Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Dent repair progress

  • 22-04-2010 8:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭


    I guessed some people here might want to see from my progress from start to finish on a few dent repairs I am doing on my 96' Mitsubishi lancer run about. Specifically the drivers door I am working on is riddled with dents. Bugging me for the past yr so decided to buy the materials and just do the bloody thing while the weather is good.

    Materials I bought were: sand paper
    grey primer
    Black spray paint
    Clear laquer
    Body filler p38 isopon

    I only tackled stage one this evening and sanded down the paint of the effected areas. Will fill them tomarrow and sand/prime. More pics to follow.
    I don't have a hugh amount of experience with body work but I have got good results in the past.

    Took pics with camera phone so not great quality sorry....


    Stage 1: Paint sanded back to bare metal in preperation for the filler
    [URL="[IMG]http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww158/Tommaso_2009/dents2.jpg[/IMG]"]dents2.jpg[/URL]

    dents1.jpg
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 528 ✭✭✭dirtydiesel


    Nice work, those dents look like bullet holes:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    Nice work, those dents look like bullet holes:D

    Thanks, I regret I did not take a pic before I sanded back the paintwork so you could all see the dents in their glory...looked like someone had kicked the door in 6 differant places. Beyond me how they all got there. Oul ones with their trollys in superquinn probably...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 528 ✭✭✭dirtydiesel


    Ya auld wans with shopping trolleys and badly parked micras are a nightmare in supermarket car parks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,795 ✭✭✭Neilw


    Would paintless dent removal not have been a better option?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    Neilw wrote: »
    Would paintless dent removal not have been a better option?

    The door needed a respray anyways so made more sense doing it this way.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭Nonoperational


    Looks good so far.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    Just wondering if anyone could give me a tip. You see the horizontal crease line going across the door? Well the biggest dent as you can see from the picture has flattened the curve of that out and I would like abit of advice on how I should fill that section in as so to sculpture the line with the isopon to bring it back up to it's original shape?

    I'm just going to use my imagination but if there is a simple way to get it back to it's original look then that would be great;)

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,721 ✭✭✭E39MSport


    Nice work there.

    Ahhh good old Isopon.

    I used it liberally on my ma's old Mazda 323 (4th gen, the curved one).

    I crashed it and the whole feckin lot fell off !! It was hilarious (until I got home (on foot) ).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 819 ✭✭✭cuculainn


    Neilw wrote: »
    Would paintless dent removal not have been a better option?


    Hey what is this paintless dent removal stuff you speak about???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,795 ✭✭✭Neilw




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    What you need to restore the shape, is a sanding block which is big enough to bridge the repaired area and reach the original door on both sides. Get some 120 grit paper under it, and sand by hand following the contour of the door. Eventually the shape will return.

    For the areas you've already filled and sanded, give them a light coating of primer as a guide coat. Sand those by hand using a block again once or twice. Any lows will show up as areas with primer that haven't been removed. You'll need to fill those again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    PaintDoctor to the rescue :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    I'm bored waiting for a guy to collect his Multipla :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 606 ✭✭✭baaaa


    What about those hand sucker yokes?Seen them yesterday for 30 quid,like a suction pad that one would use to scale a large glass building.
    Does anyone know if they're any use?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    baaaa wrote: »
    What about those hand sucker yokes?Seen them yesterday for 30 quid,like a suction pad that one would use to scale a large glass building.
    Does anyone know if they're any use?
    I was wondering about those too .. I've got a golf ball sized dent right on the rear corner of my C-Max. No creasing, no cracks in the paint, and as far as I can see no easy access from behind to pop it out, but I reckon it could be sucked out easily enough with something like that. Only problem could be that the surface it's on is quite convex so a flat sucker might not do the job.

    Where did you see this thing for sale?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    I'm no expert in Paintless Dent Removal, but if those suckers worked, the PDR guys would be using them. I've never seen a PDR guy with one in his toolkit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    I'm bored waiting for a guy to collect his Multipla :D

    Can't get that ugly yoke out of your sight quick enough?? Hah!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 606 ✭✭✭baaaa


    Seen the sucker out in atlantic homecare in blanch.It has a face the size of the end of a tin of beans.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    Hi,

    sorry about delay with this, It was a slow process..


    This is when I primed over the repaired areas. Tried my best to follow "PaintDoctors" tip with the sand block to get the shape back.
    This door was a absolute bugger to get off and even more so to get it back on again:P
    [IMG][/img]finished2.jpg

    This is the finished product back on the car, HOWEVER as you can see I made a dogs ear of the "clear coat" I should be able to see myself in that door as I took the pic but clearly it is very smudgy. I applied the gloss as per instruction and it feels smooth like the other panels except there is no mirror effect to it. Just a blury finish.
    I did improve it by applying two coats of wax to it, but I fear I will have to buy more laquer and put another coat on it to bring it up properly?
    Overall being not so experienced on this sort of thing I think I made a good attempt at this but it could have been much better. Any tips???:)

    [IMG][/img]finished.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    If lacquer isn't applied properly, you get that clouded texture. You can remedy it - but only if you've applied enough. What you need to do is a technique called flatting and polishing.

    Flatting is done with wet & dry paper, 2000 grit, try and use the 3M stuff as it won't leave scratches - cheaper stuff will. Get a bucket of soapy water, wet the paper, and start to rub down the lacquer by hand. You should see a white froth build up - that's the uneven lacquer surface being smoothed out. It will take _forever_ but you'll eventually get to a point where it's as smooth as glass, but still dull looking. Dry it all off, and you'll see a horrible finish and panic a little, but all you need to do now is polish it back to a shine. Get some meguiars speed glaze, and a soft polishing head on a polisher, plenty of water again, and keep polishing it over and over until it gleams.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    Just to clarify on the above, if you haven't enough lacquer on, it could make things worse.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    If lacquer isn't applied properly, you get that clouded texture. You can remedy it - but only if you've applied enough. What you need to do is a technique called flatting and polishing.

    Flatting is done with wet & dry paper, 2000 grit, try and use the 3M stuff as it won't leave scratches - cheaper stuff will. Get a bucket of soapy water, wet the paper, and start to rub down the lacquer by hand. You should see a white froth build up - that's the uneven lacquer surface being smoothed out. It will take _forever_ but you'll eventually get to a point where it's as smooth as glass, but still dull looking. Dry it all off, and you'll see a horrible finish and panic a little, but all you need to do now is polish it back to a shine. Get some meguiars speed glaze, and a soft polishing head on a polisher, plenty of water again, and keep polishing it over and over until it gleams.

    What I done was I put a light hazy coat of laquer on first, following that I put the top coat on. I kept spraying it until the panel looked wet and worked my way down.
    I will try that with the 3M stuff and give it a go during the week. If that fails can I re laquer the door while it's on the car? I has been told it is better to laquer with the door flat as it gives the laquer less chance to run down the panels like a runny egg... I don't fancy taking the door off again as it was a bugger.....

    Thanks for the tip I will do as described:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    mondeo wrote: »
    What I done was I put a light hazy coat of laquer on first, following that I put the top coat on. I kept spraying it until the panel looked wet and worked my way down.
    I will try that with the 3M stuff and give it a go during the week. If that fails can I re laquer the door while it's on the car? I has been told it is better to laquer with the door flat as it gives the laquer less chance to run down the panels like a runny egg... I don't fancy taking the door off again as it was a bugger.....

    Thanks for the tip I will do as described:D

    You shouldn't put so much lacquer on that it'll run. A build up of several thin coats is always better than thick coats which more than likely will run.


Advertisement