How can I get rid of scratches from briars???

cjmcork

Like a briar myself this morning, scratched the whole LHS of the car with the hedging in our drive this morning - spatial issues (the alternative was belt it off bricks on the other side of the drive) - how can I get rid of these marks??????? Like a b1tch over it now...........gggrrrrr:mad:

vectra

Take a pic of the scratch
Put it up here
you will get suggestions then as nobody knows how bad/deep the scratch is.
There are some Professional detailers on here who I am sure would offer to Buff/Machine it out with a bit of paint correction

Gurgle

Unless you've got diamond-tipped briars or paintwork made from chocolate the scratches will just be rubs on the surface of the paint.

T-Cut should sort it out nicely, don't forget to wax afterwards.

cjmcork

a job for the brother me thinks!

vectra

Gurgle wrote: »

Unless you've got diamond-tipped briars or paintwork made from chocolate the scratches will just be rubs on the surface of the paint.

T-Cut should sort it out nicely, don't forget to wax afterwards.

Dont use T-Cut on Metallic whatever about old solid colors

giant_midget

2000 wet and dry sandpaper, cutting compound, then t cut and wax, will bring most scratches back to normal.

cjmcork

brill thanks!

Dr_Colossus

vectra wrote: »

Dont use T-Cut on Metallic whatever about old solid colors

What would you recommend for metallic paintwork? Bought a 01 Volvo recently in a metallic wine colour that has a few scratches/scrapes around the bodywork that I'd quite like to even out.

vectra

Dr_Colossus wrote: »

What would you recommend for metallic paintwork? Bought a 01 Volvo recently in a metallic wine colour that has a few scratches/scrapes around the bodywork that I'd quite like to even out.

I would suggest taking it to a Detailer/Valeter and get it buffed out with a machine.
I have one mark on the door of my metallic car since 3 days after buying it. I would not compound/T-cut it as it could quite possibly dull the paint, Machine it is the only suggestion I would make

fryup

hey OP, try color magic i find it excellent for light scratches

Alun

fryup wrote: »

hey OP, try color magic i find it excellent for light scratches

That's what I use and it works well, I find. I have a dark blue metallic car and spend a lot of time on small country roads in the Wicklow Mountains, so have a good few scratches along the side from brambles and other roadside vegetation. They're never very deep though, only on the very outside surface, and the Color Magic stuff from Turtle Wax does the job for me.

nogoodnamesleft

After what looks like some prick did his best dukes of hazzard impression over the bonnet of my car I was left with a few scratches.
I got some cutting compound and diluted it substantially with lots and lots of good quality car polish. I applied a couple of coats of car wax to protect the paint work afterwards.

giant_midget

vectra wrote: »

I would suggest taking it to a Detailer/Valeter and get it buffed out with a machine.
I have one mark on the door of my metallic car since 3 days after buying it. I would not compound/T-cut it as it could quite possibly dull the paint, Machine it is the only suggestion I would make

Iv never heard such nonsence :rolleyes:, if it would not t cut out use 2000 sandpaper (wet obviously) then t cut it..I promise it will not wreck your paint. and will look 100% when you are done.

giant_midget

I can panel beat, welt and paint a car perfectly, so i know that the 2000 sandpaper is the way;)

Don't listen to any of this "take it to a detailer that has a polishing machine rubbish" waste of your time and your money, Do it yourself it's easy.

leeomurchu

Agree with Jesus, T-cut will get it out but be prepared for a fair bit of hard work and a sore shoulder or get one of those buffing machines from halfords. be careful of more commercial cutting compounds you might burn through the clear coat if you're Mr' Muscles

MetzgerMeister

A lot of good suggestions here. I do car valeting too and for light scratches (i.e. you can't feel them when you rub your finger over them) I use Turtle Wax Safe Cut. It comes in a tube. Squirt a small bit onto a cloth and use a circular motion over the scratches working on a small bit at a time.

It does take time and elbow grease but be patient. Try not to let excess dry into the paintwork. You'll notice it getting dry after a while. Just wipe it all off, clean with a soapy sponge and start again. Eventually you'll see the scratch start to disappear.

With regard to sandpaper, please try and avoid doing this if you don't have any experience with sandpaper and paintwork. You may regret it. Safe Cut has that name for a reason, as does sandpaper!

Best of luck

vectra

fryup wrote: »

hey OP, try color magic i find it excellent for light scratches

Alun wrote: »

That's what I use and it works well, I find. .

Isnt that just a colored polish that "hides" the marks rather than "fix" them?

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

Iv never heard such nonsence .

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

I can panel beat, welt and paint a car perfectly, so i know that the 2000 sandpaper is the way;)

Don't listen to any of this "take it to a detailer that has a polishing machine rubbish" waste of your time and your money, Do it yourself it's easy.

