Reducing a oil Boilers output?

kodak

I have a firebird boiler with a riello burner. Its rated at 23kw to 35kw. How does one pick the 23kw option. Does the nozzle side reflect this?

I did some calculation on the rad sizes, hot water cylinder and pipe loss and i think it could be oversized, if its set at 35..

Will it make a difference? I presume it is short cycling at the moment..

Will be getting a heating engineer to do this. Just wondering so he ain't giving me the run around!

Cheers for the any help and advice

JohnnieK

It's down to the nozzle type and air damper setting to suite. The burner is usually set to the lower rating and if needs be is increased. I'm a novice to oil burners so hopeful some of the more experienced lads will reply to you.

kodak

JohnnieK wrote: »

It's down to the nozzle type and air damper setting to suite. The burner is usually set to the lower rating and if needs be is increased. I'm a novice to oil burners so hopeful some of the more experienced lads will reply to you.

Thanks for that,

The nozzle is .55USgal/hr and is 80oH.

Can one work out the Kw/h from that?

Just read 1GPH = 140,000 BTU's

So .55 is around 77,000 which is 22.5Kw/h

So I presume thats grand

Is the damper just set to suit the nozzle size?

Maybe we're okay just ok here!

JohnnieK

I think it can. The conversion escapes me at the moment. Is there zone control's on your system? If not the boiler will cycle anyway.

JohnnieK

The damper is set to suit the nozzle size. The burner manual lists the damper setting to each nozzle.

kodak

JohnnieK wrote: »

I think it can. The conversion escapes me at the moment. Is there zone control's on your system? If not the boiler will cycle anyway.

Only manual zones controls .i.e hot water cylinder (it's a bungalow btw)

JohnnieK

Mmmmm. The boiler is going to keep cycling because there is no control on it apart from the local stat on the boiler. There is nothing in the house to tell it that heat requirement is satisfied and turn off. The stat on the boiler is only system water set point, there is usually a 5 degree stagger on them (when it goes 5oC below set point it comes on again and so on)

kodak

Ok I see the problem now alright. I am replatering some walls soon and could probably pull some cables.. Can you get wireless thermostats?

I presume a thermostat is wired into a timer?
So how many would i need, there is only one bedroom, kitchen, dining room, living room and bathroom and cylinder?

ANybody know what cost the materials would be? My friend is a plumber so he'd sort me out with labour...

I presume digital thermostats are the only ones to get? Do you need motorised valves too?

Thanks for the help..

JohnnieK

Hi Kodac

You will need two motorized zone valves, one cylinder stat, one room temperature stat and a 2 channel programmer and a wiring centre. This sounds more complicated then it really is.

You can get radio controlled packs that have remote stats.

In a nutshell everything is wired back and linked in the wiring centre. First in the sequence is the fused spur witch provides the power, then the programmer, then the stats, the stats operate the motorized valves (zone valves) and then the boiler comes on. When temperature is satisfied the zone valve closes and kills the boiler and keeps it off until required. You would be surprised how much fuel you would save. Danfoss and Sunvic do 2 zone packs.

Micky Dolenz

JohnnieK wrote: »

Hi Kodac

You will need two motorized zone valves, one cylinder stat, one room temperature stat and a 2 channel programmer and a wiring centre. This sounds more complicated then it really is.

You can get radio controlled packs that have remote stats.

In a nutshell everything is wired back and linked in the wiring centre. First in the sequence is the fused spur witch provides the power, then the programmer, then the stats, the stats operate the motorized valves (zone valves) and then the boiler comes on. When temperature is satisfied the zone valve closes and kills the boiler and keeps it off until required. You would be surprised how much fuel you would save. Danfoss and Sunvic do 2 zone packs.

and don't forget your automatic bypass vavle, once all zones are shut the pump will need to pump somewhere.

kodak

Thanks lads, My mate was out and gave the boiler the once over. The nozzle is the smallest one at .55

I decided to go for the control pack too, as the timer is on the blink a little and seems a good time to do it..

So I narrowed it down to the Sunvic xls or the danfoss hpp

Both are two port and the sunvic is about 45 euro more expensive than the danfoss.

Anybody recommend either?

dualfuel

0.55 nozzle is to small for a firebird 23-35> go to the website and download the manual.