Replacing a WiFi switch and USB socket - picture guide

wildefalcon

This thread will cover the repair of a Toshiba Satellite L300D - 202 laptop.

My son bought this from a seller over on adverts.ie, knowing it was requiring repair. The seller made this absolutely clear and the rest of the laptop was 100%, and in superb condition.

First.

Assess the repair.

In this case both components are either on the motherboard or on a daughter board, so the laptop will have to be opened, and the motherboard most likely will need to be taken out completely.

I'll need a new WiFi switch - as the seller assures me ther isn't one on the Motherboard.

I'll also need a stacked USB socket.

The case trim around the PIMCIA/Expresscard slot is also sticking down too much, this will have to be trimmed/reshaped.

So, I reckon it will take 1 hour to take the motherboard out, max.

It will take 1 hour to repair the motherboard, and 1 hour to reassemble.

I'd usually charge about 50 to 90 euro for this repair, depending on the hassles encountered.

Picture attached: photo of the damage. I'll resize it in a few minutes and post it again.

WildeFalcon

wildefalcon

This should embed a picture of the damage.



WildeFalcon

wildefalcon

CYA time.

Legal disclaimer:

Don't copy this. Don't be inspired to do this to your laptop.

Even if you are a qualified repair technician, with the service manuals and equipment necessary there exists the risk you will damage the laptop, damage yourself, damage people around you.

If you do any of these things don't blame me, don't sue me, don't sue anyone around me. Don't blame www.boards.ie, either.

Unless you agree to this then don't read any further.

End legal disclaimer.

Sorry about that, but there are people who would use any excuse.

WildeFalcon.

wildefalcon

For this job I'm using the kitchen table.

I'm building a workshop in the study, but it isn't done yet.

The table is good, as the floor is solid wood (can't lose things), it is beside an old range which is earthed.

Electrostatic Discharge destroys computer parts. This is the static shock you get after walking over artifical surfaces, like carpets.

To avoid it I keep touching the range, this discharges any static into the Earth and not into the computer parts.

I have a selection of tools that I've collected over the years, sourced from various suppliers, including, of all places, Lidl.

Whatever works.



First, remove the charger and the battery.

.

Next, I make a map of the back of the laptop, showing all the screws and their position. I check on the sides and back of the laptop for "hidden screws". Also under stickers and rubber feet.

Toshiba make it easy - they mark each screw hole with the length and head of the screw. Good reason to buy Toshiba.

.

WildeFalcon.

wildefalcon

Remove the access doors.



Revealing the RAM and hard disk.



Note the screw retainers on the access doors, nice touch from Toshiba. If these wern't there I'd stick some tape over the screw head to hold them in place while they are out.



Next, remove the Hard Drive, making sure that I've earthed myself immediately before.

Toshiba use a ribbon to hold the hard drive caddy in place, others use a plastic tab, or screws.



Pull the ribbon towards the blank recess, gently.



The hard disk slides into the recess.



Allowing you to remove the hard disk.



Next, removing the RAM.

wildefalcon

The RAM is easy to remove, but the first time I did it I was terrified, all you do is bend the two tabs on either side, back and it pops out.



Pictures:

With a blunt instrument, or a finger nail, pry one of the two retaining tabs back a little bit, just enough to clear the RAM card. Nothing happens at first



Same on the other side, you should see a distinct movement.



Sometimes you have to repeat the action on the first side. Othertimes the RAM just pops out.



Gently remove the RAM, having ensured you have been earthed.

Repeat for the second RAM card, if fitted.

.

Now to remove the back of the casing.

Alanstrainor

Awesome post!

wildefalcon

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Awesome post!

Thanks! Having a break for some tea and a bun. Don't want to get the shakes when doing this.

WildeFalcon

wildefalcon

I unscrewed all the screws along the bottom of the case, using a magnetic tipped screwdriver and plugging thescrews straight into the screw map.

When unscrewing screws I usually apply a reasonable amount of downward pressure on the screwdriver while starting the unscrewing. This reduces the risk of stripping the head of the screw.

This is quite lightly to happen as manufacturers dip the screws in thread locking compound (blue stuff) during assembly.

Picture of the map and the screw attached to the driver.



I usually see if the case parts at this stage, usually it doesn't, the imprtant thing is DO NOT FORCE it. If it isn't moving it's for a GOOD reason.

I was able to part this a bit with my fingers, but usually a guitar pic is necessary to persuade the case clips to part.





