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shed wall insulation questions

  • 30-01-2010 10:58pm
    #1
    oflynno
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 729 ✭✭✭


    well now,

    i am building a shed cavity wall insulation
    60mm aerobord in a 100mm cavity

    do the sheets of aerobord sit down on the ground totally or do you have to have them raised up a bit,if so how much?

    a stupid question i know but,does the aerobord sheet sit against the inner or outer leaf of the wall?the ties for the aerobord,what course of blocks from ffl do they go on to begin with?

    when it comes to doing around the window and door reveals can i close the cavity with the evil expanding foam before the windows and doors are fitted?

    now some of these might be silly questions but i cant remember from building the house here

    i can build straight plumb blockwork,but want to know the nitty gritty bits instead of making mistakes


Comments

  • #2
    mossfort
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 609 ✭✭✭mossfort


    you should have a 9 inch step on your raft where you lay your first course of blocks on the outside. you run your 4" dpc over the outer course and run a 6" dpc on the raft itself 100mm in from outer course. your outer course should be level with raft at this stage and then you place your wall ties across the cavity with the drip on tie nearest the outer leaf.
    you then build your 4 corners up two courses high inside and out and fit your aeroboard against the inner leaf and run some more wall ties across on top of the aeroboard.
    around the windows you can use L blocks and stock bricks to close the cavity leaving a 25mm gap for the dpc.


  • #3
    oflynno
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 729 ✭✭✭oflynno


    thanks for that mossfort

    so the bottom of the aerobord should be on the same level as the floor base and not below it?

    thats that problem solved,good man


    again with the windows,why leave the 25mm for the dpc,is the dpc not put in as the head over the window is put on and the whole thing sealed up? now again i am going back a few years since the house was done but things might be changed now


  • #4
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    oflynno wrote: »
    i am building a shed cavity wall insulation
    60mm aerobord in a 100mm cavity

    do the sheets of aerobord sit down on the ground totally or do you have to have them raised up a bit,if so how much?
    The bottom of the cavity insulation is normally level with the DPC. (Usually, but not always, floor level)
    oflynno wrote: »
    ...does the aerobord sheet sit against the inner or outer leaf of the wall?
    Against the inner leaf.
    oflynno wrote: »
    ...the ties for the aerobord, what course of blocks from ffl do they go on to begin with?
    Normally, at floor level and every second course thereafter, an average of 6 per square metre of wall area.
    oflynno wrote: »
    ...when it comes to doing around the window and door reveals can i close the cavity with the evil expanding foam before the windows and doors are fitted?
    Not recommended, as filling the gap too much can push the blockwork and this foam degrades over time.
    oflynno wrote: »
    ...i can build straight plumb blockwork, but want to know the nitty gritty bits instead of making mistakes
    Buy the Homebond Manual and read it.
    mossfort wrote: »
    you should have a 9 inch step on your raft where you lay your first course of blocks on the outside. you run your 4" dpc over the outer course and run a 6" dpc on the raft itself 100mm in from outer course. your outer course should be level with raft at this stage and then you place your wall ties across the cavity with the drip on tie nearest the outer leaf.
    you then build your 4 corners up two courses high inside and out and fit your aeroboard against the inner leaf and run some more wall ties across on top of the aeroboard.
    around the windows you can use L blocks and stock bricks to close the cavity leaving a 25mm gap for the dpc.
    This is assuming the shed is being constructed on a raft and not on strip foundations.
    oflynno wrote: »
    ...why leave the 25mm for the dpc, is the dpc not put in as the head over the window is put on and the whole thing sealed up?
    The vertical damp proof course (vDPC) is put in with the head, as you say, and backed with board insulation to prevent cold bridging and to close the cavity. Building has been carried out this way for a long time.


  • #5
    oflynno
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 729 ✭✭✭oflynno


    now we're sucking diesel

    i have the homebond manual already and have looked at it and read it

    the trouble with it is there are so many variations its hard to follow all the time
    being able to ask the odd question here is a god send

    about closing the window cavities,i wasnt going to do the expanding foam until all the block work was done and gone off,so it wouldnt push out the blocks,but point taken

    the shed is built on 3foot wide 14" deep strip foundations,14"wide x 9"high deadwork with a block on edge on for the inner leaf of wall

    the floor is compacted crushed stone with 804 on top,radon membrane,60mm insulation,120mm concrete floor


    again i thank y'all for the input


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