Insulate sitting room ceiling & tongue & groove options

slave1

Lads,

I have the ceiling taken down in my sitting room as I want to replace it with a tongue and groove ceiling.
Q. Any harm in putting in insulation before I T&G? Above the room is two bedrooms.

Also, I plan on T&G the walls also as I'm installing a lot of cabling (Cat6e and speakers) but the only T&G I can find is pine. Any other T&G options out there.

Thanks in advance
S1

AckwelFoley

slave1 wrote: »

Any other T&G options out there.

Thanks in advance
S1

Realistically, no. Red deal is also available, but after that its expensive in hardwood.

Is it thermal or sound insulation you want? Thermal i presume?

slave1

Thermal, it's for a home cinema/sitting room but heat retention is the priority, sound less so

RKQ

You could double slab the ceiling for improved sound insulation. It would also be much safer from a fire safety point of view.

Either remove the existing slab, install insulation, mark joist positions on walls, double-slab ceiling & then install t&g boarding or slab over existing ceiling & then install t&g boarding.

slave1

I'll throw up a photo later on, wasn't really looking at putting slabs back up to be honest, just insulation, battens and then T&G.
I'm also open to panelling the walls if I can source the stuff

dathi

you will have to put back up the plasterboard slab before you use the t and g sheeting the slab was there to give the room above it 1/2 hour fire rating if you have a fire in the room there will be nothing to prevent it from spreading to the upstairs

slave1

Fair comments on the safety, looks like my arms will suffer some plasterboards then....just in case any more comments are forthcoming please find two images below, you can see some gaps between the rafters and blockwork which I intend filling with expanding foam 'stuff'.
Any other comments/advice?

ricman

RE double slab ,what does that mean? WHAT material is used ,is it fire retardent?I assume you mean 2 layers of material ,or plasterboard.
i, ll be putting on new ceilings , probably with insulation over the plaster.
IS there plasterboard that has insulation built in.
i just have bare timber ,as in picture above.I,D like to put in heat insulation and some layer of sound insulation too ,over the plasterboard.

RKQ

ricman wrote: »

RE double slab ,what does that mean? WHAT material is used ,is it fire retardent?I assume you mean 2 layers of material ,or plasterboard.

Yes double-slab means 2 layers of ordinary plasterboard slabs, 9.5mm or 12mm thick. The slabs are lapped over the 1st layer, so slab joins are overlapped.
Plasterboard is fire retardent but double-slabbing also really improves sound proofing. Use 100mm thick glass fibre or Rockwool Flexi, friction fitted between joists for sound & heat insulation. Rockwool is a bit more expensive but ius easier to work with - less irritating to skin & eyes (as you installed it over your head).

ricman wrote: »

IS there plasterboard that has insulation built in.
i just have bare timber ,as in picture above.I,D like to put in heat insulation and some layer of sound insulation too ,over the plasterboard.

Yes, slabs come bonded (glued) to insulation but IMO the above spec is better for sound & heat insulation. Consider also the thickness of insulated slab on your joists, reduces your ceiling height. 2.4m is the recommended minimum ceiling height.

Addisonn

Hello,
We are adding a new sunroom to our home and would like to put knotty pine on the vaulted ceiling. The room is 12WX18long. Ceiling is 15 foot high and walls are 10 foot high.
I was hoping someone could give me some helpful information on installation. We don't want to pay expense of "pre-finished" so we thought we would go to a lumber yard to buy the knotty pine. I was interested if any one had any ideas on length size since the longest I can find is 12 foot long. Therefore we are going to have to cut and piece. Has anyone done this? Which width is better 4 6 or 8 inches.
roofing contractors

ricman

go for 8 inches ,reduce the amount of pieces you need make s the job simpler .Perhaps you could buy a diy book ,and a book on basic carpentry.How are the wood planks supported ,
see here
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/roof_trusses.php

RKQ

Addisonn wrote: »

We don't want to pay expense of "pre-finished" so we thought we would go to a lumber yard to buy the knotty pine. I was interested if any one had any ideas on length size since the longest I can find is 12 foot long.

Going to the lumber yard may be a bad idea as the pine is unlikely to be dry. Damp "fresh" timber will shrink as it dries out in an internal space - resulting in gaps & splits in the boards.

Prefinished pine is relatively cheap. Compare local hardward with Retail hardward store like B&Q etc, shop around.

Addisonn wrote: »

Which width is better 4 6 or 8 inches.

2 or 3 inch is usually used on ceilings. (50mm or 75mm wide t&g boards) usually 2.4 or 8ft long. It may be possible to get it in 16ft lengths. The longer the board the greater the chance in will sag in the store.

The thinner board looks better at the apex or ridge and also makes the ceiling seem higher.

dathi

have to agree with rk 8" timber is to wide to use as it dries it will shrink and leave big gaps between the boards another thing to consider which most people forget is to put insulated plasterboards on the original wall between the house and the new sun room on the sun room side this is to stop thermal bridging on the wall ie. to stop the heat traveling up the block work in the sun room and straight out side because when you add a sun room you effectually put an external wall into your house