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My rear wheel is banjaxxed

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,278 ✭✭✭kenmc


    Anyway my question is: Is there any hope of repairing my wheel?
    Cracked rim, forget about it.
    Can't help with your choices tho


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Your wheel can be repaired - new rim and spokes (better off replacing them all). But that's expensive and if your hub isn't anything special you'd be better off getting a new wheel. The crack in the rim is odd. Rims are known to split at the join, but that doesn't look like the join. Looks more like someone went at it with a dremel :confused:

    Can't really help with your choice of wheels either - hub lengths vary and what you need depends on your frame and geometry. Most standard frames and hubs are fine to use together, but you can never be sure.

    What's the make, model and year of the bike? And if you can find it, what type of hub have you got?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭Marvinthefish


    Thanks for the replies. The wheel is nothing special. It was a cheap wheel to replace a cracked rim a couple of years ago. My bike is a "vintage" (:p) steel road frame which was resprayed before I got it, so I've no idea about make/year. I'll look at the hub later and see if I can identify it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    The wheels you linked have 8/9/10 speed freehubs. Sheldon says you can use a 7-speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer. If your bike is 7 speed I believe it should be standard 130mm spacing so the wheels should fit.

    EDIT: Actually 7 speed could be 126mm either, more likely if it is a "vintage" racer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    Rims that have a breaking surface are consumable parts.

    It looks like the crack is a result of the rim being worn down too much. Ill never forget the first time I came across this, repairing a puncture on a **** BSO, pumped the tyre, got to 30psi and BANG!!

    The rim basically peeled back.

    Lucky that in happend off the bike.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,038 ✭✭✭rob1891


    blorg wrote: »
    The wheels you linked have 8/9/10 speed freehubs. Sheldon says you can use a 7-speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer. If your bike is 7 speed I believe it should be standard 130mm spacing so the wheels should fit.

    EDIT: Actually 7 speed could be 126mm either, more likely if it is a "vintage" racer.
    Pretty sure the deore hub of the wiggle wheel is going to have a 135mm Touring/MTB spacing too. If the frame is 126mm then definitely avoid the wiggle wheel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭Marvinthefish


    So I measured the spacing (as instructed by Sheldon on this page) and it's closer to 126mm than to 130mm. It's not exactly 126, more like 127mm. The hub is a Shimano FH RM40. I searched for this online and this Shimano technical document looks to be right. But that seems to say it's for 130mm spacing.

    @rob1891: Thanks for that. Didn't notice the "Tourer/MTB" bit beside that wheel. In the Q&A section "One thing to watch out for is that this is a 'hybrid' wheel ie it has a 'mountain' hub which means the width is 135mm (called the over-lock-nut or OLN distance), and a 'road' rim which is 700C diameter."


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭penexpers




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