Moving Hot Water Cylinder

Allan1

Hi,

My wife wants our hot water cylinder moved from the kitchen cupboard to the garage only around 2ft simply disconnect and move the other side of the garage wall and reconnect, vented system is it a case of draining disconnecting and reconnecting on the other side of the wall and refilling and firing up? Any tips would be welcome

Allan

sullzz

i wouldnt say its as simple as you think , you will have to drain the heating , empty the cylinder ,re-route the pipework , re-wire the immersion , if moving all the pipework you will have to drain the storage cistern in the attic to move the cold feed to cylinder , then when you have it all re piped you will more than likley have a probem with air locks.
it sounds like a bit of a job but if you have a garage available to put it in it would be a shame not to as it will free up a good bit of room in the kitchen.

Allan1

Thanks for your help I dont think there will be too much problem resighting as it is litterally only being moved 18 inches however I do see your point re air locks which I did anticipate do you have any advice on this if I get air locks after refilling stc.

Cheers

Allan

Satts

Allan1 wrote: »

My wife wants our hot water cylinder moved from the kitchen cupboard to the garage

You've probably thought about this but just incase, Just wondering if you use this cupboard to air clothes ?
If you move it out, cupboard won't be as hot anymore, may not be hot enough to air clothes. Depends on how many pipes left in the cupboard.

items

Allan1 wrote: »

Hi,

My wife wants our hot water cylinder moved from the kitchen cupboard to the garage only around 2ft simply disconnect and move the other side of the garage wall and reconnect, vented system is it a case of draining disconnecting and reconnecting on the other side of the wall and refilling and firing up? Any tips would be welcome

Allan

No big mysteries, looks like you have the idea. While you at it change valves to lever action ball valve, one for cylinder and one for plumbing then replace heating fill (if with cylinder pipe work) with a 1/2" ball valve. Gate valves can be a nightmare and you might find that out yourself, they seize up and glands weep. Lever valves cost more but out last gate valves many times over.

Keep cylinder off concrete, pref locate cylinder on top of an insulated base (if floor is cold / uninsulated). Use copper, pex will only flop around the place with heat. You cant use pex for cylinder vent or flow and return.

Allan1

Thanks for your advice epecially re the gate valves very valuable info

Allan