Recondition distributor

mondeo

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get a distributor reconditioned? My gf's colt is getting no spark from it. Where in the Dublin or surrounding area can I leave it in to get reconditioned?


Cheers

ddarraghh

is the coil ok

mondeo

ddarraghh wrote: »

is the coil ok

the coil is inside the distributor but I dont know how to test it, the distrib seems to get a very tiny spark if any at all. It's obviously knackered and needs a secondhand one or a recon, Mitsubishi want e-676 for a brand new one! The f~ck I will pay that:rolleyes:
I don't want to rely on a second hand one as you don't know when that is going to go, a recon one I would feel much better putting in her car.

ddarraghh

scrapyard might be a good bet

Captain Slow IRL

You say it's getting a tiny spark?! Where are you checking for a spark? And what are you comparing it to?

It might be an idea to bring it to a pro before you go spending money unnecessarily - may be a fueling/timing problem.

If you were thinking of replacing your dizzy, try a new rotor and cap first, they'll only cost you a few quid and rule them out.

mondeo

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

You say it's getting a tiny spark?! Where are you checking for a spark? And what are you comparing it to?

It might be an idea to bring it to a pro before you go spending money unnecessarily - may be a fueling/timing problem.

If you were thinking of replacing your dizzy, try a new rotor and cap first, they'll only cost you a few quid and rule them out.

I had a mechanic look at it, it's fueling fine, however he reckons the spark looks weak according to him.......I put new plugs in it and still won't start, tried a friends set of leads which did not make a differance either. It cannot really be alot more, distributor would appear to be the problem.
Would a motor factors supply distrib caps and rotors?

Thanks for the reply

kildarelad

mondeo wrote: »

I had a mechanic look at it, it's fueling fine, however he reckons the spark looks weak according to him.......
Would a motor factors supply distrib caps and rotors?

Thanks for the reply

Motorfactors supply the distributor caps for around 30 yoyos

mondeo

kildarelad wrote: »

Motorfactors supply the distributor caps for around 30 yoyos

I phoned a breakers earlier today and they have a distib for 100 quid, might go ahead with that as he reckons it's not a problem to return it if it won't work
which is great...
Is there a way to measure the voltage from the distributor with a multimeter

kildarelad

Thats extremely pricy for a distributor where was that

mondeo

kildarelad wrote: »

Thats extremely pricy for a distributor where was that

Some place out in meath direction, has a few of them, considering a new 1 from mitsubishi is 676, I think 100 is not bad if it gets the car going again..
Need to get it running again as cheap as possible. I'm open to any options though.

Captain Slow IRL

mondeo wrote: »

I phoned a breakers earlier today and they have a distib for 100 quid, might go ahead with that as he reckons it's not a problem to return it if it won't work
which is great...
Is there a way to measure the voltage from the distributor with a multimeter

This might be the best route to try then - if there is a comeback with the dizzy, you don't have a lot to worry about!

You need specialist equipment to measure voltage out of the dizzy.

AzureAuto

price isnt bad considering the distributor also house the hall sensor pick up and reluctor, its not just the cap.
Fairly sure the coil isnt part of this set up though. Your mechanic should run the following test procedures.
1) He's probably grounded a spark plug to earth and noted that the spark produce isnt a strong blue one. Has he checked the gap of the plugs and condition of electrodes?
2)The fact that there's a spark at all eliminates most problems with the primary switching circuit, i.e. hall sensor, reluctor wheel, output wiring to ignition amplifier. But how is the secondary circuit? By this i mean the ignition coil, king lead and HT leads.
3)Using a multimeter check the primary and secondary coil resistances against manufacturer spec. If they're within spec, suspect HT leads/king lead. These can again be tested using a multimeter set to resitance setting. Visually inspect the distributor CAP electrodes and rotor arm for arcing or wear in the points. This is a service item so does need to be replaced if worn.

My money is on the coil from what you've said though

mondeo

AzureAuto wrote: »

price isnt bad considering the distributor also house the hall sensor pick up and reluctor, its not just the cap.
Fairly sure the coil isnt part of this set up though. Your mechanic should run the following test procedures.
1) He's probably grounded a spark plug to earth and noted that the spark produce isnt a strong blue one. Has he checked the gap of the plugs and condition of electrodes?
2)The fact that there's a spark at all eliminates most problems with the primary switching circuit, i.e. hall sensor, reluctor wheel, output wiring to ignition amplifier. But how is the secondary circuit? By this i mean the ignition coil, king lead and HT leads.
3)Using a multimeter check the primary and secondary coil resistances against manufacturer spec. If they're within spec, suspect HT leads/king lead. These can again be tested using a multimeter set to resitance setting. Visually inspect the distributor CAP electrodes and rotor arm for arcing or wear in the points. This is a service item so does need to be replaced if worn.

My money is on the coil from what you've said though

You seem to know what your talking about...
He did not use a multimeter for anything, he just grounded the sparkplug against the engine head as they usually do. I borrowed a set of HT leads of a friend from his car and it still would not fire up, changed plugs, checked gaps etc still not starting. Can the coil itself be replaced easily?

Thanks

746watts

99% of the time the rotor and distrib cap wear out resulting in a very weak spark at the plug. Your motorfactor will supply those for less than 50 quid. All the other stuff will typically last for the lifetime of the car.
If you look inside your distrib cap you'll see crusty deposits on the metal contacts for the HT leads, scrap these off with the tip of a screwdriver and feel if there are any recesses cut into the surface, if there are any then it's well worn. Your rotor will be poop too. And defo don't part with 100 quid to the breakers. Your autofactors will have new shiney stuff for half that.

JHMEG

Distributors with integrated coils and ignitors are more expensive and probably a wee bit more prone to failure. The only thing that can be tested with a miltimeter really is the coil, but you need to know the resistances. You will know the coil is integrated if the distributor only has 4 HT leads coming from the cap. An external coil will mean a 5th HT lead.

Considering the price from the breaker that route is a no-brainer. Make sure to mark the position of the old distributor with a pencil before you put on the new one. Ideally you should set the timing with a timing light, but if you're careful enough you probably won't have to.

Darragh29

Did you check the ballast resistor for continuity? I'm a bit confused with regard to this problem... Last time I dealt with an analog ignition system, the HT coil circuit was not part of the distributor but was a separate component... The distributor was merely a switching device...

JHMEG

Darragh29 wrote: »

Last time I dealt with an analog ignition system, the HT coil circuit was not part of the distributor but was a separate component...

Physically seperate or integrated, they are still logically seperate.

Darragh29 wrote: »

The distributor was merely a switching device...

Hence the name. Switch the spark around, with a base reference of time.

AzureAuto

I think the coil is mounted externally from distributor, but could be wrong. Trace the central lead from the distributor cap, wherever that ends up, thats your coil.

JHMEG

AzureAuto wrote: »

I think the coil is mounted externally from distributor, but could be wrong. Trace the central lead from the distributor cap, wherever that ends up, thats your coil.

Here's the cap:
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m9b561s1904p8095



External coil?