Advice on made-to-measure suit before 5pm if possible

surfjunky

Hi there,
I have an appointment with Louis Copeland’s at 5pm today. I’m getting a suit made-to-measure (not bespoke) for my own wedding in the summer. I’ll be going for a black day suit (normal suit, no tails, no waist coats). I’m very tall and skinny, I’m looking for something classic (i.e. won’t date too quickly) but quite fitted. I’m new to this, I usually buy off the rack and I’m sure the tailor in Louis Copeland will be able to talk me through it but I’d thought I’d throw it open to the good people in the F&A to offer any advice/suggestions before I head into it.
One piece of advice a friend gave me was to make sure the buttons on the cuff were open-able (not sure why though).
Thanks.

OldGoat

Working cuffs are an indicator of the quality put into tailoring the jacket. It an indicator that the jacket is hand made rather then machine finished. It also makes wearing french cuff shirts so much better as you can give the cuffs a litttle extra room. Hand stiching on the finish (lapels, pocket flaps) etc., is another. Not always necessary but a lovely finishing nice touch.
The 'fit' of the jacket will be done by the tailor. I'm not a fan of the SlimFit look in suits myself, prefering the broader classic cut. IMO the slimfit trend suit makes the wearer look like he's put on a suit he bought when he was 16 and has longsince outgrown it. Even when it's measured properly I always get the impression the the legs and cuffs are too short and the buttons are straining to stay closed. Also the shortage of material in the cut makes altering it at a later time neigh on impossible.
Avoid anything with super wide or super narrow lapels. Nothing dates a suit quicker then the width of the lepel.

surfjunky

Thanks for the advice OG, will take that on board today, esp about hand finishings. WRT to your opinion on close fitting suits, is that still the case for someone, like me, who is 6ft4 and very skinny, without a close fit I think I'll feel like I'm wearing a potatoe sack instead of a suit! I wouldn't be looking for wetsuit like tightness just something that is a little more snug.

OldGoat

Personal taste here but I think a slimfit will just make you look like a beanpole by exagerating your narrow silloette. A classic cut will give you a much better filled out and balanced look.
pester the tailor with questions no matter how trivial they seem to you. It's his job. When he recomends a jacket for you ask him WHY he picked that one.

surfjunky

Cheers OG, I will pester with gusto.

OldGoat

Let us know how you got on.

surfjunky

Okay, so went in and tried the slim-fit 'blank' first and to was just way to tight across my quads and arse; looked like I was wearing a wetsuit, so tried the classic two-button 'blank' (not using right terms here) until I got a proper fit across the shoulder and the leg fit was much better too, the tailor pinned in the back to show how he'd give more shape in the waist and back, the jacket lenght, sleeve length and leg length will all be dropped. He recommended a particular black material, checked the others out and went with his suggestion. Went for two slanted pockets, medium lapel width, picked out a funky linking and undercollar fabric and great oyster-coloured buttons, working cuffs with spaced out (non-kissing buttons). Felt tailor had a lot of good advice and steered me along the path of something elegant, understated, not too trendy that will stand the test of time. Would like to say i relaxed and enjoyed it but knowing I was dropping more money on a single item of clothing than I've ever done before made me a bit nervous to get it right. Will be back in for second fitting in around 5 weeks time. Thanks for all the advice OG.

OldGoat

I know it's a big chunk of change to hand out but you are buying something that, with care, will last you a lifetime. Thats value for money. Delighted to hear you went for a classic suit rather then the slim fit. A couple of darts stiched into the back will give you the shape you want and then as the years pass and the beer gut grows the darts can be removed giving you more breathing space. :rolleyes:

Now it's all about the accessories.
Don't ruin a good suit with cheap shoes.
Buy a few shirts from a shirtmaker.
Ask the tailor to stich brace buttons into the waistband of your trousers.
Discover the joy of cufflink collecting (:cool:).
Learn the four basic necktie knots - or at least 2 of them at the very least (Full Windsor and four-in-hand).
Try not to carry stuff in your suit pockets as that will ruin the drape of your suit quicker then anything else.

All that and so much more.

surfjunky

Good tip on the brace buttons, must add that into the requests. I was going to just go with Louis Copeland for the shirts and tie too as they've had some pretty good suggestions wrt tieing it in with Bride's outfit (colour etc) and I'm hoping I can haggle a bit on these considering I'm buying the suit there too. Thanks for all the advice