And you are talking from experience obviously.
Did you ask the OP if they are experienced Panel Beaters?
I can just see a "Joe Soap" taking sandpaper to their paint work while not having a clue what they are doing
"Nonsence" is what you are suggesting alright :rolleyes:

leeomurchu wrote: »

Agree with Jesus, T-cut will get it out but be prepared for a fair bit of hard work and a sore shoulder or get one of those buffing machines from halfords. be careful of more commercial cutting compounds you might burn through the clear coat if you're Mr' Muscles

Oh yes.
Get a machine at halfords and leave holograms all over the car :P

sean1141

picture of said scratch is needed to say the best way of fixing them up.. i would sugest some auto glym super resin polish (can be got in halfords) and see if this helps.. if they are deep scratches you are best off getting a detailer to machine them out..

CrowdedHouse

There's stuff called T-Cut Color Fast Scratch remover

You can get it in the colour of your car,I used it recently it worked well but the mark on mine was very slight.

giant_midget

@ Vectra

Yes im speaking from experience, As for the Nonsence, That was aimed at your comment. bring it to a detail or valet specialist, only a half wit would pay someone for a simple job like this. You shouldn't really post in topics that you clearly have no understanding of.

How many cars habe you sprayed? how many cars have you rubbed down? how many panels have you filled/fixed or welded. For me many...

I don't know a hell of a lot about engines, but enough to get my by. I don't post in topics that i have no clue about.

Not having a dig, just stating facts.:)

vectra

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

@ Vectra

Yes im speaking from experience, As for the Nonsence, That was aimed at your comment. bring it to a detail or valet specialist, only a half wit would pay someone for a simple job like this. You shouldn't really post in topics that you clearly have no understanding of.
)

Well to put that statement in perspective.
I would never suggest what you did by not even seeing how deep the scratches were.
You said it yourself that you ARE experienced in this field.
Is the OP??
Would the OP feel comfy using sandpaper on their paintwork..
Halfwit you say??
I rest my case.:rolleyes:

OH
And how many cars have I sprayed??
Wel to be honest I dont have a clue as I started bodywork repairs when I left school.. ermm..!! 36 years ago..!!
So some experience is on my side but more importantly.. Is it on the OP's side.

giant_midget

vectra wrote: »

Well to put that statement in perspective.
I would never suggest what you did by not even seeing how deep the scratches were.
You said it yourself that you ARE experienced in this field.
Is the OP??
Would the OP feel comfy using sandpaper on their paintwork..
Halfwit you say??
I rest my case.:rolleyes:

OH
And how many cars have I sprayed??
Wel to be honest I dont have a clue as I started bodywork repairs when I left school.. ermm..!! 36 years ago..!!
So some experience is on my side but more importantly.. Is it on the OP's side.

That is a fair point, We have not seen the marks on the panel yet.

lol you started body work repairs 36 years ago, Did you actully learn anything? on first page you said not to use t cut on metallica colours, according to you it dulls the paint...again lol

Then you suggest taking it to a detailer/valeter

You didn't learn a lot in those 36 years did you going by your "advice" above? my one and only point is don't give advice when you clearly have no idea how paint reacts to t cut, sanding or polishing....Leave it to the people who know what they are talking about...:rolleyes:

vectra

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

That is a fair point, We have not seen the marks on the panel yet.

lol you started body work repairs 36 years ago, Did you actully learn anything? on first page you said not to use t cut on metallica colours, according to you it dulls the paint...again lol

Then you suggest taking it to a detailer/valeter

You didn't learn a lot in those 36 years did you going by your "advice" above? my one and only point is don't give advice when you clearly have no idea how paint reacts to t cut, sanding or polishing....Leave it to the people who know what they are talking about...:rolleyes:

Well
Lets see what the OP thinks of our suggestions.
What does he do when he sees his paint dulled from the sandpaper?
also
who said I spent 36 years at bodywork?
My man you make some load of Assumptions.
OH
my suggestion to take it to a detailer/valeter was a genuine one on the understanding that the OP hasnt a clue how to look after his paintwork
again I ask you
Do you know what epxperience they have

sean1141

if the OP has to post up here looking for advice then im guessing they dont have any experience in bodywork repairs.. t cut in the right hands is ok but if not used right it can cause damage. im sure you would agree?? there is t cut for metalic paints afaik.. personally i would not use it myself. and as for a novice using 2000 wet and dry on the side of their car i think thats a big no no. not saying its not a good way of getting it out or anything, i have seen detailers using it but i wouldnt chance it myself. if your not comfortable doing this yourself OP and if something like auto glym super resin polish followed by a wax dose not improve the mark or remove it then go to a pro detailer. the likes of detailer.ie or spirit detailing do great work. http://www.detailer.ie/portfolio.php

vectra

sean1141 wrote: »

if the OP has to post up here looking for advice then im guessing they dont have any experience in bodywork repairs.. t cut in the right hands is ok but if not used right it can cause damage. im sure you would agree?? there is t cut for metalic paints afaik.. personally i would not use it myself. and as for a novice using 2000 wet and dry on the side of their car i think thats a big no no. not saying its not a good way of getting it out or anything, i have seen detailers using it but i wouldnt chance it myself. if your not comfortable doing this yourself OP and if something like auto glym super resin polish followed by a wax dose not improve the mark or remove it then go to a pro detailer. the likes of detailer.ie or spirit detailing do great work. http://www.detailer.ie/portfolio.php

