Grinding in back wheel

Agricola

Ok, this is a problem ive had for a couple of weeks now and cant seem to sort it. Maybe someone will have some ideas....

I have 94 bmw (e36) which has this grinding sound in one of the back wheels. The bering has been replaced around a year ago and I have'nt put massive miles on it since. Theres no play whatsoever in the wheel to indicate that there is a bering problem anyway. When I jack up the car and drive the wheel, theres no whining that you would normally get with a bad bering.

Ive taken off the hub, theres no stones/debris caught in between it and the heat shield, and theres no real sign of any metal on metal wear anywhere in that general area.
When driving, it sounds just like an old train on a track, you know that clack-clack, clack-clack. It seems to worsen when you put the foot down and if you coast to a halt with no pedal, it more or less goes. Which has me wondering is it something to do with the drive in the back axle....

Ive had it with a good mechanic who I know well, and he assumed it was a bering too. He tightened the nut in the centre of the hub to the right torque rating and the noise did seem to stop, but now its back again. And the nut is still in the exact same position, so it hasnt loosened.

Im stuck on this one. Can anyone help?

Mr Benevolent

Google points to rear CV joint, but it could be the parking brake assembly. Unlikely to be the wheel bearing though.

rebel.ranter

The bearing could be gone even though you have replaced it already. I had to replace a bearing about 2 years after I had originally replaced it.
a spurious part was used the first time. I got an OEM BMW bearing the second time around. Funnily enough the first time round it was very noticeable that it was the bearing that was gone but the second time we were very puzzled & were suspecting the CV joints, etc.
All is fine now.

Emoyeni

This does sound like a brake related noise and probably the parking brake as mentioned above, it might not be disengaging completely, and is mostly resolved by tightening/adjusting the cable/springs.

Drive slowly for a few hundred feet with the handbrake up and see if the noise is worse.

peasant

"clack-clack" noise is typical for a CV joint on its way out.

Sooner or later it'll go "clonk" and you'll be left with no drive to the wheels

Agricola

rebel.ranter wrote: »

The bearing could be gone even though you have replaced it already. I had to replace a bearing about 2 years after I had originally replaced it.
a spurious part was used the first time. I got an OEM BMW bearing the second time around. Funnily enough the first time round it was very noticeable that it was the bearing that was gone but the second time we were very puzzled & were suspecting the CV joints, etc.
All is fine now.

The second time you changed it, did you notice play in the wheel when jacked up? Or did it seem ok? Someone mentioned to me that if the bering wasnt centred properly going in, it might show up with the noise im getting now.

I had a similar issue with a fan belt. Bought a spurious belt and ended up with terrible belt screeching untill I got what seemed to be the EXACT same belt, but from BMW, and the problem was solved straight away. Maybe this could be the same.........

rebel.ranter

@ Agricola The only discernible indication of a potential worn bearing the second time round was the noise. There was no play in the wheel at all. If you are getting an OEM bearing they are €60 for the e36, you should also get the lock nut as it is only €6.

Collar nut: 33 41 1 132 565
Angular contact ball bearing, radial 33 41 1 130 617 (Rear Disc)

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Cabrio/Europe/320i-M52/RHD/M/1996/july/browse/rear_axle/side_shaft_wheel_bearings/



@peasant I don't think the clackity-clack noise would be as prevalent in a rear wheel drive CV joint as it does not move through as great an angle of movement as in a front wheel drive. The one time I heard one going in a friend's car it was more of a rumbling, of course we may have spotted it at an early stage too.

peasant

rebel.ranter wrote: »

@peasant I don't think the clackity-clack noise would be as prevalent in a rear wheel drive CV joint as it does not move through as great an angle of movement as in a front wheel drive. The one time I heard one going in a friend's car it was more of a rumbling, of course we may have spotted it at an early stage too.

If the cage is already broken and one or more balls are moving freely (and being ground up in the process), you'll get a nice clackety-clack, particularly when the joint is under load.

worth inspecting anyway

rebel.ranter

peasant wrote: »

worth inspecting anyway

Definitely.

Agricola

Ive been reading about CV joints here and it does seem thats that is the problem. Especially since it occurs when accelerating, decelerating, when the weight of the car is on the wheel etc. The normal wheel bearing symptoms just arent here.
Im going to check this out today to see what i can find out. Thanks for the info.

btw, if the joint has to be replaced, could anyone hazzard a guess as to what a new oem part would cost? Is a breakers yard a better option?

peasant

No idea about BMW prices but I gess that 100 -150 euro (possibly less) should buy the part at GSF or other motor factors.

Labour to change it shouldn't cost the world either.

No point in getting a second hand CV joint, you'll never know how long that might last.

rebel.ranter

here are some indicative prices of the parts in question:

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Cabrio/Europe/320i-M52/RHD/M/1996/july/browse/rear_axle/output_shaft/

If you need the whole shaft you're talking about ~€300, there are repair kits for less than €50-€60 from the dealer.
You might save a few quid going to Otto parts:

http://www.otto.ie

Agricola

Hi lads,

Just to let you know it turns out the problem is the hub itself. The CV joint is perfect, the bearing seemed ok, but the issue was the bearing was wobbling on the hub. The last mechanic who changed the bearing had it knurled in order to buff it up to an even surface before fitting the bearing. Well the effect wore off over the last 2 years and the surface was heavily scored/dented, with the result the bearing was moving and wasnt rock solid as it should be. I suppose because the bearing itself was fine, it never showed the usual symptoms of being shot.

Anyway, ive gotten a new bearing and lock nut and may have to order a new hub if I cant source a good quality second hand one.