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more water (in the words of Jack)

Comments

  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 18,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭Solitaire


    Moving to T&M, this is their kinda thing!

    Gah! :eek: You should really stick to good-quality distilled water with a bit of additive to give colour and algae-proofing. Those goopy fluids typically have lower thermal conduction and higher electrical conduction than distilled and have a tendency to clog joints and blocks with sediment!! :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,933 ✭✭✭Sniipe


    so distilled water with antifreeze will do or what is this algae-proofing liquid you speak of :) (Again, I assume I don't need to remove the current liquid)?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,817 ✭✭✭✭po0k


    and keeping all the metal surfaces that touch the water/coolant the same to avoid electrolysis


  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 18,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭Solitaire


    The whole point about using proper distilled water with minimal additives which are also as inert as possible is that not much can go wrong with it - its electrically non-conductive thus not dangerous to equipment in the event of epic fail (read: leaks) and incapable of electrolysis so fittings of different metals/alloys aren't going to corrode like crazy.

    Of course, it can be prone to self-electrolysis (splitting), emitting hydrogen if exposed to high voltages, but that's quite a different issue altogether... ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,933 ✭✭✭Sniipe


    In the end I got distilled water and went to pour water in. It didn't go in because it needed a funnel.

    I then got the user manual and was reading it and it said to leave a 1.5cm gap between the water and the top... So in the end it was over full anyway, so I just left it :)


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