Re-assembling a JG G36C gearbox

Fireborn

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows where to get a strong magnet from in ireland?

Would woodies do them?

I ask cos im trying to rebuild my G36C gearbox and the trigger and the anitreversal latch is doing my nut in.

Cheers

Sam

Leftyflip

Use some silicone grease for the anti-reversal latch, works everytime. For the trigger block, assemble it outside of the mechbox and locate the spring in the hole (been ages since I've opened one, don't rembember exactly what its like) and then position the trigger and block in place, with a bit of patience and a steady hand you should get it no problem.

Fireborn

Silicone grease? where should i put it and how does that stop it springing out?

Masada

Stick the anti reversal latch into its location and rotate the gears backwards until it actually latches, it'll hold it in place,.

for the trigger, install the spring first and then put together the two pieces of the trigger, and then into the gearbox. hold your finger on that while your closing the shell.,

Leftyflip

Fireborn wrote: »

Silicone grease? where should i put it and how does that stop it springing out?

Put it on the part of the anti-reversal latch that locates in the hole, it stops it springing out as it holds it in, you'll see why, but it doesn't affect the function of it.

MacAonghusa

Fireborn wrote: »

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows where to get a strong magnet from in ireland?

Would woodies do them?

I ask cos im trying to rebuild my G36C gearbox and the trigger and the anitreversal latch is doing my nut in.

Cheers

Sam

I feel your pain! It's seriously badly designed, IMO.

This is how I managed it (last time I took it apart and swore i'd never do it again)
- plenty of grease on the anti reversal latch and rotate the gears so everything sits is in the right position
- put in trigger spring and place trigger parts in roughly the right position
- put in spring, compress it and place it into position
- if the main spring won't sit in place hold it while putting on the other mech box half, need to do some finger repositioning during this process
- it's only when I have the two halves together that i'd slider the trigger into position and lock everything down.

Not a great guide but hope it helps...

Fireborn

Yeah I did it that way.

Glad I waited to replace all the parts i wanted to as opposed to taking it apart multiple times. Gave it new bushings, a shim job, downgraded the spring and replace the air nozzle. re-lubed that bad boy.

Shoots at 280 now cos its an M80 spring. went a bit too low on the gauge, but still, 280 feet in a second is considerably faster than me lol. Sounds much better too. now just need to set the hop up.

Though i have to say, the G36 magazines are beginning to piss me off. just impossible to get pouches that fit properly.

MacAonghusa

Fireborn wrote: »

Though i have to say, the G36 magazines are beginning to piss me off. just impossible to get pouches that fit properly.

BE-X make a good range of gear, the pouches hold two G36 mags. Most other pouches are tight so I generally go with 1 mag per pouch. Since most vests/rigs seem to have 4 pouches it should be plenty. How much ammo do you need to carry?

Shiva

Fireborn wrote: »

Shoots at 280 now cos its an M80 spring. went a bit too low on the gauge, but still, 280 feet in a second is considerably faster than me lol. Sounds much better too. now just need to set the hop up.

A good hopup in there and you're sorted.

I've seen a 250 fps JG stubby killer outrange a VFC Scar shooting at 320 fps by a long shot, because there was a decent hopup rubber installed.

Leftyflip

Shiva wrote: »

I've seen a 250 fps JG stubby killer outrange a VFC Scar shooting at 320 fps by a long shot, because there was a decent hopup rubber installed.

Was there a lipo taped to the side?

Shiva

Leftyflip wrote: »

Was there a lipo taped to the side?

No. No boxmag either

Leftyflip

Shiva wrote: »

No. No boxmag either

Oh thank God for that!

Shiva

Leftyflip wrote: »

Oh thank God for that!

Just to mess with your head a little bit, and maybe make you even throw up a little in your mouth.....I have a picture of an M4 I wanna show you.

Might take me awhile to find it, but I'll post it here when I do

Leftyflip

Shiva wrote: »

Just to mess with your head a little bit, and maybe make you even throw up a little in your mouth.....I have a picture of an M4 I wanna show you.

Might take me awhile to find it, but I'll post it here when I do

*Braces self*

Shiva

Not going to embed it, cos its so offensive....but here it is -

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3360615271_a647506f5a_b.jpg

And the really sickening part ? Its not airsoft. Its real.

Leftyflip

*There is a lack of words to explain it*

Fireborn

Shiva wrote: »

A good hopup in there and you're sorted.

I've seen a 250 fps JG stubby killer outrange a VFC Scar shooting at 320 fps by a long shot, because there was a decent hopup rubber installed.

I popped a guarder 50% hop up bucking onto a prometheus tightbore. should be grand. Shame im much too noob to get the best out of it, need to spend a couple hours at the range to zero that bad boy.

Still, think next on the list after a leg holster might well be a M4 purely because the mag's fit in my CIRAS properly, but that'll be getting on for May/June before that.

Must admit, I really, really enjoyed taking apart, and putting back together the gearbox. Fiddly as it was, theres just something satisfying knowing how stuff works and how to fix it. Can well see the draw of being a gun technician in a shop.

Sam

Phractal

Fireborn: What exactly did you do to yours? I am going (finally) upgrading mine... Again... Soon.

I was thinking new bushing bearings, Element gearset, G&P M120 motor, MOSFET w/ active braking... Guarder Clear hop, Prommy carrel, new air nozzle & piston head... Rewire... Etc. I have most of the bits kicking around, just wondering about how far you went with upgrading yours.

