oil burner

carefull now!

does any body know can waste oil- used engine oil- be used in a home heating burner?

macnab

in theory Yes it can. However there are possible legal and moral issues. Waste oil is thicker (more viscous) than home heating oil so it will not burn correctly in a standard oil burner, this will lead to air pollution. I think you need a licence or a permit to burn waste oil.

Micky Dolenz

In practice it will burn it. I know becasue I spent time testing different oils on the average burner.

The burner will almost burn any type of oil, however the burner won't last long as most oils lack the lubricant that is added to fuel. Basically the burner gets clogged up and won't relight.

jjwhitty

Pippa Middleton's Arse wrote: »

In practice it will burn it. I know becasue I spent time testing different oils on the average burner.

The burner will almost burn any type of oil, however the burner won't last long as most oils lack the lubricant that is added to fuel. Basically the burner gets clogged up and won't relight.

domestic oil burners wont burn everything, i am in the middle of changing over from waste veg oil (wvo)mix to waste motor oil, (wmo) i had every success with blends of wvo oil to kerosene at a 50 to 50 mix turn the pump up to 14 ,, change nossle to .60 s,, i tried every kind of mix with wmo with diesel,, kerosene,, petrol,, no success even at 17 pressure even with nossle drilled out to 1mm, basically wmo needs a preheater and thermostat, riello the most popular make in ireland even though they are italian.. make a waste oil burner now with preheater and thermostat, but check very inquisitably as they state in their adds FOR LIGHT OILS and wmo is not light,, i am dealing with reillo at moment to see about these changes to my 10 year old boiler to burn wmo, but i would have to do modifacations my self... if not i,ll change burner,, also wvo and wmo have a longer flame and can burn out back of boiler wall, it would need a diffuser standing up about 3 inch from back,, like a piece of angle iron welded to a thick plate for a stand the angle iron divides flame partially to right an left and try a thick plate of steel standing up at back as a sacrifice piece the thicker the plate the better,, a few spot of weld would be advisable but dont burn through the water wall,, its very inportant to filter at about 1 micron and maybe centrifuge for sub micron level,leave to stand for settling very important after processing. i have spent about €800 on setting up my processing , so far, and even that is by making my own centrifuge, saving about €1000 on that, you would also be wise to add diesel,, or kerosene even better because its thinner ,, i,m told the pump shaft can sieze with too thick an oil,,these things can happen with a burner that wasn,t designed for wmo,, unless you make these changes,, including preheater and thermostat very important, as heater heats to nearly flash point,, unless it adjustable with a knob,, but also if you use reillo (for light oil ) its flash point is considerable lower than wmo,, so dilute,,i use a lot of equipment 3 of these are wheelie bins,, when transfering from one to another let it settle for as long as possible,,the thicker it is the longer it takes to settle,,hope this is helpful..

Billy Bunting

Gosh!!

deandean

Thank you jj for a very good and informative post (even for an old thread!).
Any dealings with medium or heavy oils, the oil has to be pre heated.
The market has changed though, folks now will take the hand off you for waste oil. there is very little fuel to be had 'for free' now.

Billy Bunting

Is it not still illegal to burn waste motor oil.

TPM

3 year old thread and drilled out nozzles :eek:

jjwhitty

i spend a lot of time on my process 3 items i use are 3 wheelie bins,, every time you transfer oil from one to another let it settle, sediment will go to bottom the longer the better,,dilution is good ,, for lubrication,, of pump so it dont sieze,,remember reillo states in their adds, for the ones they have with preheater and therm (for light oils) the flash point of lighter oils is lower than wmo,,so if they dont work its an expensive lesson,, try some kerosene to lighten oil and give wmo some burning power,,the thicknesses can be helped along to get close by a viscosity test, the bottom cut off a 3 liter coke bottle 3mm hole drilled in lid, and time in seconds for1 liter to run through it,, upside down like a funnell into another cut bottle,, check you wmo viscosity this way towards recoginesed fuels, it helps for easier combustion,, remember also a preheater will make it thinner,, hope this helps too,,

shane0007

jjwhitty wrote: »

domestic oil burners wont burn everything, i am in the middle of changing over from waste veg oil (wvo)mix to waste motor oil, (wmo) i had every success with blends of wvo oil to kerosene at a 50 to 50 mix turn the pump up to 14 ,, change nossle to .60 s,, i tried every kind of mix with wmo with diesel,, kerosene,, petrol,, no success even at 17 pressure even with nossle drilled out to 1mm, basically wmo needs a preheater and thermostat, riello the most popular make in ireland even though they are italian.. make a waste oil burner now with preheater and thermostat, but check very inquisitably as they state in their adds FOR LIGHT OILS and wmo is not light,, i am dealing with reillo at moment to see about these changes to my 10 year old boiler to burn wmo, but i would have to do modifacations my self... if not i,ll change burner,, also wvo and wmo have a longer flame and can burn out back of boiler wall, it would need a diffuser standing up about 3 inch from back,, like a piece of angle iron welded to a thick plate for a stand the angle iron divides flame partially to right an left and try a thick plate of steel standing up at back as a sacrifice piece the thicker the plate the better,, a few spot of weld would be advisable but dont burn through the water wall,, its very inportant to filter at about 1 micron and maybe centrifuge for sub micron level,leave to stand for settling very important after processing. i have spent about €800 on setting up my processing , so far, and even that is by making my own centrifuge, saving about €1000 on that, you would also be wise to add diesel,, or kerosene even better because its thinner ,, i,m told the pump shaft can sieze with too thick an oil,,these things can happen with a burner that wasn,t designed for wmo,, unless you make these changes,, including preheater and thermostat very important, as heater heats to nearly flash point,, unless it adjustable with a knob,, but also if you use reillo (for light oil ) its flash point is considerable lower than wmo,, so dilute,,i use a lot of equipment 3 of these are wheelie bins,, when transfering from one to another let it settle for as long as possible,,the thicker it is the longer it takes to settle,,hope this is helpful..

You wouldn't want to be my neighbour, that's for sure!

jjwhitty

i dont know about the legality of burning it,,

jjwhitty

how do you know i,m not your neighbour, this is not my name here,,

Billy Bunting

If you have a family you value be very careful of the flue gases, they are sure to be lethal.

jjwhitty

and as i,ve said wmo i had no success so im not burning it,,,,,,

shane0007

jjwhitty wrote: »

how do you know i,m not your neighbour, this is not my name here,,

I think I would know from the smoke signals you'd be sending out!

jjwhitty

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If you have a family you value be very careful of the flue gases, they are sure to be lethal.

test done are supposed to be ok, it burns at a very high temp, and because of it no pollutants,, acording to eu tests,,so why are manufacterers allowed to build and sell then in ireland officially,,,

jjwhitty

shane0007 wrote: »

I think I would know from the smoke signals you'd be sending out!

i,m not burnin it lol