Gluing lino to concrete

jdpl28

Hey,

I'm looking at gluing lino to concrete, but can't seem to find any body who knows what type of glue to use, and where you'd get it. Been in woodies, but can't seem to see anything there.

any suggestions?

thanks,
Justin

items

jdpl28 wrote: »

Hey,

I'm looking at gluing lino to concrete, but can't seem to find any body who knows what type of glue to use, and where you'd get it. Been in woodies, but can't seem to see anything there.

any suggestions?

thanks,
Justin

I've seen it done a few times, most pour a special compound over concrete first to seal it up. Concrete is porous, dusty, uneven etc, not great for adhesion.

Tilers use a self leveling compound before tiling floors, few lino job's I've seen same had been used.

Their is special lino adhesive available, unless woodies or anywhere else stocks lino, they wont have the adhesive. Best go to lino shops or dedicated builder suppliers over DIY shops.

noodletop

ok so to glue lino to a floor head to a hardware and ask for either multipurpose carpet adhesive or any acrylic based glue generally its the multi purpose i would recommend as it has a stronger grip.you will also need a serrated trowl to spread the adhesive about a 3mm notch or less if you can get it.
make sure to keep a sweeping brush handy when gluing as when you lay the lino out you will get pockets of air under it and you can lean on the brush a bit and work them to the edges otherwise you end up with bubbles in the lino. if you notice any pockets of air when your finnished the best way to get rid of them is to use a small syringe and draw the air out with that.

one other thing is remember lino is usually loose layed by all fitters unless it is contract grade. there is no real need to glue it to concrete or any other surface if you really want it glued down then as advised in previous post if there are ridges or holes in concrete its better to get a bag or two of self leveling compound and skim the floor first bec every little hump or hollow will show up when you stick the lino

hope that helps:D

cnocbui

Seal the concrete with a 5:1 water pva mix and make sure it is really flat and smooth as any discontinuities will show through.

Glue lino to the concrete with impact/contact adhesive. The solvent is Toluene and not nice to breathe so get a mask with an appropriate cartridges for that solvent.

Impact adhesive can be insanely priced in small quantities. Ring around for someone who has by the litre or larger.

A glue roller makes spreading large quantities of glue a lot easier.

noodletop

cnocbui wrote: »

Seal the concrete with a 5:1 water pva mix and make sure it is really flat and smooth as any discontinuities will show through.

Glue lino to the concrete with impact/contact adhesive. The solvent is Toluene and not nice to breathe so get a mask with an appropriate cartridges for that solvent.

Impact adhesive can be insanely priced in small quantities. Ring around for someone who has by the litre or larger.

A glue roller makes spreading large quantities of glue a lot easier.

no offence but are you mad?
contact adhesive is used for sticking rubber nosings/ cove form etc on contract jobs not domestic lino. a glue roller is also a bad idea bec when applying contact adhesive bec after two or 3 rolls across the floor the adhesive turns to a jelly substance making the roller useless. even if the user was to go get contact adhesive it ranges in price so for arguments sake say the lino is 13ft by 17ft it would take about 7 to 8 ltrs of it to cover the area at a cost of around 120 to 150 euros .:eek:
multipurpose is safe non toxic and for a 10 ltr tub would cost about 25 euro.as for pva it only creates a skin on the floor which the adhesive will stick to but after about a month or so it will lift causing bubbles in the lino which will never come out.

cnocbui

No offence, but you you don't know what you are talking about.

I laid cork tiles in 4 rooms of my house, being an area of 70-80 sq m. I used about 4 litres of contact adhesive from a 5 L container, which cost about €23 if memory serves. I used a glue roller, which is why I was able to be so efficient with the coverage, while still being thorough and applying a coat to the tiles and floor, as you do with contact. The roller was incorporated on the end of a glue bottle. When the glue dries, it is possible to peel it off the roller, not the nicest job in the world, but doable. I still have it and it is in perfectly usable condition.

Not a single cm of my cork flooring has lifted after 8 years of use, so the adhesion to the the PVA would seem to be a lot better than you stated.

Contact adhesive has a much wider range of uses than you suggest.

I do think it might only be necessary for the OP to only stick the edges down though.

noodletop

cnocbui wrote: »

No offence, but you you don't know what you are talking about.

