New side markings with doe

-Corkie-

Hope im in the right spot.

IM testing a few tipper trucks soon. I have the normal type side and back markings which need replacing. I purchased two rolls of the new yellow and red reflective markings.

My question is do i need to use to remove the old type markings if i am to use the new type as i will be running the marking the whole length of the body and up the sides to make it nice looking and more visible looking.

Some one told me i will fail the test if i use both (old type and new) if i remove all the old type the trucks will look stupid as their is a special panel along the body for the old type.

Hope im not confusing now

cheers

Slidey

Put bluntly, it all depends on the test station you go to.

The answer to your question is that you cannot have both types on the truck. It should be one or the other.

Some testers enforce it. Some don't

-Corkie-

Sound job so i will have to take of the old ones so. Are the old ones still legal.... Its gas to think that you would fail the test for having too much markings. Maybe ill just go with the old style cheers

Slidey

Yep, the old ones are still legal.

It may well be worth your while to change them. The new ones will not fade over time and are way stickier so less likely to peel off. The also look a lot neater.

-Corkie-

Yes the new ones are sexier allrite. I see theres white and yellow. I know the red is for the back allrite. Whats the differ in white and yellow as i see trucks with both colours on the side.

Slidey

You can have either colour on the side, it's your own preference.

-Corkie-

Good man thanks for that i owe you one..... Start ripping torque arm bushings tomorrow anyway. How exciting:P

Slidey

I don't envy ya.... how is the bogey bushes? :P

Sitec

Must be Hinos!

-Corkie-

Their not to bad actually i normally squirt a bit of grease under the saddle to stop the friction. Im going to put shims in between the hanger on the axle and the side of the spring to lessen the movement.... Theres 340k on her now of hard work and it hasnt cost me a bob. Ill prob change the bogey bushings next time...

-Corkie-

Sitec wrote: »

Must be Hinos!

Put away that crystal ball:D:D

Slidey

SARASON wrote: »

Their not to bad actually i normally squirt a bit of grease under the saddle to stop the friction. Im going to put shims in between the hanger on the axle and the side of the spring to lessen the movement.... Theres 340k on her now of hard work and it hasnt cost me a bob. Ill prob change the bogey bushings next time...

Ah yeah, cutting a bit off an old spring leaf and welding it between the spring and the guide tightens them up a bit alright.

Good on ya for doing your own work.

Taking out the old bogey bushes can be a pain as the brass stops the cutting torch from getting a clean run. A lot of the time the damage is actually on the trunion bar anyway.

-Corkie-

Ya doing your own work is a must. Main dealers and garages cost a fortune i used to use them during good times but found that some work wasnt been done and you still getting charged top dollar for it. I enjoy doing workin on the lorries. Its a nice way to spend a saturday or sunday, beats going to tescos with herself:D.

A mate broke the bogie shaft on his one a few weeks ago, cost a fortune to fix it. I think harris sells a kit for doing them not sure what you get but i think you give in the old bogey as far as i know.

Slidey

I took one down years ago, horrible job. All the bolts had come loose and the shaft was fairly badly worn.

The bosses in their wisdom decided to build it up with weld and grind it down. Think the heat got to it as it broke a very short time later.

If you put an even run of weld on the inside of the bogey housing where the big spacer runs against it, it pushes the housing out a 1/4 of an inch and moves it out from the worst wear on the shaft

-Corkie-

Oh do it that would save a fella from changing them if that worked i know a few good welders so thats good to know...

Sitec

If you have access to a press you can do the Trunion Bushings handy enough. In the garage i used to work in we used to do loads of them for owners repairing them themselfs. We'd only charge about €20 for pressing out the old ones and pressing in the new ones.

Worth keeping in mind if you have a friendly dealer near by.;)

-Corkie-

20 god thats cheap, are they the torque are bushings???. The fella i go to charges 50 for pressing the 8 of them. Its a balls of a place as its a one man show and he will keep going away from the job.... Takes nearly 2 hours to do it:rolleyes:

Slidey

Don't forget the top 4!

