Trooper engine change

Fishtits

Here's one for Slidey et al

Engine change for a 3.0 Trooper to a 3.1, speedo not working.

What needs to be done?

Buford T Justice

Fishtits wrote: »

Here's one for Slidey et al

Engine change for a 3.0 Trooper to a 3.1, speedo not working.

What needs to be done?

First off, whats the year of the Jeep?

If its an old jeeb, is it a cable Speedo, or is it controlled Digitally?

Gary ITR

Fishtits wrote: »

Here's one for Slidey et al

Engine change for a 3.0 Trooper to a 3.1, speedo not working.

What needs to be done?

Details details details

Slidey

Did you put in the 3.1 gearbox along with the engine?

Fishtits

I am chasing this one on behalf of a mate who was asked by a customer. So apologise in advance for any delay in coming back with details.

Donor vehicle:

’98 3.1 engine code 69 year code V (‘97?)

Receiver:

’00 3.0, engine code 73 (4JX1?) year code X (‘99?)

Engine and box transplanted as a complete unit. Both G/boxes reportedly have electrical speed sensors.

I’ve downloaded a manual and had a quick look, if the signal wire (Lt GN/WH) from the VSS was connected directly to the input wire (WH/BK) for the speedo does it work?

What about the rev counter? It seems on the 3.0 it was driven by a square wave pattern from the PCM, how is the 3.1 operated? (From memory there is no W output on these alternators) Would swapping the dash assemblies simplify matters?

Cheers.

Fishtits

Can't believe this hasn't been done before...

Will report back on findings.

Drummerboy08

Fishtits wrote: »

Can't believe this hasn't been done before...

Will report back on findings.

The reason its not as common as you think is because Izuzu offered anyone who experienced engine failure in a Trooper the chance to change into a brand new D-Max for buttons, rather than simply replacing the dodgy engines.

I'd imagine the majority of people who experience engine trouble with the Trooper went down this road. Might explain the mountain of used Troopers sitting in Harris Izuzu on the Naas road.

Slidey

Ah but that is only a very recent thing. That has only started in the last month.

People have made the change but I have never seen one. I believe that Kanes in Edgeworthstown have done quite a few, might be worth chancing a phone call.

Fishtits

Had a guy from the local test centre in on Friday, he's seen several conversions through the test, obviously with speedo working.

I'll sort this and report back.

Drummer, the deal you mention is a recent one and is conditional on being VAT registered.

Drummerboy08

Sorry, thought it went back longer than that. Izuzu was never my main seller anyhow!

Fishtits

Sorted.

If you swap the 3.1 for the 3.0 you use the 3.1 engine/transmission loom. this will leave some connector blocks unused when the E/T loom is joined to the body loom near the inlet manifold. In a nutshell not all the wires that need to be connected will be connected. Basically all you need to do is find the relevant wires and join them manually.

The signal wire for the speedo is light green with a white tracer, pick it up from the body loom join it to the same colour wire on the E/T loom, where it comes from the speed sensor. At the same time you will need to provide an earth (black/red) and a switched positive (blue/yellow) to the speed sensor.

Cheers

Slidey

Thanks for the update.

Handy to know.

Darsad

As the notoriously troublesome 3.0 is common rail and has a bulky ECm under the hood will the 3.1 run without the need for cam or crank signals
and just a live to the back of the fuel pump.

Slidey

Aye. 3.1 is basic mechanical simplicity in all its reliable and working goodness.

Fishtits

I'd still like to know how the Tacho/rpm is generated by the 3.1...

Apparently its unsolvable.

B*llocks.

Cheers,

Melodeon

Fishtits wrote: »

I'd still like to know how the Tacho/rpm is generated by the 3.1...

Apparently its unsolvable.

B*llocks.

Cheers,

Probably a signal from the alternator.


added:
I'm vaguely remembering that most alternator tachometer connections are usually a spade connector marked with a 'W'; is there anything like that on your alternator?