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Random RROD 0021's since flashing iX LT or XBR...

  • 10-02-2010 4:51am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭


    This one's got me a bit baffled. I've not put XBR through it's paces since I flashed it a week ago, but around the same time I've also flashed iXtreme LT to the LiteOn drive (83450 v1). Periodically, I'm experiencing a 3 RROD with secondary error code 0021 - DVD Drive Timeout.

    It goes like this (starting from console off, warm or cold):

    1) Turn on console, no video feed, no 4-green circle of success
    2) Turn off console again, wondering wtf is up
    -- Sometimes, I just got three RROD's in a row :D
    3) Turn on console, 3 RROD with 0021
    4) Turn off console
    5) Turn on console, success, we've got XBR Dash (w00t!)

    This 0021 could also be a southbridge problem from what I read, but it is occuring when the console is cold (once) or warm (twice) and has occured 3 times in 15-20 boots. Also, a simple turn off & back on immediately is all that is needed to remedy the situation.

    The first time it happened I got two RROD's in a row, so I unplugged the DVD drive ..powered up straight away after that. Put power & data cable back into drive, problem fixed itself.

    I'm at a slight loss really because the box is a fresh refurb, I powered it on once before flashing XBR to it (check the dash version). I've not played any games on it or given it a proper run through at all, on the official dash or the XBR dash.

    The box seems stable once it's up and running, been left on a few hours in XeXMenu v1.1 while I monitored temps because I'm adjusting my fanspeed for optimum cooling/dBA :D

    I can live with this little chain of events if it's just something that happens, but if there's an underlying thing I did then I'd like a do-over.

    I know I can re-flash stock LiteOn, but can I re-flash 2.0.7371 (Official Dashboard) from the nand dumps I took? Will it error out because of the R6T3 removal?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Cant say Ive anything to help you with, but could it be a bad solder point somewhere? Or do you feel its purely dvd drive related?

    I suppose the only thing to do is start eliminating things one by one, maybe remove that nice little rj45 you have done, and run the console again.

    Its a VERY sad day when a 360 red rings, and even sadder when its jtag'ed!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,262 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Rule out the variables, Easiest ones first.

    Easiest one is the DVD drive, stick in a different DVD drive (heck you dont even need to flash in with the right key)

    If you think its a heat issue maybe give it some external heat (like a hair dryer ot something)

    After that things get a little more complicated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    I think I'll reflash stock LiteOn first, I will admit I did have a little bit of trouble with powering the drive on & off within one second during the flash, it took several attempts and I didn't quite know what I was at.

    If that doesn't fix it I'll swap out the DVD drive and take it from there. I have all the keys anyways, CPU key, DVD key, KV etc ;)

    EnterNow, I've checked the continuity on those solder points upwards of 10 times during the course of the mod just to be sure as it was the first mod I did so I don't think so. I'd remove the LPT reader only after a few other options have been explored.

    Cheers lads, I hope this one isn't a lost cause ..I had watercooling and case modding planned for my JTAG :(


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Take out the Drive altogether if it still 0021s its most likely the southbridge. I fixed one before by heatguning the southbridge chip.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Well it's not the DVD drive, I took it out and the machine still RRODs ...

    I'm getting random error codes like 0020 and 0021, never a 0102 yet though.

    When it RRODs it appears there is a problem initialising the CPU, because leaving it RRODing for a while resulted in the GPU heatsink being moderately hot (60C or so) and the CPU heatsink wasn't warm at all.

    All RRODs appear to go away after one or two restarts, leading me to believe that this could be an XBR problem, there is another thread on xbox-scene that is very similar to my symptoms apart from the need to eject the disc tray before loading a game off the hard drive.

    I've noticed there is a significant delay from power on to getting the green ring of "all clear" and a video/sound feed - 5 seconds minimum, about 10-12 seconds maximum. This is significant because a regular console boots up within 5, usually around 3 seconds or so.

    I'm going to take a nand dump of the console and compare it to the xbr.bin that I flashed to make sure they are the same.

    Following that I'm going to re-solder my points. I am already using a 203W power supply that green lights all the time, so that isn't the issue either. It occurs with or without a hard drive, with or without peripherals, so they can be ruled out.

