Vittoria Pitstop

tri111

In relation to Vittoria Pitstop and fixing tubular tyre punctures, can anyone whose used this before tell me exactly how it works?

I understand it's a type of sealant but do you simply apply it to the tubular tyre where you've got the puncture and then you can inflate the tyre with a CO2 cartridge? Is that correct or is there more to it?

Chips Lovell

It's pretty simple. You apply it, spin the wheel a few times and away you go. There is enough CO2 along with sealant to get the tyre pretty much inflated, although you may need to top it up a little with a frame pump.

I've used it a bit. In my experience, it only works about half of the time. It's great when it does work because you're back on the bike in less than a minute. But for bigger cuts I would just change the tube.

I've bought a few bottles of Stans sealant that I'm going to try out this year but haven't had the occassion to try it yet.

blorg

tri111 wrote: »

I understand it's a type of sealant but do you simply apply it to the tubular tyre where you've got the puncture and then you can inflate the tyre with a CO2 cartridge? Is that correct or is there more to it?

No, the sealant goes in the valve (along with the gas to inflate.) Technically I think the inflation gas is propane rather than CO2 so it leaks out even faster than CO2 does but enough for the rest of the day.

Certainly worth a shot, I am not looking forward to replacing a tub at the side of the road.

Lumen

blorg wrote: »

Certainly worth a shot, I am not looking forward to replacing a tub at the side of the road.

On the subject of tubs, I was in Cycleogical today (getting my Powertap freehub replaced) and they have some very nice looking 50mm FFWDs for €900 a set. Very decent price, cheaper than the FFWD site. Dave (I think) said he trained and raced on tubs all last year and got only two punctures. He reckoned roadside tub replacement was easy, even with a properly glued tyre (didn't rate the tape having rolled a taped one coming down the Tourmalet).

tunney

Lumen wrote: »

On the subject of tubs, I was in Cycleogical today (getting my Powertap freehub replaced) and they have some very nice looking 50mm FFWDs for €900 a set. Very decent price, cheaper than the FFWD site. Dave (I think) said he trained and raced on tubs all last year and got only two punctures. He reckoned roadside tub replacement was easy, even with a properly glued tyre (didn't rate the tape having rolled a taped one coming down the Tourmalet).

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, TOOO MUCH GLUEEEEEEEEEE

(Norman Stadler, roadside, Kona)

I've always found Dave to be full of it when trying to make a sale.

blorg

Mine have an unholy amount of glue on them as far as I can make out... I have seen estimates of 20 minutes hard work to get properly glued tubs off the rims.

They are meant to be more puncture resistant all right- impossible to pinch flat and IIRC there may be some other reason also. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Lumen

tunney wrote: »

I've always found Dave to be full of it when trying to make a sale.

Well possibly, but he wasn't exactly pushy about them.

tunney

blorg wrote: »

Mine have an unholy amount of glue on them as far as I can make out... I have seen estimates of 20 minutes hard work to get properly glued tubs off the rims.

They are meant to be more puncture resistant all right- impossible to pinch flat and IIRC there may be some other reason also. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Too much glue increases hysteresis and this increases the rolling resistance and slows the tyre, very very thing layers of glue are what you want.

Lumen

blorg wrote: »

Mine have an unholy amount of glue on them as far as I can make out... I have seen estimates of 20 minutes hard work to get properly glued tubs off the rims.

I dimly recall from a video that the trick is to leave some glue off around the valve so you can get some leverage.

But if your tubs are already glued all the way round then that's not going to help.

Chips Lovell

blorg wrote: »

I am not looking forward to replacing a tub at the side of the road.

Bring a bottle of acetone in one of your cages. Just remember which bottle to drink from during the race.

niceonetom

Lumen wrote: »

On the subject of tubs, I was in Cycleogical today (getting my Powertap freehub replaced) and they have some very nice looking 50mm FFWDs for €900 a set. Very decent price, cheaper than the FFWD site. Dave (I think) said he trained and raced on tubs all last year and got only two punctures. He reckoned roadside tub replacement was easy, even with a properly glued tyre (didn't rate the tape having rolled a taped one coming down the Tourmalet).

dario28 wrote: »

If you want a lesson on clinchers v tubs go to cyclogical on bachlors walk - I read this thread earlier and didnt know anything ,went with my mate looking for a bike for him and asked the guy whats difference , 10 mins later after an awesome demo & explanation I know everything.....

My answer after my lesson ...Clinchers !

Seems to make a difference who you talk to in cyclogical.

Having spent a week listening to our guide's Boras in Spain, my yen for tubs is strong. They'll be my first purchase after I get a team car.

blorg

tunney wrote: »

Too much glue increases hysteresis and this increases the rolling resistance and slows the tyre, very very thing layers of glue are what you want.

