grading a climb

backlashs

what is the best way of grading a route

would you grade a route vd if it had a lot of big holds and almost and one could acend it?

Sev

I don't quite understand the question, typo?

Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_grade#British

It explains all.

There are many systems for grading climbing routes, in Ireland we primarily use the British trad system for outdoor trad routes but French (sport) grades for indoor walls.

Climbing grades are generally based entirely on some intuitive and subjective notion of difficulty.

backlashs

lol sorry about my bad explaining what i mean is how do you distinguish between say a Severe and a Hard severe for example

adagio

:DHey Op...
There are a few reasons for deciding upon a grade for a particular climb (single pitch - for arguments sake). All grades are only applicable when the route is led, as apposed to top-roping/bottom-roping/use of bouldering mat.

1. The most difficult move - for instance VS 4c possibly could make it's way into becoming a HVS if the most difficult move were 5a or it could become a HS if the most difficult move were 3c.
2. The availability of protection on the route. The less protection the more difficult the route becomes, not necessarily in terms of increased physical exertion but in terms of the psychological aspect. Lead a VD route then think about soloing it and all of a sudden you begin to appreciated the link between psychology and physicality.

Usually the pioneer of a route will give it a grade and then it either holds the original grading or the grade is changed (lower/higher) when people climb the route and give their considered opinion over a period of time.

Check out climbing.ie for threads on this topic.
A.

backlashs

cool thanks thats great kinda get how its done now