Query for self builders - from screed to move in?

westisbest

Hi, just looking for any advice from others experience of how long it took from screed being poured to moving in.

We've been told to wait a few weeks before turning on UFH to protect screed. The painter says he can come in and paint before then (it's plastered internally about four weeks now) and the tiler has also said he can tile the walls in bathrooms before the heat goes on. So say heat on in two weeks, turn it on for maybe two weeks (?) before carpenter starts on floors/skirting/doors etc and tiler comes back to do bathroom floors. We're going with engineered wood floors so we've been told by carpenter and supplier that we shouldn't need to "acclimatise" these in the house first.

So, assuming we've all trades lined up and ready to go - bar usual unforeseen delays! - would two months from now be an ok-ish estimate? I know its a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question, but a general idea even would be great.

Thanks

mr_edge_to_you

I reckon if you expect 2 months you'll be disappointed. We're two weeks away from moving in we hope. It is suprisingly slow the stage where you are up to completion. Give yourself 3 months realistically. I think painting on plaster four weeks old is a bit soon. We started painting 8 weeks after plaster was finished and 2 days before heat went on. The 2 days work before heating went on resulted in a messy job. Four weeks might be okay if you got some industrial dehumidifiers up and running.

gerryk

I'd be very careful about rushing at this point. The screed and plaster is going to take 3 months to be fully dry. We built recently, and the screed/plastering was done around December-January. We are in 3 weeks at this stage.
We did plenty of moisture tests, and found moisture content (albeit minimal) in the floors up to a month ago. If you rush the tiling and painting, it will come off and you'll wish you waited.
The weather being warmer and dryer at the moment will help, but, for your own sake, don't rush.
I would also recommend varnishing all the woodwork before it goes in the house, as, depending on what sort of wood it is, it wii absorb moisture and swell/warp.

redonly

Gerryk what were acceptable moisture levels in the concrete floors? Is it slightly lower for wooden floors and higher for tiled floors?

gerryk

I'd be lying if I said I knew... the builder did the tests himself.