partially trained springer

EastTyrone

well, my cousin got a partialy trained springer spaniel. It will retrieve to hand sort of qaurter and do most of the basics. We had it out over land with loads of rabbits and when she got there she got excited and just ran with the scent. How can we manage to get her stoped when we want while out hunting?

terminator2

it sounds like you are introducing her to live game before you have the basics sorted out ......ie who is in command

EastTyrone

terminator2 wrote: »

it sounds like you are introducing her to live game before you have the basics sorted out ......ie who is in command

ok so what way can we rectify that, just get her used to dummies and all first with the new owner?

deeksofdoom

You need to get the basics right first. The stop or sit command is the one you need to know to teach the dog. The reason the sit command is the same as the stop command is because the dog has to stop to sit.

Are you using a whistle?

EastTyrone

ive sit done with her but she wont stop wile out hunting, just bogs the head down and smells away. no not atm but am considering moving her to it,.

deeksofdoom

A whistle is a very important piece of equipment its time to stop considering and get yourself one its more important than a lead. Get yourself an acme 210½ or something similar, instead of saying sit on its own, give the dog one pip on the whistle. and raise your hand as if giving 'the nazi sieg heil'. The dog will start to associate the command sit, pip on the whistle and the hand signal with sitting. After a while stop saying sit and just pip the whistle and raise your hand. The dog will start to sit when its way from you aswell as sitting it will stop aswell, naturally enough.

If your serious about the whistle commands you would want the dog coming back to the recal before you start.

What you'ld really want to do is get some dog obedience classes because I could be postng here for ever and you still wouldn't be getting anywhere with the dog.

SpringerF

Many people would be envious of your situation.

Now you know your dog will hunt you need to steady her , you must do this with regard to having no negative effect on her hunting ability, style or speed.

1. Walk her on a lead from now on.

2. Occasionally command her to sit while you stand beside her, while she is on the lead. She should sit immediatley you command her to. If she does not, simply encourage her to do so by pushing her down onto her haunches and lavishly praising her every time she does right.

No praise when she does wrong

Simply correct the wrong doing and when completed correctly, lavish praise.

When she sits every time beside you on command it will be time for lesson 2

Of course I am presuming the dog has settled in to her new home.

This can be determined by watching the dog and seeing is she now happy with her surroundings. Playing with the kids and you, wagging the tail when you approach, general excitment when you approach,eating well, sleeping all night the usual things.

elius

Lads im have a problem with my dog on the whistle (210..1/2) She only seems to respond to her name. Ive tried blowing the whistle and call her name for the last couple of weeks but it seldom works with just the whistle and i always end up calling her back buy name. Any idea's?

SpringerF

have you tried any other whistles.
If not go into a toy shop buy a tuppenny LOUD whistle and try that.

or

If your dog is steady to the drop.

Walk out with your dog, drop him.
Walk away 10 paces backwards if neccessary keeping the dog on the drop of course.

Whistle in the mouth, look at the dog, dog is looking at you (hopefully).
If not remain calm and wait until dog looks at you.......immediatley he looks at you pip pip.................Try that one.

Otherwise.... well, we would have to go back further.

Stay calm

irish setter

teach her the drop, it will take longer to do if basics not already installed
elius. call her in by name and while she is coming in blow your recall till she gets to you, a series of short pips, then treat her. repeat till she associates a series of short pips with treats and gradually exchange treats with praise

SpringerF

In my opinion treats should be reserved for difficult situations.
For when introducing treats to the training schedule you are introducing something what will later have to be trained out.

Treats can also lead to retrieving issues. With dogs often refusing to retrieve to hand. By this I mean that a dog coming to you with a bird.... you put out your hand to accept the bird and the dog spits the bird on the ground expecting a treat. This can and does happen.

It has always been my policy to have the least amount of training to achieve the desired result

irish setter

SpringerF wrote: »

In my opinion treats should be reserved for difficult situations.
For when introducing treats to the training schedule you are introducing something what will later have to be trained out.

Treats can also lead to retrieving issues. With dogs often refusing to retrieve to hand. By this I mean that a dog coming to you with a bird.... you put out your hand to accept the bird and the dog spits the bird on the ground expecting a treat. This can and does happen.

It has always been my policy to have the least amount of training to achieve the desired result

treats are fine when your training programme is not based around treats. we are talking association here and for a very short period. you want the dog to associate the recall with something good and the best way to start is through his stomach. it's only for a short period and is easily and quickly replaced with praise. in an ideal world all dogs can be trained the same way and will react the same way but in reality sometimes you have to think outside the box.

cavan shooter

I had my dog out last week after a break of about 1 month (dont panic he has the run of the house) he was a wee bit excited, but I fixed him by calling him up and putting him into the ditch (as in go ditch and point)

eventually he settled and hunted as normal, had him out yesterday and he was fine. Theyre like kids theyll try get away with what they want to do.:rolleyes:

deeksofdoom

elius wrote: »

Lads im have a problem with my dog on the whistle (210..1/2) She only seems to respond to her name. Ive tried blowing the whistle and call her name for the last couple of weeks but it seldom works with just the whistle and i always end up calling her back buy name. Any idea's?

Consistency.... that is your problem your not being consistent. Every time you call the dog it should come back to you, if it doesn't run out and pick it up by the scruff of the neck and bring it back to where you called it from. Remember also if you find yourself in a situation where you are about to give a command where you don't think the dog is going to obey as it has been distracted by something else, then don't give the command.

Your problem now is that when you pip on the whistle the dog has learned to ignore it. You need to start from scratch again, try the dog in the garden where it can't get away from you, use a treat to call the dog with the whistle and when it comes back to you praise it, and give it a treat. When your calling the dog for its dinner use the whistle.

It will begin to associate the whistle with food and being praised, but remember train your dog when its hungry before its meal. Dog will generally respond to training with treats better when the have an empty stomach, if they're full they aren't going to respond aswell as they aren't hungry.

Stick with the whistle you have trying other types of whistles is a waste of time.

Another useful item is a retractable lead I have a 25metre lead that I use to teach a young dog to recall, leave the lead out blow the recall and if the dog doesn't come back immediately a tug on the lead will suffice.

irish setter

deeksofdoom wrote: »

Consistency.... that is your problem your not being consistent. Every time you call the dog it should come back to you, if it doesn't run out and pick it up by the scruff of the neck and bring it back to where you called it from. Remember also if you find yourself in a situation where you are about to give a command where you don't think the dog is going to obey as it has been distracted by something else, then don't give the command.

Your problem now is that when you pip on the whistle the dog has learned to ignore it. You need to start from scratch again, try the dog in the garden where it can't get away from you, use a treat to call the dog with the whistle and when it comes back to you praise it, and give it a treat. When your calling the dog for its dinner use the whistle.

It will begin to associate the whistle with food and being praised, but remember train your dog when its hungry before its meal. Dog will generally respond to training with treats better when the have an empty stomach, if they're full they aren't going to respond aswell as they aren't hungry.

Stick with the whistle you have trying other types of whistles is a waste of time.

Another useful item is a retractable lead I have a 25metre lead that I use to teach a young dog to recall, leave the lead out blow the recall and if the dog doesn't come back immediately a tug on the lead will suffice.

good point and along those lines never give a command that you can't follow through on