Masada

The gears that are in it are the same stuff as Element, no point in installing them.,

Fireborn

I put G&G 6mm steel bushings in, gave it a proper shim job - smooth as silk. Obviously cleaned all the random gunk JG lubed it with off and re-lubed using the G&P lube set off ehobby.

The air nozzle had been drilled to downgrade so I replaced it, and downgraded the spring to an M80 which is a bit low but 260 - 265 fps will do me fine. I'd say an M90 maybe M95 would be just right, but I'm not bothered enough to open it up again to change it. Will do it next time I give it a full service.

Other than that, It got a guarder 50% hardness hop up bucking and nub and a prometheus 6.03mm tightbore barrel.

Kept the gears as they seem pretty good quality (JG branded), same with the piston parts. plus with the spring downgrade there will be less wear on them. And the motor is sound too. As for wiring etc, im of the opinion, that ultimately wire, is wire, is wire. Don't fix what aint broken.

Granted I changed perfectly good bushings but they were plastic and that was more prevention than replacement.

Sam

Phractal

Love the 'Wire is wire'. I just feel better with silver-soldered connections and nice high flow oxygen free copper wire

Masada: Thanks for the pointer, I will put the gears in the Meh-4 instead - it needs em!

A guarder Clear, Prommy 6.03, bushing bearings... Perhaps a spring taking it down to ~290fps or so and a faster ROF setup... G&P M120 motor, 9.6v battery in PEQ, MOSFET with active braking doo-dad... Should make a decent BB-Laser, no?

Oh, Masada - I have a question. I recently read on ASF about some capacitor bank thingy that makes faster trigger response. What is the deal with that? Is it worth my while? I have the parts... But am not sure if it is worth wasting time for.

DeBurca

Yo Phractal how do you Silver Solder your wires, I am very curious about your method

Leftyflip

DeBurca wrote: »

Yo Phractal how do you Silver Solder your wires, I am very curious about your method

With silver solder and flux, I use it all the time for instrument cables, mic cables and speaker connections, don't cheap out on the solder though, the cheap stuff is a load of sh*t.

DeBurca

Leftyflip wrote: »

With silver solder and flux, I use it all the time for instrument cables, mic cables and speaker connections, don't cheap out on the solder though, the cheap stuff is a load of sh*t.

I am curious as to what heat source you use as Silver Solder contains real Silver and has a melting point of 550/600 degrees C

Phractal

Lefty said it all. I basically asked in Maplin :P

I use my bog standard iron, Zinc Chloride Flux, and the standard silver solder. It makes good connections in HV circuits - I will post a pic of my new HV cap bank later if you want

Leftyflip

DeBurca wrote: »

I am curious as to what heat source you use as Silver Solder contains real Silver and has a melting point of 550/600 degrees C

I'm using a 40W iron on high, does the job well enough, wouldn't be keen on using a gas iron, heat varies a lot.
As for Maplin, don't listen to the sales reps at all, they don't know what they're on about sometimes...

Phractal

Most of the time you see right gob****es as sales reps. But I just happened to get lucky and find the one employee who knows what he is at. I believe solder is eutectic mix - i.e. a mix of two solids where the melting point is actually LOWER than the original materials - akin to certain mixes used in organic chemistry as reaction media

DeBurca

Leftyflip wrote: »

I'm using a 40W iron on high, does the job well enough, wouldn't be keen on using a gas iron, heat varies a lot.
As for Maplin, don't listen to the sales reps at all, they don't know what they're on about sometimes...

We must be talking about 2 different solders, as what i used for years for for some prescion repair work came in 1.5mm x 600mm rods and required an oxy/acetelene torch to use and melted at 550/600 degrees C
Are you using a cored flux solder similar to the standard stuff we use but with a small silver content and does it state on the reel what percentage that content is

Leftyflip

DeBurca wrote: »

We must be talking about 2 different solders, as what i used for years for for some prescion repair work came in 1.5mm x 600mm rods and required an oxy/acetelene torch to use and melted at 550/600 degrees C
Are you using a cored flux solder similar to the standard stuff we use but with a small silver content and does it state on the reel what percentage that content is

Probably yes, haven't got any on me, I'll find out though.

Phractal

DeBurca: If you dont mind me asking... How did ye avoid torching the circuit with the Oxy Acetylene torch? Ours incinerates everything... I cant imagine putting it near delicate electricals

DeBurca

Phractal wrote: »

DeBurca: If you dont mind me asking... How did ye avoid torching the circuit with the Oxy Acetylene torch? Ours incinerates everything... I cant imagine putting it near delicate electricals

Thats what i wanted to know, i could not think how anybody could use oxy/acetelene and silver solder rods to solder small electrical wires.
I have seen it used on large industeral buzz bars but never on the small stuff

Phractal

AH! I was thinking 'WTF? O/A used to repair circuits... Hang on a sec...' lol

I just found another few odds and ends - more cap banks, charger circuits... I think I may try cobble something together. The GF loves taking things apart more than I do so I don't doubt I can borrow a few bits off her if she has em. Anyone got any ideas on what airsoft enhancement can be built from a heap of assorted 'bits'?

Masada

Phractal wrote: »

Oh, Masada - I have a question. I recently read on ASF about some capacitor bank thingy that makes faster trigger response. What is the deal with that? Is it worth my while? I have the parts... But am not sure if it is worth wasting time for.

They basically work like an extra battery cell that builds up a charge until theres a drop and it discharges back into the circuit. useful when the battery is getting low but realistically it would be overkill for us, Better suited to stronger springs.

Phractal

Thanks mate, aint really worth the bother at the moment so. Sure the space it would take up could be filled by a custom battery of some sort (the capacitors I have are not exactly small...)