Car Self Service/Maintenance

irishmotorist

First - apologies. I'm sure this has been covered before but I can't find much in the search. Any direction is appreciated.

Can anybody give me any recommendations regarding servicing the 'easy' elements of my car. I have a 2002 320d and recently had a few things done with it. One thing that struck me when looking over the bill was that the oil change cost me about €100. I've never gotten too involved with car maintanance, but this is something that I'm sure I could manage with the right tools and know-how. I'd still take it to the experts regularly, but I'd like to cut down on the cost of things that I could easily do myself.

Things that spring to mind are:

• I'd like to know what specific tools I'd need - i.e. jack/ramps etc. What should I be looking at here? How can I best take care of my own safety?
• What else would be similarly 'easy' that I could consider for myself - air filter, oil filter, various coolants/fluids?
• What resources could be recommended. Haynes manual? Any Internet resources? Should I get on a Beginners Car Maintenance course?

Does the fact that I'm asking these kind of questions indicate that I need to learn a lot before I start these things or have I just been lazy about a relatively simple thing all along?

Umiq88

Oil Change

Tools
Bucket
13mm socket (pos 15mm)
Oil (funnel would help)

Method
Jack up car evenly to provide access make sure car is level so oil will run out.
Also make sure car has just been run as warmer oil will flow out much better. Make sure its not to hot so you won't get scalded (check gauge on dash).

Remove the plug/stud on the sump with the rachet and drain the old oil into the bucket.

Remove the oil filter.

Add new oil filter. Dip your finger in the old oil and run it over the seal on the new filter before fitting.

Replace the plug in the sump when all the oil has drained.

Remove the oil cap and fill with oil. The manual will tell you how much but you can check it on the dipstick.

Let your car down until level and run the engine making sure the oil pressure light goes out. This will also fill the filter giving you a true indication of the level.

Check the level and top up as required.

*Note its a good idea to always go a little less that what the manual says and fill up to that level.



There's a few other things to watch out for but thats the basics. Also I would always change the air filter at the same time.

Once changing the oil regularly I would only see a need to bring the car into a dealership every 20-30k miles as long as the car is driving fine and obvious things like suspension, tyres and timing belts are ok.

Atlantic Dawn

Oil/oil filter change, air filter, pollen filter, fluids, spark plugs are all relatively easy once you take your time. I would recommend reading a Haynes manual and check out some videos people have on youtube for various models. It's also a good idea to join some forums on the web for your particular model of car as they will usually have decent How To sections with guides on doing basic jobs.

I've changed all the above but have not yet managed to change brake fliud, coolant or power steering fluid but they will be my next jobs to take on.

WheresMyCamera?

psittacosis wrote: »

Oil Change

Tools
Bucket
13mm socket (pos 15mm)
Oil (funnel would help)

Method
Jack up car evenly to provide access make sure car is level so oil will run out.

If your jacking the car up make sure you have wheel chocks and Axel stands. Could save your life.


Here's a pretty good guide. Written for the complete novice and I'm sure the same procedure applies to most cars......
Oil Change on an american Hyundai Coupe

af_thefragile

Get the Haynes manual for your car and you should be sorted.

irishmotorist

psittacosis wrote: »

Oil Change

Tools
...
13mm socket (pos 15mm)
....

Should I use a torque wrench for this kind of thing? Are these screws any way delicate or is it just 'good and tight' when retightening?

WheresMyCamera? wrote: »

If your jacking the car up make sure you have wheel chocks and Axel stands. Could save your life.

A quick google for Axle Stands shows this:
http://www.irishautoparts.ie/tools/axle-stands.html
Obviously I get a set appropriate for the weight of the car, but am I right in thinking that the axel stands will raise the car and the chocks will prevent possibility of rolling back or forwards? Will these type of axle stands raise the car or do they support a car raised by another means? Also, where do they contact the car? Is it the point at the edge where the jack for changing a wheel connects or is it actually under the car at the wheel axle (I know the clue is probably in the name, but just want to be sure...)

eire1990

yuo should get the Haynes manual there a great thing to have all the info need and gives you an indication on level of diffculty of the job

dylbert

eire1990 wrote: »

yuo should get the Haynes manual there a great thing to have all the info need and gives you an indication on level of difficulty of the job

Yep, Haynes manuals are great, really easy to understand. Thats how I started, once you do a few oil changes your confidence working around an engine will build, then move onto other jobs like brakes, most general car maintenance is pretty straight forward once you take your time.