-Corkie-

I know!!! i checked them i think they will be ok.. god its some whore of a job getting the top four off... Tis a great way of taking the skin of the hands:)

-Corkie-

Had to change all 12 bushings on friday including the two front brake chambers for the front drive axle. The bogey on the lhs is all cracked and ready to break. I got one yesterday is it a big job to put this in, Like do you have to take the spring out.

A simple doe job has jumped to 1000 euro allready:rolleyes:

Slidey

Is it the bogey bar or the housing that the spring sits into?

If it just the housing you don't have to take out the spring, just take out the U bolts and let the jack down a little. It will come out and clear the spring, I can't remember if it will clear the wheels. I think you will need to take one set off at least

-Corkie-

Slidey wrote: »

Is it the bogey bar or the housing that the spring sits into?

If it just the housing you don't have to take out the spring, just take out the U bolts and let the jack down a little. It will come out and clear the spring, I can't remember if it will clear the wheels. I think you will need to take one set off at least

Its the housing only thank god. Thanks for that. I can take of one set anyway as they need to be turned anyway. I should have invited yourself and sitec to cork for the weekend:D

-Corkie-

Well lads i tested one during the week and it failed on a brake imbalance on the first and third axle. The hubs are hot on both sides on the front. I also put 2 new chambers on the third (handbrake) axle but that had an imbalance too. How do i sort this out

Slidey

Footbrake or handbrake or both?

New linings fitted? Old drums?

I take it they were all adjusted up? Are the slack adjusters winding off by themselves? Is there a strong resistance felt when you try to wind them back?

-Corkie-

Both footbrake and handbrake. No new linings or drums fitted but put two new chambers on the third axle. I didnt touch the adjusters as my knowledge dont go that far!!. I think they wind themselves

Slidey

Have you got the readings there?

I would imagine they need adjusting up so if the linings are still good. 12 spanner, air up, jack up the wheel off the ground and tighten the adjuster nut til the wheel won't turn. Then back until the wheel will turn, generally that is about 1/4 of a turn.

It is the older model Hino with the slack adjusters? The newer ones have wedge brakes and are fantastic when the work but a pain in the arse when they don't..

gofaster_s13

Slidey wrote: »

Have you got the readings there?

I would imagine they need adjusting up so if the linings are still good. 12 spanner, air up, jack up the wheel off the ground and tighten the adjuster nut til the wheel won't turn. Then back until the wheel will turn, generally that is about 1/4 of a turn.

It is the older model Hino with the slack adjusters? The newer ones have wedge brakes and are fantastic when the work but a pain in the arse when because they don't..

-Corkie-

Slidey wrote: »

Have you got the readings there?

I would imagine they need adjusting up so if the linings are still good. 12 spanner, air up, jack up the wheel off the ground and tighten the adjuster nut til the wheel won't turn. Then back until the wheel will turn, generally that is about 1/4 of a turn.

It is the older model Hino with the slack adjusters? The newer ones have wedge brakes and are fantastic when the work but a pain in the arse when they don't..

I took of the hub and linings/hub were like new after 350k. I levered the lining out of the way and turned each end of the adjuster twice. I replaced a chamber on the back and she passed with flying colours. Overall braking capacity comes in at 82%. Not bad since only had third axle linings changed once. I like the retarder:)

Slidey

Good stuff.

It has the wedge brakes so. You wouldn't get 80% on the older type the day it left the factory!

-Corkie-

Slidey wrote: »

Good stuff.

It has the wedge brakes so. You wouldn't get 80% on the older type the day it left the factory!

I know i think the brakes are too good at times when you jump in to a 124 scania you could rear end a car easily they are so soft. Go back to my 700 then and you look like a pleb shaking the cab with the erratic braking:D...