    I should add that I might have a look at doing something else like re-mapping that bad block (block 42 I think), I havn't done anything with it. I'll probably do my flashing from XeLL from now on...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Flashed Xellous to the nand, no luck there either. Errors are 0021 or 0020 all the time, never anything different so far.

    I flashed the original MS dashboard back, still RRODing the odd time on power up. Again, this isn't a perma error, it's just bugging the crap out of me.

    I'm gonna undo the wiring now, leaving it on the original dashboard. Just to see if it's my soldering, but I have my doubts (my resistance numbers on J1F1 and J2F2 match up with those posted over at Xbox Hackers)....

    Really hoping I don't have to take a heatgun to this thing :p


    *Edit* So I removed the JTAG and Nand Reader wires and after 50 restarts it still hasn't given me an RROD when it usually does within 20 restarts. I wonder if I used a faulty diode, I know my soldering was clean, I tested the continuity about six times per joint...

    *scratches head* :confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    At least you have the area of issue identified, & ruled out a genuine rrod problem. Re-do the jtag with new diodes, maybe the heat from soldering has damaged a diode and your getting current leak?

    Get well soon jtag'ed xbox!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Replaced both diodes and the jumper wire, no joy there. First boot ended up with a 0021.

    Multimetering the voltages corresponds with what was posted over at XBH. I do note that one time I think I multimetered on a RROD and saw the voltages were way off (0v on a 3.3v, and 3.3v on a 0v).

    I've swapped to the 330ohm method on J1F1 pins 3,4 and 5 (running to J2D2 pins 1,2 and 4 respectively). I don't have 330ohm resistors, only 100ohms so I'm running them in series to bump it to 300ohms, that's good enough according to a couple of the guys.

    Can't make the bugger RROD any more either, which is a good sign.

    I'm gonna leave the resistors in, hook up the LPT nand reader again and flash XeLLous/XBR later this evening. Then I'll shove it back into the case and give it a proper test.

    Frustrating, but still fun :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    And the saga is over. I've swapped the diodes for the 330ohm resistor method (well, 300ohm) and I've not had an RROD since. Dirty voltage or whatever was the culprit...

    I haz won the game? :D

    I've got a vulnerable Jasper as my backup if the Xenon fails, so I'm covered. Phew!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Well done, glad to hear the patient has pulled through :p

    Its a b*tch having to have a certain Kernel...I wonder if a universal exploit will ever be discovered...


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 jamie321


    This one's got me a bit baffled. I've not put XBR through it's paces since I flashed it a week ago, but around the same time I've also flashed iXtreme LT to the LiteOn drive (83450 v1). Periodically, I'm experiencing a 3 RROD with secondary error code 0021 - DVD Drive Timeout.

    It goes like this (starting from console off, warm or cold):

    1) Turn on console, no video feed, no 4-green circle of success
    2) Turn off console again, wondering wtf is up
    -- Sometimes, I just got three RROD's in a row :D
    3) Turn on console, 3 RROD with 0021
    4) Turn off console
    5) Turn on console, success, we've got XBR Dash (w00t!)



    This 0021 could also be a southbridge problem from what I read, but it is occuring when the console is cold (once) or warm (twice) and has occured 3 times in 15-20 boots. Also, a simple turn off & back on immediately is all that is needed to remedy the situation.

    The first time it happened I got two RROD's in a row, so I unplugged the DVD drive ..powered up straight away after that. Put power & data cable back into drive, problem fixed itself.

    I'm at a slight loss really because the box is a fresh refurb, I powered it on once before flashing XBR to it (check the dash version). I've not played any games on it or given it a proper run through at all, on the official dash or the XBR dash.

    The box seems stable once it's up and running, been left on a few hours in XeXMenu v1.1 while I monitored temps because I'm adjusting my fanspeed for optimum cooling/dBA :D

    I can live with this little chain of events if it's just something that happens, but if there's an underlying thing I did then I'd like a do-over.

    I know I can re-flash stock LiteOn, but can I re-flash 2.0.7371 (Official Dashboard) from the nand dumps I took? Will it error out because of the R6T3 removal?

