How hard is to solder?

corblimey

...cos I kinda want to buy one of these.

seanybiker

thats class. Its easy to solder. If you never done it just take apart something you dont use anymore and practice on that.

CoalBucket

Its easy to solder, I was taught years ago with the big irons that had to be heated in the furnace and had to put the flux on yourself ! The little electric ones are the business, very easy to use. Practice once or twice and no bother

ghostchant

Wow! I want one. Looks like that Mario game that someone posted a while back. Soldering isn't hard, just have to pick up the bits and pieces you need (the actual soldering iron etc)

o1s1n

Soldering isn't too difficult. It's the not burning your fingers I have a problem with

Myrddin

I love the smell of napa...melting solder in the morning

Jack burton

Yeah i burnt my hands a few times but its easy once you get the hang of it, I only did a basic megadrive mod.

hey Enternow do you do megadrive overclocking?

o1s1n

Jack burton wrote: »

hey Enternow do you do megadrive overclocking?

Yeah, any chance man? Turn my Megadrive up to 11 please

Jack burton

I saw a tutorial online but it was a bit too much for me to do on my first outing on modding a system.

Have to make a little board and everything for it :P

amacachi

Soldering is easy enough, though a decent bit of practice first is always advisable. Haven't done a lot of it but don't remember ever burning my finger. :pac:

o1s1n

Jack burton wrote: »

I saw a tutorial online but it was a bit too much for me to do on my first outing on modding a system.

Have to make a little board and everything for it :P

Have you seen the videos of overclocked MDs running Sonic in Debug mode? A screen full of jumping fish and no slowdown.

Or Sonic losing all his rings and no slowdown.

I remember reading a tutorial a while ago and it did seem a little advanced for me alright.

amacachi wrote: »

Soldering is easy enough, though a decent bit of practice first is always advisable. Haven't done a lot of it but don't remember ever burning my finger. :pac:

One time I was wiring up two extra buttons to a JAMMA harness. I was doing it inside the cabinet and it was one of those instances where you really need three hands.

I burned my finger, dropped the iron on the harness and melted a huge chunk out of the plastic.

It was one of those -

'OMFG AHHHHHH! MY FINGER!!!'

/looks down

'OMFG THE IRON IS MELTING THE HARNESS'

/Looks at hand

'AHHH MY ****ING FINGER AHHH!!'

You try to move the burning iron while clutching your hand in agony at the same time. It's not pretty.

Jack burton

o1s1n wrote: »

Have you seen the videos of overclocked MDs running Sonic in Debug mode? A screen full of jumping fish and no slowdown.

Or Sonic losing all his rings and no slowdown.

I remember reading a tutorial a while ago and it did seem a little advanced for me alright.

I'm just after getting a second MD1 " High definition " version so I hope to get that absolutly pimped out, region modded, 60HZ modded and overclocked.

If enternow can do it for me I'll be delighted, if not I'll send it off to someone who is able to do it because I wont be doing this myself and making a balls of it

amacachi

o1s1n wrote: »

You try to move the burning iron while clutching your hand in agony at the same time. It's not pretty.

Aye, was thinking it wouldn't be pleasant. Could just picture myself dropping it on a desk in school and just ****ing off. :pac:

delly

Soldering 'aint too hard to learn and it gets easier the more you do. Back in the nineties when I first became an IT service engineer, I often had to solder 9 way serial connections under bar counters in the near dark, now that was some tricky stuff.

If your looking for recommendations, the link below reviews the current piece of kit I have which runs on butane gas.

http://www.dansdata.com/portasol.htm

CathalDublin

Buy a decent soldering Iron, with the cheap ones the tips are not made from the correct material, Antex make a very affordable one and the different size tips are readily available, Highly recommend Antex(sold them for years in a previous job).
I've a 50W maplin soldering station and a 15W and a 25W Antex and the Antex Irons are far better.
The 18W or 25W model should do you perfect(about €20-25max)
I'd definitely go electric over gas, Gas are great for portability like in a car etc, but I'd 3 Portasols break on me and took endless amounts of them back when working in a shop, they are good for small jobs but not for soldering whole projects(1hour+ turned on)

Soldering is quite easy once you know how
There are plenty of youtube videos showing you the correct techniques

corblimey

Ok, so I might actually do this, and while I understand the concept of soldering I'm obviously wary of spending the bones of 100-150 quid only to knacker up the electrics on my first attempt. So, how would one 'practise' soldering? I have an old clock radio I never use anymore, what are the chances that has soldered parts? Is it easy enough to unsolder then solder in the event of a bit of a balls up?

o1s1n

All junk electronic devices are going to have a little pcb inside. Take that out and star practicing on it.

