Tool to remove bottom bracket

nitrogen

I'm heavily confused as to which tool I need to remove/tighten my bottom bracket. I have this Shimano Ultegra groupset.

Will something like this do the job?

Also, if my BB is bust, what are the implications if I continue riding (Ticking sound)?

This is related to a previous post about a ticking sound.

Thanks.

briano

This (or something similar) should do it:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Park_Tools_Hollowtech_II_BB_And_Crank_Arm_Tool/5360013016/#more

I think the other one is for Square Taper BBs

seamus

This is €6 cheaper and does the job fine. I got one free with my BB.

nitrogen

seamus wrote: »

This is €6 cheaper and does the job fine. I got one free with my BB.

Isn't an extra tool needed? So I buy two tools?

Chips Lovell

nitrogen wrote: »

Isn't an extra tool needed? So I buy two tools?

Nope, that's all you need to take off one of those BBs.

DirkVoodoo

You don't have a cartridge bottom bracket, Ultegra 6700 uses either the outboard bearing system or the newer press fit bottom bracket. I'm guessing it's the former, in which case the tool seamus showed is the one you need.

Being 6700 I find it unlikely that the bearings have worn out already, unless you did something really silly to them. If you are worried about creaking then you just need to make sure the cups are tight.

The actual "bottom bracket" is just a hollow shell, newer systems have an axle as part of the driveside crank which the other crank is then threaded onto and tightened. For this you only need some grease and a torque wrench.

Lumen

nitrogen wrote: »

Isn't an extra tool needed? So I buy two tools?

The Park tool also removes Shimano cranks.

As I understand it, all non-Campag threaded BBs need the same type of "hollowtech" tool to remove the BB, but only the Shimano ones need the bit on the end of that Park tool to remove the crank. FSA and SRAM cranks are removed using a normal hex tool (e.g. torque wrench).

edit: I could be completely wrong about the Shimano crank removal as I've never done it.

seamus

nitrogen wrote: »

Isn't an extra tool needed? So I buy two tools?

You're right, you'll also need one of these guys:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3785
I didn't spot that on the Park tool.

That inserts/removes the cap from the left-hand crank.

Overall it works out cheaper, but if you're married to Park tools or you'd prefer to have one tool instead of two, then the park will work fine too.

It depends on the cap - if you have the metal hollow cap (which your Ultegra crankset probably doesn't have), you can just use a flat-bladed knife as a big screwdriver to remove it. But in any case, having the correct tool for the job is less hassle in the long run

DirkVoodoo

Do you mean the little plastic end cap?

Gavin

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10179

This is a good tool, has the hollow techII tool and the adjustment tool for removing/adjusting the compression on the cranks.

Chips Lovell

My BBB one came with the Hollowtech do-dah as well.

Howitzer

I've just done a shimano crank replacement using a similar BBB tool.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40496 was the crank I put in place (Hollowtech).

Sadly in my haste to get it in place I didnt play with the damn thing to see how it works (the crank).

Anyone know where the bearings are? From what I saw it looked like a metal tube rotating freely in a plastic lined tube. Must be some bearings involved in those end caps that said don't disassemble? But I never felt them moving....

Would love to know

Beasty

Howitzer wrote: »

I've just done a shimano crank replacement using a similar BBB tool.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40496 was the crank I put in place (Hollowtech).

Sadly in my haste to get it in place I didnt play with the damn thing to see how it works (the crank).

Anyone know where the bearings are? From what I saw it looked like a metal tube rotating freely in a plastic lined tube. Must be some bearings involved in those end caps that said don't disassemble? But I never felt them moving....

Would love to know

It's all here

Howitzer

great link! thanks. Does the metal inner shaft rest against those revolving inner pieces of the unit shown? Do they move together with no slippage/wear?

Just interested. I'm thrilled with this new setup. Shifted 360grammes off the weight of the bike for cheap money.

Cheers again

seamus

Howitzer wrote: »

great link! thanks. Does the metal inner shaft rest against those revolving inner pieces of the unit shown? Do they move together with no slippage/wear?

Yep. It's a bit disconcerting looking at it, it looks like it's just metal-on-metal everywhere, but it works. There's wear in the bearings naturally, but there should be no wear on the shaft/crank spindle.