R.O.R

Check out this very useful thread by Volvoboy

http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055422868

Link was in the charter sticky - lots of useful info in there

Captain Slow IRL

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

.............spark plugs..........

They shouldn't be an issue for the op!

You'll also need to add an oil separator (or breather) when you're replacing your air filter. The air filter requires a lot of stripping to access - you'll need to take out the pollen filter housing, the engine cover and air ducting. The air filter housing can be difficult to put back, you have to make sure it's seated right or you won't be able to secure the lower rearb bolt.

If it's the older M47 engine (136bhp), you should be able to do everything from the top - the fuel filter is easily accessable in passenger side of the engine bay. On the newer M47TU (150bhp) engined cars, the fuel filter is underneath the car, directly below the passenger seat.

To do a full service, you'd need:
17mm spanner/socket for sump bung,
32mm spanner/socket for oil filter housing,
5mm allen key for engine covering/air filter housing, and oil seperator housing
30 torx socket for pollen filter housing
Waterpump wrench/mole grips for fuel filter (on M47 engine fuel filter)
5 to 5.5 litres of fully synthetic oil.
I may have left something out, but this should be all the major pieces!

irishmotorist

dylbert wrote: »

Yep, Haynes manuals are great, really easy to understand. Thats how I started, once you do a few oil changes your confidence working around an engine will build, then move onto other jobs like brakes, most general car maintenance is pretty straight forward once you take your time.

It all seems quite achievable so, like you say, I can see the confidence coming once I get started.

R.O.R wrote: »

Check out this very useful thread by Volvoboy

http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055422868

Link was in the charter sticky - lots of useful info in there

It won't let me see this...not too sure why

you do not have permission to access this page

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

They shouldn't be an issue for the op!

Worth bearing in mind for the mrs car though.

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

You'll also need to add an oil separator (or breather) when you're replacing your air filter. The air filter requires a lot of stripping to access - you'll need to take out the pollen filter housing, the engine cover and air ducting. The air filter housing can be difficult to put back, you have to make sure it's seated right or you won't be able to secure the lower rearb bolt.

If it's the older M47 engine (136bhp), you should be able to do everything from the top - the fuel filter is easily accessable in passenger side of the engine bay. On the newer M47TU (150bhp) engined cars, the fuel filter is underneath the car, directly below the passenger seat.

To do a full service, you'd need:
17mm spanner/socket for sump bung,
32mm spanner/socket for oil filter housing,
5mm allen key for engine covering/air filter housing, and oil seperator housing
30 torx socket for pollen filter housing
Waterpump wrench/mole grips for fuel filter (on M47 engine fuel filter)
5 to 5.5 litres of fully synthetic oil.
I may have left something out, but this should be all the major pieces!

Fountain of knowledge. You've obviously seen one of these before! It's the newer model, so that's good to know.

R.O.R

irishmotorist wrote: »

It won't let me see this...not too sure why

Oops - my bad. It's been moved to the Motors Tech Help forum which you need to request access to.

There is a thread on the first page in motors to request access.

It's worth getting access as that thread is very comprehensive.

Turner

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e46

Captain Slow IRL

irishmotorist wrote: »

...........Fountain of knowledge. You've obviously seen one of these before! It's the newer model, so that's good to know.

I've done one or two:) If you want to keep it as original as possible, you should be able to pick up an Insp 2 value service kit at a main dealer, this'll include an oil, air, fuel and pollen filter - there's feck all price difference between this and a similiar kit from a motor factors.

The oil seperator will have to be gotten at the main dealers, don't think you can get a spurious one (costs about €50)

Voodoomelon

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

I've changed all the above but have not yet managed to change brake fliud, coolant or power steering fluid but they will be my next jobs to take on.

If you can do the others, you can do the coolant and brake fluid no problem. They're just both pains in the ass.

ShiresV2

When it comes to stuff that lives depend on (like brakes), you should be completely confident and know what to look out for when operating on those systems. So do your research and learning . If not take it to a mechanic for that stuff. Good luck!

irishmotorist

I've had a look on the Haynes site and can't find any that are specific for a 02 320d. I can see a 3 Series Petrol for 98-03 and a 3 Series Petrol & Diesel for 05 to 08. Does anybody have this or know if it exists?

Zorba

I'm looking for a Haynes manual for Mazda 6 and can't find one anywhere, surely they should have published one by now ?

Took me 2 weeks to figure out how to change the fuel filter on my car that's even searching web forums, i'm sure if i had a Haynes manual i could've done it in 5 mins.