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noob - changing over to led/cfl

  • 26-01-2010 1:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37


    thats cfl/led noob, not diy.

    i looked in to this a year or so ago, but the technology didnt seem ready yet, ...are we there yet :D ?

    i want to diy re light my tv room.

    presently its - 10X18. false paneled ceiling, 3/4" spacer, over a plaster ceiling. it has 5 r63 bulbs, and is too dark.
    3 spots on ceiling center like this with a switch on one wall.
    2 spots (a double like the one linked) on the opposite wall (ambient) with a switch underneath.

    dont like the idea of cfl warm up so led seems best.

    is there a solution to split the main center light in to a few zones, maybe add some reading spots, controlled with a remote control plus the wall switch, either track or recessed, that doesnt involve channeling the wall from the switch to the roof, i can channel out a bigger switch box just dont want to re wall paper. (...are the ir receivers on the lamps or the switch) ?

    its all quite confusing, just deciding who made your bulb needs advice now :D .


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭eoghan.geraghty


    I haven't noticed any advances in led domestic lighting in the past 12 months available in Irish wholesalers.
    I have worked with IR receivers for a domestic setup, they were located at the ceiling lights and by the sounds of what you're describing would be ideal for you.

    Do you have access above the ceiling?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 jaya


    thanks eoghan,

    not really, here is a rough plan of the ceiling - red, amber, green for access.
    1=concrete, 2=bath, 3=tiled toilet floor.
    i havent explored but green which is very accessible, may contain access to the ceiling light wire.

    tvroomlights.jpg

    the paneling runs length ways so i could take down 1/3 either side of the center rose, or re do the whole lot, or lay a track on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    up to a couple of months ago I'd have agreed with eoghan, but the Philips MasterLed range is very good IMHO and we are now installing a number of these lamps, they are about €20 for the lamp so not cheap, but they have a good quality of light and are def worth a punt,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    Haven't used the phillips ones before, they sound decent though. You using the 230 or 12 v ones stoner?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭eoghan.geraghty


    Jaya if you're willing to take down some of the panelling then one or two full runs should do it, wires can be fished across to this access point.
    I don't like the look of the track myself, the IR receivers I've used (GET) don't work with led or cfl.

    Stoner I must try out the phillips ones, last time I asked in Eurosales they were 36 a pop ex vat but price must have come down.
    I'll be fitting out my downstairs and extension this summer so will most likely try them there.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 jaya


    i saw the getsmart ones on your site, ...very nice finish.

    hunting round the net i found this thread .

    the not working with cfl/led you mentioned, is it to do with the 20w minimum load on the getsmart dimmers mentioned in the link ? ...i was thinking to get it to work i might need 4 zones times 4/5 leds per zone @ €30 a lamp :eek: :) .

    could i mix 230 and 12, different voltage for different zones ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭eoghan.geraghty


    That's an interesting looking site, must check it out.

    I tried one set of leds (not phillips master led) with the GET control pack but they stayed on constantly.

    GET also state in their literature that they are no suitable for cfl or led so tbh I wasn't going to spend the time trying different brands to confirm but fair play to that guy for trying it.

    A word of warning regarding the GET control dimmers though, if you are going to buy them get them from a reputable wholesaler who deals with GET regularly.
    I installed that set of 4 control dimmers in Sep 2008, in Sep 2009 one of them failed. I brought it back and paid for a replacement (on account ) until it was confirmed GET would cover the cost. It turns out that they were prone to failing but that problem is solved with the newer ones, so GET covered the cost and I was credited.
    Last week that customer rang me to say a second one has failed so I am waiting on word from GET to see if they will replace all remaining 3 now as it's the return calls which are costing me time and so money also.

    If I bought them for cash from a wholesaler I don't know and who doesn't deal with GET anymore but had some old stock to get rid of I'd be in a different position and out of pocket.

    Oh, just noticed the 230/12 V question, the only packs I've seen have an integral dimmer so it's 12V only.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Davy wrote: »
    Haven't used the phillips ones before, they sound decent though. You using the 230 or 12 v ones stoner?

    the 220V ones, GU10, still a little pricey but good.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    FibreLed Are a company in Kimmage we have been dealing with.
    They are well informed & very helpful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 jaya


    from the avforums site above , the guy posted -
    The only other thing I would add is that the GET dimmers have a minimum load of 20W so you need a minimum of 3 LEDs on a circuit. However, I would recommend more, because you are making the dimmer work very hard and it would be more susceptible to early failure. The 4 lamps I tested together seemed fine.

    i couldn't find any info on this at the get smart page or the
    installation pdf there is a diagram for 230v or 12v option.

    how is a circuits 'minimum load' calculated with dimmers, is a bulb that's marked as 7w, considered 7w when on lowest dim ?

    is he saying
    3x7=21w, ...and 21w on lowest dim < 20w
    4x7=28w, ...and 28w on lowest dim > 20w ?

    i hope this makes sense, i cant think of another stupid way to say it :D.

    one more question, ...why might i want 12v, are there any advantages anymore given i have to replace the light fittings and im looking at low energy bulbs?

    this process reminds me of this vid - the paradox of choice ...i guess the 'how many people does it take to change a lightbulb' jokes will die with the incandescent....lol.


    edit : i found the min load document if anyone is interested, 20w all right.
    http://www.getplc.com/pdf/GET%20Prod%20Catalogue%20TECHNICAL%20June2009.pdf


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37 jaya


    anyone use these http://www.homeeasy.eu/product1.php ?

    not nearly as pretty as the getsmart range but no dimming gets around the minimum load issue


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,093 ✭✭✭KAGY


    Stoner wrote: »
    up to a couple of months ago I'd have agreed with eoghan, but the Philips MasterLed range is very good IMHO and we are now installing a number of these lamps, they are about €20 for the lamp so not cheap, but they have a good quality of light and are def worth a punt,

    @stoner; where do you get these at that price; the prices I'm finding are around £38 or €50 on dotlight.de for the 7W


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    em I think they got them in T O Reillies, we might have received a decent bulk order deal though, but 40 euro sounds very high


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