Plumbing Guys. Quick question

gsxr1

Im dry lining my attic.

I want to put a rad up there.

When my house was being built , I asked the plumber to make provisions for a rad in the attic. He did. The Two copper pipes lead into my attic where I can connect a rad.

Im a chippy, but want to tackle this simple task myself. I need to tee into the flow and return . What connections should I ask the shop for. I have 2 rads to go upstares with no valves on them. I need a flow and return going to each one Via qualplex.

And lastly. I have a new type gas boiler. To drain the system do I turn the red valve at the back of the boiler?

items

Handy enough job, you should have no bother since your already technical minded.

You'll need half a length of 3/4" copper (keeps hot press neat) to connect up the tails @ wall. Two 3/4" 318's (equal tees) a few 3/4" 315's (elbows) and two 3/4" 310's (joiners) all fittings listed are compression. For the rad's in attic you'll just need a bit of 1/2" copper to pick up rads some 1/2" 315's and 310's, don't for get to pick up some inserts for pex. Pick up a tub of Uni white pipe jointing compound, its not really for leaks, its to give a bit of lubrication while compressing fitting, wipe a bit around compression ring, stops pipe twisting / squeaking as you tighten nut.

I'd fit two lever action valves on pipes going to rads in attic (heating side) soon as I have valves fitted, I'd re fill heating then carry on with connecting up pipes to rads on the other side of closed valve. This will save lots of messing and have heating back on before it gets cold, job might run on a bit, you might have leaks etc.

If your house is standard two story with hotpress upstairs you wont have to drain system that much, just a bit to remove water in highest hotpress pipe work, dont worry about upstairs rads, water will stay locked in then (not open to atmosphere) all you have to do is, bleed out a rad dowstairs or break open a rad valve into a black bag to reduce pressure, go up to hotpress and take off bottle vent, then go back down and let some water out at rad (the amount of water you think is in hotpress pipework).

If you open boiler safety it might not seal proper, you've probably seen folks doing it on sites, boilers are brand new then, less issues with sealing, older boilers might not seal (dirt on sealing washer or sealing washer breaks up as older seals are brittle).

Not sure how your heating is filled, if its off mains then your fine, if not you might have trouble filling rads, rads higher than tank. You might have to connect mains to system via dedicated mains filling loop.

Careful where you connect pipe work, your boiler flow is coming up then going back down to MV (upstairs rads?) then onto cylinder controlled by another MV. If you connect before MV's then attic rads might come on all the time when boiler is on, you might have to bring the lower MV up so you can connect flow to rads after MV, that way attic rads will be controlled same as upstairs rads. I might not be bang on with what I'm saying as I've just a picture to work from, you should get the idea all the same.

gsxr1

Thanks Items. Another very helpful post.

all in one explanation.

cheers.