The case did part, but only a bit.



DO not Force.

Usually there are screws holding the case together that can only be accessed fron the top, usually after removing the keyboard.

Toshiba use screws along the top to hold their their keyboards on, and these are usually under a trim panel along the top.

If you look closely along the top of the keyboard you will see indentations.



Press down the top row of keys to improve visibility.

Use a prytool, I use a flat screw driver that has been bent a bit, to pop the trim upwards. Start on the right hand side.



The whole panel will pop out. As usual if it doesn't move DON'T Force it. Find out why it isn't moving.



The keyboard retining screw will be revealed.



Before removing these update your map of screws. Draw a schematic to record and hold the screws.

The keyboard should just come out, but Toshiba had 3 little clips holding the board in place. One along the top and 2 at each side.



I used the pry tool to push the clip up and the keyboard came loose with a minimum of fuss.

The keyboard is still attached via the ribbon cable.



The connector needs to be unclipped and the ribbon cable removed before the keyboard can be removed.

Get good access to the conector - there should be enough slack on the ribbon to place it away a bit.

The connector has two parts - a fixed part on the motherboard, and a movable tightener that clips in to hold the cable in place.

To remove start on one side and, using a blunt instrument, slide one end of the tightener out of the fixed part. This only requires movement of 1 or 2 mm, so be gentle. These connectors are quite fragile so exercise great care.



Repeat on the other side.



The cable should just slip out. Repeat the above if it doesn't.

Remove the keyboard. This should reveal a number of additional screws and other bits.



Next, remove the screws and cables.

wildefalcon

Nearly there!

New map of the front of the case:



The keyboard screw are already in.

The rest of the screws have to be removed.



After which I tried to remove the case again.



There was something stopping it at theback, so I tried the clips over the hinges with the pic.



Success!



I DID have to remove the Mouse ribbon cable too.

Same idea the keyboard.

Motherboard revealed:



Time for another map - this time of the motherboard scres and connectors:



Remove the screws and the connectors:



The motherboard then comes out, though it does take some gentle prying of the case out of the way - gentleness pays in terms of uncracked cases!



Now for the hard work!!!

WildeFalcon.

wildefalcon

Right.

Close ups of the problems:

Picture of the damaged switch:



As you can see the switch casing is missing, and the slider is gone. The slider would connect 4 of the 6 pads in one position, and the other 4 pads in the other position.

This is going to be a sod to fix, without access to a heap of spare parts.
I'm going to have to root through a lot of old junk to find a similar six pad switch. I may just bridge the gaps with a wire, and have the WiFi on the whole time.

And a picture of the USB socket:



This shows that the pins have been pushed back into the computer, out of the casing. The plastic location peg has been broken off.

Again, this isn't an easy repair, mainly as the socket is a dual type that straddles the motherboard, most USB sockets are mounted on the surface of the board.

I may try to repair, rather than replace.

I'll take a break for a bit to search for parts in the "pile of junk".

More later,

WildeFalcon

pajero12

Great post,very interesting...:D

bonzodog2

Nice detailed pics. That screw map is a great idea.

wildefalcon

bonzodog2 wrote: »

Nice detailed pics. That screw map is a great idea.

Thanks!

I hope ye enjoy it.

I also fix older cars, this map idea is the technique used to ensure the correct bolt goes back in the same place when rebuilding engines.

WildeFalcon.

asgaard

If you need any help on my side just give me a shout. GOOD JOB. Also i bought glue called Electon 40 AC (repairs broken lines of printed circuits). It might be useful for WIFI (stay ON all of the time and save money).

wildefalcon

asgaard wrote: »

If you need any help on my side just give me a shout. GOOD JOB. Also i bought glue called Electon 40 AC (repairs broken lines of printed circuits). It might be useful for WIFI (stay ON all of the time and save money).

Thanks, I'm going to bridge the contacts on hte WiFi Switch: the rebuild of the switch is too time consuming!!

WildeFalcon

wildefalcon

Well, I've bridged the contact, and it's working fine. The USB, however has not been a success, I couldn't get the 4 contacts to mate up fully and reliably with the USB plug, so that was a failure.

What I may do later is put a USB hub inside, and fit another port elsewhere.

Reassembly is, of course, the reverse of disassembly. Make sure that you click the keyboard and mouse connectors home carefully.

Finished.

WildeFalcon.


PS: Any questions?

duckysauce

nice post