I laid cork tiles in 4 rooms of my house, being an area of 70-80 sq m. I used about 4 litres of contact adhesive from a 5 L container, which cost about €23 if memory serves. I used a glue roller, which is why I was able to be so efficient with the coverage, while still being thorough and applying a coat to the tiles and floor, as you do with contact. The roller was incorporated on the end of a glue bottle. When the glue dries, it is possible to peel it off the roller, not the nicest job in the world, but doable. I still have it and it is in perfectly usable condition.

Not a single cm of my cork flooring has lifted after 8 years of use, so the adhesion to the the PVA would seem to be a lot better than you stated.

Contact adhesive has a much wider range of uses than you suggest.

I do think it might only be necessary for the OP to only stick the edges down though.

i am a qualified domestic and commercial carpet fitter with over 15yrs experience in the trade so pls dont tell me i dont know what im talkin about .
yes for cork tiles i would say contact adhesive is generally the prefered adhesive or bitumen which is the recommended one but that is not the case for domestic lino and i didnt say it cant be used for anything else i said when it comes to carpets etc it is used for cove form or rubber nosings
http://www.floorwise.co.uk/public/zoom_adhesivef600.html?n=9

that is contact adhesive read the specs as regarding uses show me where it says lino oh yeah and it costs 78euro plus vat for that tin at wholsale prices


http://www.floorwise.co.uk/public/zoom_adhesive6d24.html?n=1

thats the acrylic i recommended which if you read says its for lino and costs about 25 euro per 10 ltr bucket.

one more thing contact adhesive is not only toxic if you breathe the fumes but also highly flammable so advising someone to use large amounts in a small area is not a good idea even if you did say they would need a mask.
both the adhesives i recommenbed are water based so not flammable and also non toxic.

cnocbui

noodletop wrote: »

i am a qualified domestic and commercial carpet fitter with over 15yrs experience in the trade so pls dont tell me i dont know what im talkin about .

I will if you post information that is clearly incorrect.

yes for cork tiles i would say contact adhesive is generally the prefered adhesive or bitumen which is the recommended one

Bitumen is NOT the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer of the tiles I purchased. I used the adhesive that was recommended.

that is contact adhesive read the specs as regarding uses show me where it says lino oh yeah and it costs 78euro plus vat for that tin at wholsale prices

I already mentioned how much I paid for the 5L I bought.

Since you can get 5L for £12.99 in the UK, don't you think you should shop around a bit?

http://www.sealants-direct.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/89

Uses: This highly versatile adhesive will bond a large variety of materials including: laminated plastic, metal, lino, rubber, decorative hardboards, veneers, cork, wood, formica, melamine, glass, carpet, cloth and leather.

Lino, fancy that.

http://www.floorwise.co.uk/public/zoom_adhesive6d24.html?n=1

thats the acrylic i recommended which if you read says its for lino and costs about 25 euro per 10 ltr bucket.

I have no problem with that adhesive or your recommendation of it, there are many ways to skin a cat, afterall.

one more thing contact adhesive is not only toxic if you breathe the fumes but also highly flammable so advising someone to use large amounts in a small area is not a good idea even if you did say they would need a mask.
both the adhesives i recommenbed are water based so not flammable and also non toxic.

I know it is toxic, which is why I stated the requirement of using a mask with cartridges. Using the correct safety equipment makes use of the product acceptably safe, otherwise it would not be available for sale.

I used 500ml at a time in a large enclosed space with the windows open using the correct and prescribed safety equipment. That was not a dangerous practice. You are blowing it up out of all proportion.

charlesanto

items wrote: »

Tilers use a self leveling compound before tiling floors,

^ This sounds wrong ?

noodletop

you know what im not even bothered to argue the point with you
some people will never admit being wrong and some are always right .

your right after so many years doing this job i dont know what im talking about and you know it all .

i wont be responding again but just for the user asking the question try this

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/templates/content_lookup.jsp?content=/content/knowledge/how_to/laying_sheet_vinyl/laying_sheet_vinyl.jsp

should at least get you going

be0wulf

loose lay it, leave it with the heat on in the room for a day or two so it expands, then use spray glue at the door ways and seal the edges with clear silicone, linos a nightmare to get up once glued and will ruin the concrete underneath

Phester

Gluing on all sides is not the most common thing anymore. It would be better to glue on 3 sides and leave one side for any stretching so it does not bubble.

If you glue all the lino down when you go to change it in a few years it is a bitch to scrape up the old stuff, Or if you self screed you could lift the screed in places where it is only a thin layer.