Thank God there is at least one more member on here with a little bit of Cop-on :rolleyes:

giant_midget

sean1141 wrote: »

if the OP has to post up here looking for advice then im guessing they dont have any experience in bodywork repairs.. t cut in the right hands is ok but if not used right it can cause damage. im sure you would agree?? there is t cut for metalic paints afaik.. personally i would not use it myself. and as for a novice using 2000 wet and dry on the side of their car i think thats a big no no. not saying its not a good way of getting it out or anything, i have seen detailers using it but i wouldnt chance it myself. if your not comfortable doing this yourself OP and if something like auto glym super resin polish followed by a wax dose not improve the mark or remove it then go to a pro detailer. the likes of detailer.ie or spirit detailing do great work. http://www.detailer.ie/portfolio.php

True true..I suppose you would get a fright with some sandpaper in your hands ready to rub away some paint for first time.
More people should try this as 2000 wet is just like a crude t cut and will not leave scratches, My brothers old corsa years ago...a red one the top few layers had dulled down, common on opels...my vectra was the same it looked horrible until i went at it, Both cars looked like new with a few hours work.

It's always worth having a go, your paint will only dull down if you don't copmpund the panel after sanding and if it's dull you have used too tough a grade paper, After sanding and compound it will be as shiny as a mirror.

I have a bonnet in the garage i will post up pics in a seperate thread showing how simple it is to get it back looking like new even tho it may look like it's ready for the bin, just so people can see themselves, we need more people trying this sort of stuff and keeping funds in their pockets

giant_midget

@ Vectra

Sorry if i annoyed / offended you in any of my posts.

sean1141

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

True true..I suppose you would get a fright with some sandpaper in your hands ready to rub away some paint for first time.
More people should try this as 2000 wet is just like a crude t cut and will not leave scratches, My brothers old corsa years ago...a red one the top few layers had dulled down, common on opels...my vectra was the same it looked horrible until i went at it, Both cars looked like new with a few hours work.

It's always worth having a go, your paint will only dull down if you don't copmpund the panel after sanding and if it's dull you have used too tough a grade paper, After sanding and compound it will be as shiny as a mirror.

I have a bonnet in the garage i will post up pics in a seperate thread showing how simple it is to get it back looking like new even tho it may look like it's ready for the bin, just so people can see themselves, we need more people trying this sort of stuff and keeping funds in their pockets

i agree with you that people should try it but not everyone has any ideas where to start.. i love cleaning my car myself but most people dont have a clue where to start. how many people buy new cars and just drive them true a carwash and then wonder why there is loads of scratches all over their car.. a guy in work asked me the other day how i got my car so shiny.. i said i used wax.. where did you get that and how do ya use it. i says you can get it in halfords, you rub it on with a soft cloth or sponge and let it dry then buff off with another cloth. off he went. came up to me a few days later and says i cant get the wax to work right. showed me the wax he got...... http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_166524_langId_-1_categoryId_212371 lol

vectra

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

True true..I suppose you would get a fright with some sandpaper in your hands ready to rub away some paint for first time.
More people should try this as 2000 wet is just like a crude t cut and will not leave scratches, My brothers old corsa years ago...a red one the top few layers had dulled down, common on opels...my vectra was the same it looked horrible until i went at it, Both cars looked like new with a few hours work.

It's always worth having a go, your paint will only dull down if you don't copmpund the panel after sanding and if it's dull you have used too tough a grade paper, After sanding and compound it will be as shiny as a mirror.

I have a bonnet in the garage i will post up pics in a seperate thread showing how simple it is to get it back looking like new even tho it may look like it's ready for the bin, just so people can see themselves, we need more people trying this sort of stuff and keeping funds in their pockets

I agree with that 100% but as I said previously.. It is a big undertaking for a person with no knowledge whatsoever about this method... Frightening would be more appropriate :eek:

jesusinaglanza wrote: »

@ Vectra

Sorry if i annoyed / offended you in any of my posts.

No offence taken..

MetzgerMeister

@ Jesusinaglanza & vectra - I'm glad to see we're dealing with men, not little bitches