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VSR 10 Spring upgrade

  • 24-06-2010 8:33pm
    #1
    MacAonghusa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 954 ✭✭✭


    Lads, upgraded a TM vsr 10 gspec spring to a PDI 110. It seems to be shooting around 0.81J.
    I initially thought air leak might be the problem but it's very consistent. Any idea what could be happening? :(


Comments

  • #2
    Masada
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 11,001 ✭✭✭✭Masada


    Is the spring too thick for the piston? it might be getting coiled up and sticky inside the piston when you cock it, causing it not to release with as much force as it should do.
    I've not seen it with the TM in particular but have with BAR10s in the past. :)


  • #3
    MacAonghusa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 954 ✭✭✭MacAonghusa


    Masada wrote: »
    Is the spring too thick for the piston? it might be getting coiled up and sticky inside the piston when you cock it, causing it not to release with as much force as it should do.
    I've not seen it with the TM in particular but have with BAR10s in the past. :)

    Thanks for the feedback.
    It seems to be functioning fine; the spring is designed for that gun so I wouldn't expect any problems.
    Maybe it's just a stronger spring I need :o


  • #4
    Puding
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,261 ✭✭✭Puding


    you say your upgrading the tm vsr, did you drill out the pin on the cylinder to remove the head yourself?


  • #5
    MacAonghusa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 954 ✭✭✭MacAonghusa


    Puding wrote: »
    you say your upgrading the tm vsr, did you drill out the pin on the cylinder to remove the head yourself?

    Yeah. Probably drilled a bit too deep but the head & cylinder looks ok. Added ptfe tape when putting it back in to ensure it seals right.


  • #6
    Puding
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,261 ✭✭✭Puding


    from experience i;ve found it hard to get a good seal back after drilling out that pin i would always replace the cylinder head at the least and the body and head if possible


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  • #7
    MacAonghusa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 954 ✭✭✭MacAonghusa


    Puding wrote: »
    from experience i;ve found it hard to get a good seal back after drilling out that pin i would always replace the cylinder head at the least and the body and head if possible

    Thx for the info.
    By body and head, what do you mean? Would replacing the cylinder head not be sufficient?


  • #8
    Puding
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,261 ✭✭✭Puding


    MacAonghusa wrote: »
    Thx for the info.
    By body and head, what do you mean? Would replacing the cylinder head not be sufficient?

    yes it should be as long as the hole on the cylinder is clean and debured, i just generally replace the lot when i do something like that might just be me :P


  • #9
    MacAonghusa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 954 ✭✭✭MacAonghusa


    Puding wrote: »
    yes it should be as long as the hole on the cylinder is clean and debured, i just generally replace the lot when i do something like that might just be me :P

    :)
    ok thanks.


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