Even if you just snap some random part off and try to reattach it. Then once you have it soldered in place, try to unsolder it..a skill which is just as (if not more) important.

lostboy75

if i was you, to learn go into your nearest maplins or whoever you chose, get some strip board, and some wire and try on that.
you will need to get the iron etc somewhere anyway so might as well spend a few quid more and pratice on new boards, will be easier on you, and will be more like what you wil be working on later on.
only problem with taking something apart to practice with is you have to de-solder first, which makes making new connection tricky for a beginner.

you might find something here as well

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

Myrddin

Ill take a look at the details of overclocking guys & get back to you shortly. Its not something Ive looked into so bear with me whilst I go check it out

Edit - If everyone is happy with this then let me know:

"ATTENTION: Before you do this mod this You are doing this at your own risk. Some games will not run period I do not have a list but I know there was a few, This also can cause damage to your system if you do this wrong. Be 100% sure you want to do this and FYI do not run this while having your sega cd unit attached (System will not boot)"

Edit 2 - It looks do-able enough, & I reckon I can add an extra switch for switching back to stock speeds to keep cd/32x functionality. Im trying to complile a parts list for the guys who want it done. Bear in mind it seems like MD1 only, I havnt seen anything for MD2 yet.

Edit 3 - All you need is 2 SPST switches and whatever speed 4 pin oscillator you want. Ill certainly do the mod guys, but as Im taking a risk by modifying cpu clocks & therefore wrecking your MD, its beyond the bounds of a free mod. 20 bones plus parts gets the job done

o1s1n

No worries when it comes to payment, sure I'd rather give you a few quid for your efforts anyway.

I have a spare MD1 at home that I'm going to test out tomorrow. If it works then it shall be putting it forward for this uber mod. 4 SPDT switches. That'll need some flames painted on the side too

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

4 SPDT switches. That'll need some flames painted on the side too

Haha was thinking the same myself...

o1s1n productions presents....the ULTIMATE Megadrive, it does what you want, how you want, when you want*

*not condoned by SEGA Enterprises

Jack burton

Well when i get my new spare MD I'll send it on over, 13.4 looked to be a good speed to me but im not sure, what do ye think?

o1s1n

I think with the mod you fit four switches with different speeds. So you're not just limited to the one.

I'm after ordering 8 SPDT switches myself. I'm a little wary about having it done to this Genesis Model 1 though seeing as it's non TMSS.Would hate for it to be buggered up!

But then again..it would be a high def model 1 with no TMSS, region/hz modded and overlocked. The ultimate console.

I'm conflicted!

Jack burton

where did you order them, I need to get some aswell

Myrddin

The guides Ive seen guys really only detail a two speed setup - original clock & a modified clock. Using SPST switches means that one of the two selected positions will be activated, so you would have 1 switch for clock speed setting, and one switch being a halt switch (this halts the cpu allowing you to change the clock, then resume play).

If you want I could look into a 4 clock setup, but your gonna need 3/4 different oscillators & god knows what type of switch. If you have seen 4 speed setups somewhere then send me a link to see whats involved. Also post up parts lists before they are purchased, just to make sure everything is good to go.

Edit - We've completely hijacked the OP's thread here; o1s1n can you create a new thread from this? Or would it be better to continue using PMs?

Jack burton

Well before I order anything I'll clear it with you first enternow

o1s1n

Jack burton wrote: »

where did you order them, I need to get some aswell

The bay

From this seller. I bought my last ones from him too. They're priced decently enough. Maplin was too expensive.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120549719144&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

EnterNow wrote: »

The guides Ive seen guys really only detail a two speed setup - original clock & a modified clock. Using SPST switches means that one of the two selected positions will be activated, so you would have 1 switch for clock speed setting, and one switch being a halt switch (this halts the cpu allowing you to change the clock, then resume play).

If you want I could look into a 4 clock setup, but your gonna need 3/4 different oscillators & god knows what type of switch. If you have seen 4 speed setups somewhere then send me a link to see whats involved. Also post up parts lists before they are purchased, just to make sure everything is good to go.

Ah I see. I have no idea how any of this works. I assumed if you were fitting four switches it would have been selecting between speeds. Woopsy :pac:

A 4 clock setup seems way too complex alright. Best to stick with the one extra speed for the moment I think! Sure it only really needs one extra anyway. Fast enough to deal with the slowdown but slow enough as to not crash anything.

EnterNow wrote: »

Edit - We've completely hijacked the OP's thread here; o1s1n can you create a new thread from this? Or would it be better to continue using PMs?

If I had the powa I would. I only moderate Airsoft and Sega. Am but a mere mortal in here

Sorry OP!

Myrddin

Jack burton wrote: »

Well before I order anything I'll clear it with you first enternow

Cool, if you and the o1smeister are ordering parts I might bail in and do my own while Im at it so let me know before yous order

Jack burton

Sounds like a plan! I'll search around now and check for a good guide and parts listed

Myrddin

Well if we are all happy with a two switch setup the Im good to go on the guide, Ive identified the cpu pins so am pretty much ready to roll on that one.

The mention of a four switch genny was two switches for clock & halt, and two for display & region...mmm now thats goodness.

Just head me up before you guys order so I can piggy back on it. o1s1n, a mere mortal in arcade & retro now why didnt I realise that

Its a 4 pin oscillator we need & two spst switches for the clock mod, I think both you guys have the region mods done correct?

