireland even after shipping. Double check the parts spec regards you car thou as VAG constantly update parts (numbers, spec etc).


http://www.vwspares.co.uk/