    Im having the same problem/ well sort of the same. i removed the xclamps from my brand new jtag (i know) and now when i swithch on the xbr console. i get 3 rrod. but only when its cold????? i switch it off at the power button and back on and its fine and stays fine all day.
    i removed my dvd drive and get the same 3 rrod, but only when its cold (ie it hasnt been on for a good 5 hours).
    i panicked and am thinking its me removing the clamps and redoing the paste with artic, i didnt overtighten the motherboard screws but did tighten the heatsink replacemant screws quite tight.


    YOU ARE NOT ALONE!!!! lol


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Loosen up the screws. Jasper JTAG isn't known to be very stable just yet. Random RRODs can be attributed to the JTAG/XBR so there's nothing to worry about really, it just annoyed me


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 jamie321


    Loosen up the screws. Jasper JTAG isn't known to be very stable just yet. Random RRODs can be attributed to the JTAG/XBR so there's nothing to worry about really, it just annoyed me
    I had spoken to a guy in the local computer shop, he said tighten them!! LOL, so i tightened the heatsinks FT and removed all the motherboard screws (in case of warping causing the rrod) anyway no rrod this morning, my chipset is falcon (machine was brand new to me) thanks for your help.STA75746.JPG

    i think im being a bit paranoid with this, but best to be safe than sorry! USB powered. LOL. the gpu doesnt get hot at all now. fans supplied via nec laptop and ps3 external cooling usb fan.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore


    jamie321 wrote: »
    I had spoken to a guy in the local computer shop, he said tighten them!! LOL, so i tightened the heatsinks FT and removed all the motherboard screws (in case of warping causing the rrod) anyway no rrod this morning, my chipset is falcon (machine was brand new to me) thanks for your help.STA75746.JPG

    i think im being a bit paranoid with this, but best to be safe than sorry! USB powered. LOL. the gpu doesnt get hot at all now. fans supplied via nec laptop and ps3 external cooling usb fan.

    how many washers do you have between the board and heatsinks? If the xbox never rroded use exactly THREE 1mm washers. If you use two or less you going to bend the board and it will eventually rrod.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 jamie321


    docentore wrote: »
    how many washers do you have between the board and heatsinks? If the xbox never rroded use exactly THREE 1mm washers. If you use two or less you going to bend the board and it will eventually rrod.

    2 washers under the heat sinks, 2 under the board, 1 spring 1 normal, will it rrod even if i leave the screws out of the motherboard, as i thought that it was the board bending that could be a problem.
    1 used:
    10mm m5 flathead bolts
    24 1mm washers
    8 spring washers.
    .
    so do i still need 3 washers even though no screws are securing the motherboard? thanks in advance. (it had never rrodded until i removed clamps) or should i just put the clamps back on?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore


    jamie321 wrote: »
    2 washers under the heat sinks, 2 under the board, 1 spring 1 normal, will it rrod even if i leave the screws out of the motherboard, as i thought that it was the board bending that could be a problem.
    1 used:
    10mm m5 flathead bolts
    24 1mm washers
    8 spring washers.
    .
    so do i still need 3 washers even though no screws are securing the motherboard? thanks in advance. (it had never rrodded until i removed clamps) or should i just put the clamps back on?

    no, don't use xclamps now. The reason that everyone use 2 washers between hs and mobo is to put more presure on the gpu so it can connect to mobo. You don't need that as it is not broken yet and the original distance is around 3mm.

    Does your bolts touch the metal cage? I mean when you install the mobo in the cage does it lay on the cage or the bolts? If on the bolts you need to:
    1. find the bolts with small enough head that they wont be touching the cage
    or
    2. drill holes big enough to fit the bolts through


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 jamie321


    docentore wrote: »
    no, don't use xclamps now. The reason that everyone use 2 washers between hs and mobo is to put more presure on the gpu so it can connect to mobo. You don't need that as it is not broken yet and the original distance is around 3mm.

    Does your bolts touch the metal cage? I mean when you install the mobo in the cage does it lay on the cage or the bolts? If on the bolts you need to:
    1. find the bolts with small enough head that they wont be touching the cage
    or
    2. drill holes big enough to fit the bolts through
    Ive been getting so much conflicting info.(tighten/slacken/handtight/torque wrench)(1 washer, 3 washers, hybrid fix, no washers, nylon/steel) I dont know which way to turn LOL! and my head is hurting:confused:
    ive put the clamps back on for now and will do the 3 washer trick when i get my kit.
    i wasnt using nylon washers (is that naughty?)


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