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

Its a 4 pin oscillator we need & two spst switches for the clock mod, I think both you guys have the region mods done correct?

Now that you mention it..I er...might need to get you to do the region mod on this console too. It's the Megadrive V1 I got in the post the other day.The sound quality out of it is much better than the MD 2 and it has no TMSS on startup which is just the bee's knees.

Don't worry, I will give you monies lol

Oh and excuse me if I sound a bit mentally challanged :pac:, but wtf is an oscillator anyway? Does it allow for the control of clock speeds of processors? Would something like this do?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Clock-Oscillator-16-mhz-4-pin-dip-WITH-4-Pin-Socket_W0QQitemZ150336130718QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2300bb4e9e

Myrddin

Yep no hassle 1 region modded clock modded md coming right up sir

Whats the TMSS on startup you refer to?

An oscillator is a fancy crystal, oscillating at a very precise set rate, which regulates the cpu timings. So an oscillator running at 16mhz (as in your link) will run the cpu at 16mhz.

The one in the link there looks fine, but personally I wouldnt go as high as 16mhz o1s1n, do some homework but maybe around 10/11 mhz will retain full functionality whilst providing the necessary power to prevent slowdown...

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

Yep no hassle 1 region modded clock modded md coming right up sir

You are a king among men my good man. A king among men.

EnterNow wrote: »

Whats the TMSS on startup you refer to?

This be TMSS -



It was introduced by Sega to stop unlicensed carts running on Megadrives.

The very first generation Megadrives/Genesis consoles don't have it. They're hard to find though.

I don't really care about unlicensed games, it's the valuable seconds of my life that screen takes up that I'm concerned about!

The first time I started it up and it booted straight to the game..well..I was close to shedding a tear :pac:

EnterNow wrote: »

An oscillator is a fancy crystal, oscillating at a very precise set rate, which regulates the cpu timings. So an oscillator running at 16mhz (as in your link) will run the cpu at 16mhz.

The one in the link there looks fine, but personally I wouldnt go as high as 16mhz o1s1n, do some homework but maybe around 10/11 mhz will retain full functionality whilst providing the necessary power to prevent slowdown...

Ah I get it now thanks. So they come at set speeds. I know the stock Megadrive speed is around 7mhz...will try to find out what the best overlocked speed is.

Jack burton

Well that MD i have on the way will need the region, 60Hz mods and overclocking done to it, would that be alright Enter?

Munnie will change hands of corse, and I'll be very fair

but i have no idea what to get and stuff so will one of ye let me knwo what to get and i'll get it

Drakus

I have a psu from a samsung 215tw lcd monitor go bad, the reason, 3 of the capicitors on the board are bulging(known problem). Anyway boyed up by this thread I got myself new capacitors an Iroda solderpro 50 iron(http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro50.htm), some solder and some de-solder wire as I had to take out the bad capicitors first and this is where my attempt started and finished. I just can't get the solder that's on there off, it's as if the solder is just not melting enough and the de-solder wick is not taking up the solder. I did look at the videos on youtube which make it look so easy but this has not been my experience. Is the soldering iron I bought crap(€33ish) or what could I be doing wrong or anyone know a repair shop in Dublin 15 that does this kind of work.

Myrddin

Drakus wrote: »

I have a psu from a samsung 215tw lcd monitor go bad, the reason, 3 of the capicitors on the board are bulging(known problem). Anyway boyed up by this thread I got myself new capacitors an Iroda solderpro 50 iron(http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro50.htm), some solder and some de-solder wire as I had to take out the bad capicitors first and this is where my attempt started and finished. I just can't get the solder that's on there off, it's as if the solder is just not melting enough and the de-solder wick is not taking up the solder. I did look at the videos on youtube which make it look so easy but this has not been my experience. Is the soldering iron I bought crap(€33ish) or what could I be doing wrong or anyone know a repair shop in Dublin 15 that does this kind of work.

It could be that your iron isnt hot enough, what wattage is it?

Drakus

Well the specs say it is " 30W-70W equivalent electrical power" but you maybe right, either that or the copper braid is not doing it's job, it's hard to tell as the area is very small. Either way it's not working out as easy as shown on youtube.

CathalDublin

What wattage/brand is your iron?
Factory solder(on newer devices) usually melts at a much higher temperature
I find the Wicks useless aswell, the desolder pump is a much better option.
Flow some new solder onto what your trying to de-solder and then use your wick, If your net getting it in a few minutes try a different approach rather than destroy the board
one of these might/will help you, I use one on all my jobs

wiki wrote:

In some instances it is better to destroy the part by cutting off its leads and removing the leads individually, instead of risking damage to the printed circuit board.

kochu.1980

Hi i was going through the thread and i hope some one cud help me in soldering /reworking/ re balling.. i am new to this area but have experience in soldering/ de soldering etc.. What i need to know:
1. What are the basic equipments(tools) needed for rework
2. How a chip can be soldered/de soldered from the PCB.
3. where i can buy the tools(cheap of course!!)
4. Links to videos and guides of how to use hot air solder guns..

Thanx in advance for any help!!