They were glued by Columbia HTC's mechanics, so I can only presume they know what they were doing. Point is they are pretty securely attached. The lengthy leaflet I got with my spare tyre (with _several_ pauses of >8 and >10 hours) looks like an interesting process all right. Tape is tempting but I have invested in a ludicrous number of Vittoria Mastik so guess I should give it a go.

I am skeptical that the RR difference would be significant to be honest.

niceonetom wrote: »

Having spent a week listening to our guide's Boras in Spain, my yen for tubs is strong. They'll be my first purchase after I get a team car.

There was certainly no problem hearing him whenever he tried a sneaky attack! Straight on to that wheel.

Beasty

Saw the thread title and thought it was some relation to ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMtA8ahAwDI

gman2k

tri111 wrote: »

In relation to Vittoria Pitstop and fixing tubular tyre punctures, can anyone whose used this before tell me exactly how it works?

I understand it's a type of sealant but do you simply apply it to the tubular tyre where you've got the puncture and then you can inflate the tyre with a CO2 cartridge? Is that correct or is there more to it?

This is how it's meant to work.

I have my tubs pretreated with Stans, so (hopefully) won't have to sue the Vittoria Pitstop.

tri111

gman2k wrote: »

I have my tubs pretreated with Stans, so (hopefully) won't have to sue the Vittoria Pitstop.

Did you get this done in a bike shop or do it yourself? Where can you buy that Stan's stuff here, haven't seen it in any shop?

tunney

tri111 wrote: »

Did you get this done in a bike shop or do it yourself? Where can you buy that Stan's stuff here, haven't seen it in any shop?

Why would you want to turn a fast tyre into a slow tyre?

blorg

tunney wrote: »

Why would you want to turn a fast tyre into a slow tyre?

Probably because the RR really doesn't matter that much in the scheme of things but if you puncture, for most people, your race is over?

victorcarrera

tri111 wrote: »

In relation to Vittoria Pitstop and fixing tubular tyre punctures, can anyone whose used this before tell me exactly how it works?
I understand it's a type of sealant but do you simply apply it to the tubular tyre where you've got the puncture and then you can inflate the tyre with a CO2 cartridge? Is that correct or is there more to it?

The Utube video posted earlier just about explains it except that it is recomended to inject sealant at 12O'Clock and not 6 as shown. This enables the sealant to get to the puncture before the propane escapes.

The main difference between Pit Stop and other sealants is that you don't need to remove the valve core to inject it and if you are lucky it will inflate the tube at the same time.
With Joes or Stans sealants you will need to carry a valve extractor as these (thicker) sealants wont pass through the valve.
In general from what I have read sealants will work for most punctures up to 2mm and some have reported success up to 5mm.
It is claimed that sealants offer up to 3 months protection from getting new punctures after date of installation therefore you can pre install it and it might get you through half the season.
The road racing pit stop can is 160 mm long so if you use deep section rims greater than 50mm pit stop will only fit (straight) on a valve extender of less than 100mm.
If you google it and read the forums, it seems to get mixed reviews.
Its hassle free, light and easy to carry in a pocket. So when I ride on tubs the only puncture repair I carry is pit stop and phone.

gman2k

tunney wrote: »

Why would you want to turn a fast tyre into a slow tyre?

How does using Stans turn a fast tyre into a slow one?:rolleyes:
It's minimal weight addition.
See how slow a punctured tyre (tub in this case) runs.

gman2k

victorcarrera wrote: »

With Joes or Stans sealants you will need to carry a valve extractor as these (thicker) sealants wont pass through the valve.

Yes, but the Stans pre-treatment is done at home before you ride the tubs in the first place. There is no kit to bring with you as you ride.

PS the valve extractor for at home use can be bought - Stans do one, but a needle nose pliers does the same job.
If you are going to pretreat your tubs with Stans, I recommend using the Stans injector, and even at that it can get a little messy!

victorcarrera

gman2k wrote: »

How does using Stans turn a fast tyre into a slow one?:rolleyes:
It's minimal weight addition.
See how slow a punctured tyre (tub in this case) runs.

This refers to the 20g or so of sealant required to treat each tube.
This is quite significant to some.

The only other info I can add here is that this product is listed in CRC but unavailable to ROI residents. It is however available in Cyclesuperstore for 9.99 Euro collection or an additional 9.95 shipping FFS.
A tenner is an expensive puncture repair when you could be rescued for free by a mate. If I'm running tubs I will usually pair off with a mate for rescue at races and only carry the pit stop.

tunney

blorg wrote: »

Probably because the RR really doesn't matter that much in the scheme of things but if you puncture, for most people, your race is over?

It's not just the CRR that's affected there is the rotational weight and also the ride quality. If you're that concerned with avoiding punctures then ride clinchers with Conti Gatorskins.

blorg

tunney wrote: »

If you're that concerned with avoiding punctures then ride clinchers with Conti Gatorskins.

oOoOh uncalled for. Must say the Zipps are phenomenal so far, really feel fantastic.Wheter it is the wheels or tubs I am not sure.