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Frozen handbrake

  • 07-01-2010 1:18pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,665 ✭✭✭


    Anyone else get that this morning?

    Think the only way of sorting it out is blowing a hairdryer up onto the mechanism behind the wheel. But my car is parked about 40metres from my apartment so thats not an option.

    Its also parked on a hill, so wouldnt like to leave it in gear with the handrake off....need to be able to get to work 2mrw so dont want this to happen again. Any ideas?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,632 ✭✭✭✭antodeco


    If you cant get a hairdryer to it, would a bowl or pot of boiling water be of benefit? Leave it under it and let the steam rise?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,801 ✭✭✭✭Gary ITR


    Bus_pass.jpg




    Your brake drums/calipers should have sufficient grease to stave off freezing. I'd be having them looked at


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,084 ✭✭✭Barname


    • leave the handbrake off
    • park tight to the kerb, lock your steering so as car turns to kerb downhill
    • leave in R or 5th depending on direction of car in relation to hill
    • if you have a small wooden block, place under one of the outer wheels for good measure
    to release hand brake from frozen F R F R

    good luck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭v300


    Onkle wrote: »
    Your brake drums/calipers should have sufficient grease to stave off freezing. I'd be having them looked at

    Maybe not...

    Moisture in the friction material is the problem.
    The friction material freezes to the drum.

    It does not happen so often in cars with disc only handbrake mechanisims,
    but more with brake shoe type mechanisms.

    Leave the handbrake off and park her in gear with a stone under the back wheel
    to prevent movement until the temps get back to normal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭v300


    Barname wrote: »
    • leave in R or 5th depending on direction of car in relation to hill
    R or first or second, nothing higher.

    In 3rd 4th or 5th the car may run away on a slope !


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭v300


    Barname wrote: »
    cars can shunt in lower gears, save your erroneus advice.

    Cars shunt in higher gears.
    Gearbox multiplication effectively increases engine friction in the low gears
    IE first or reverse.

    Your advice is incorrect in this regard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭Muckie


    v300 wrote: »
    Maybe not...

    Moisture in the friction material is the problem.
    The friction material freezes to the drum.

    It does not happen so often in cars with disc only handbrake mechanisims,
    but more with brake shoe type mechanisms.

    Leave the handbrake off and park her in gear with a stone under the back wheel
    to prevent movement until the temps get back to normal.

    Thats very true, the rear pads split inside the drums on the wifes Clio
    last year, hell of a job getting them off, so leave in gear and handbrake off folks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,323 ✭✭✭Savman


    Having same problem on a Mondeo and it's a PITA to say the least. Do we leave it in 1st / 2nd / 5th or wha? Confusing advice so far, just want to be sure the car don't go walkies :eek:


    /runs out to car to check


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,983 ✭✭✭✭tuxy


    Savman wrote: »
    Having same problem on a Mondeo and it's a PITA to say the least. Do we leave it in 1st / 2nd / 5th or wha? Confusing advice so far, just want to be sure the car don't go walkies :eek:


    /runs out to car to check

    If you left it in 1st gear it would be very unlikely that the car would move at all.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,323 ✭✭✭Savman


    tuxy wrote: »
    If you left it in 1st gear it would be very unlikely that the car would move at all.
    Er, still a bit vague tbh.
    Barname wrote:
    leave in R or 5th
    v300 wrote:
    R or first or second, nothing higher.

    Which is true folks?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 Waaaayyy!!


    Leave it in first, it's a lower gear and therefore much more difficult to turn the engine. Also, spray WD-40 on the handbrake cables to drive away the moisture although this is not guranteed to work. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    And if all that failed a large concrete block behind the wheel would do the job :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Not ideal, but I had this issue Christmas week and resolved it with anti-freeze directly applied to the affected wheel. Happened again last week and a kettle of boiling water did the job, same wheel again. Have been parking in first with the handbrake off in cold areas since.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    Onkle wrote: »
    Your brake drums/calipers should have sufficient grease to stave off freezing. I'd be having them looked at
    The shoes/pads get frozen to the drum/disc. There should be no grease between these two surfaces!

    OP, you don't need grease or an inspection. Just pour hot water over your drums or calipers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Might not be the pads/shoes themselves. I had a Mondeo once where the same thing happened, but in this case water had somehow got inside the cable (possibly a boot or something had come loose) and frozen.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,538 ✭✭✭niceirishfella


    JHMEG wrote: »
    The shoes/pads get frozen to the drum/disc. There should be no grease between these two surfaces!

    OP, you don't need grease or an inspection. Just pour hot water over your drums or calipers.

    +1


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,665 ✭✭✭gary the great


    No luck.

    Got the wheel on one side free after one basin of hot water...but after 3 basins on the other side it still wotn budge. Sat in the car an hour to with the engine running hoping the hear from the exhaust would free it (its the wheel on the exhaust side) but no luck.

    Bus for me it seems until the freeze is over :confused:

    The handbrake is off now anyway, its in first and i have a brick behind the back wheel just incase.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 Waaaayyy!!


    It might not be the parts of the drum itself that are sticking, possibly the cable is frozen. Try splashing hot water on the cable . . .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,538 ✭✭✭niceirishfella


    No luck.

    Got the wheel on one side free after one basin of hot water...but after 3 basins on the other side it still wotn budge. Sat in the car an hour to with the engine running hoping the hear from the exhaust would free it (its the wheel on the exhaust side) but no luck.

    Bus for me it seems until the freeze is over :confused:

    The handbrake is off now anyway, its in first and i have a brick behind the back wheel just incase.

    sounds like the handbrake cables are frozen.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,908 ✭✭✭CrowdedHouse


    I've heard of someone sliding(on a shovel) a disposable barbecue in under the car for a short time (remember fuel tanks !!)to free a frozen handbrake cable ..don't know if I'd try myself though...

    Seven Worlds will Collide



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 630 ✭✭✭Bulmers


    i was just about to post something up on boards as the wifes car, opel astra gtc is having this problem, both back wheels locking up..didn't know what it was but threw hot water on them this morning and seemed to help, although went to get petrol in it, stopped for 5 mins and they froze again..

    is there something wrong with the car that this is happening, or does something need to be done to the drums to fix this..

    anyway boards solves the problem again, handbrake off for tonite so hopefully all ok in the morning.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,801 ✭✭✭✭Gary ITR


    JHMEG wrote: »
    The shoes/pads get frozen to the drum/disc. There should be no grease between these two surfaces!

    OP, you don't need grease or an inspection. Just pour hot water over your drums or calipers.

    I was thinking the caliper itself was stuck, which would need greasing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭v300


    Onkle wrote: »
    I was thinking the caliper itself was stuck, which would need greasing

    Stuck calipers (95 percent of the time) happen
    when the borehole for the piston rusts and
    increases friction on the caliper piston.

    The other percentages mainly go down to
    seized sliding pins which grease will fix perfectly !

    A seized or semi-sezied caliper is a lot more noticeable
    in this weather, as it in effect has the brake applied on that wheel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 465 ✭✭coco06


    So if you leave your car in 1st, leave handbrake off and put blocks under wheels, this reduces the chances of it happening again is that correct?

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 356 ✭✭v300


    coco06 wrote: »
    So if you leave your car in 1st, leave handbrake off and put blocks under wheels, this reduces the chances of it happening again is that correct?

    Cheers

    Correct !!!


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