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First campervan conversion

  • 02-12-2009 11:20pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭


    I'm about to start my first conversion and preparing you all for some serious advice that will be needed over the next few weeks/months.

    Some info on what I have and aim to create:

    I am in a band and want to create a touring van/weekend rec vehicle for us when we do our long tours. We have been playing for years and feel it would be a great perk to be able to shower/ eat / sleep in the van while on tour. And to have something for the weekends away with the missus and madra would be great=)

    I have acquired a transit LWB hi-roof T 300. It has a max capacity load of 3 tonne. I was told that this is under the regulatory weight to be classified as a camper. The van was for free and is in amazing condition. Lots of space also. So i want to keep it for the conversion.


    Now i was told that i can still get it classified as a camper but must pay some % on tax or something. If someone has info on this it would be great. Either way i have no problem paying standard commercial tax.

    Now i have researched quite a bit and decided to go DIY on the conversion. I have looked at a large number case studies of peoples conversions, some quite shabby, some absolutely amazing!

    Here is a link to a conversion job which is a standard i would like to achieve. Not necessarily the layout but definitely the quality and detail.

    http://stealthcamper.blogspot.com/2009_09_01_archive.html

    My van is a bit smaller and some of the electrics in my van will be different.

    What i would like in My van:

    > A kitchen area: sink gas hob/grill if possible.

    >A double bed going across the back with storage underneath for band gear.

    > double seat in the back aesthetically pleasing and safe for transit. Will probably make from scratch for room and comfort purpose and then bolt in seat belts. I could possible turn into a fold out bed if i can manage.

    >Shower/portable toilet. Probably build a shower unit in the corner like the van in the link above. Mine will be smaller. I will then have a portable toilet that can be place in the shower area when needed (only for emergency). I think i can manage that anyway.

    >the electrics will be a leisure battery connected to a relay/alternator for recharge when in transit. I will also have some solar panel installed to trickle charge the battery when not in transit. I will have a zig unit on board but unsure which model to get for my needs. (advice here would be great).
    I will also use an inverter for two plug sockets.

    > for heating water i was thinking of installing a helton heat exchanger:

    http://www.helton.com.au/

    This should provide me with hot water for the sink and also the shower.


    I hope to get started soon so any tips ad advice would be great.

    Ill be posting here regularly with pics to get some opinions.
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,098 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    I thinks the camper insurance companies exclude using the van for bands.... you'd want to check that first. If the van is 3 ton when converted then it's 50 euros tax othere wise it's 13% of the market value.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭bogwalrus


    Your right about the insurance. No insurance company will insure any band for a reasonable price. That is why most bands never tell the insurance company. The only reason they do not insure is extremely unfair. It is because bands are seen to be alcoholics and more likely to have a drunk driver when travelling back from gigs. So what most bands do is just not tell the insurance company that they are in a band.

    The problem with the 3 tonne is that if my van is weighed just a small bit over 3 tonne i will be over the legal weight for my vehicle. The only way around would to be get the van to weigh exactly 3 tonne on the dot but what are the chance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    bogwalrus, you need to be careful with they 'type' of vehicle you are planning to create. There is a class of vehicle called a 'living van'. This is a vehicle of dual purpose, that is one which has living/sleeping facilities AND facilities (space) to convey goods (your band gear). Examples of this type of vehicle are those used by motor-sport people to provide living facilities and also transport gear used at race meetings, similar vehicles are also use by the horse racing people.
    As far as I know these type of vehicles are not categorised as 'motor caravans' when it comes to tax's and testing, but do check with the 'authorities' before you proceed to avoid any nasty surprises when your project is finished.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭bogwalrus


    thanks for that help/advice niloc. I was at the tax office and a fella came out to have a look. he said once i have fridge bed windows (he said 2 at least) and also cooker that would be enough to classify as a camper. This was in cork now. But i will be prepared for any surprises also=)


    To give a bit of an update:

    I have decided on getting a b2b charger. Now has anyone every come across this before

    http://www.antares.co.uk/prod%20auto%20split%20charge.htm


    Its a b 2 b charger but half the price of a sterling one. Is it exactly the same though? Or will i need a relay in order to connect fridge to alternator and leisure battery?


    I have also managed to get a bargain on two seitz hinged windows (70x40 & 70x30 cm)

    They were on ebay and in germany. never used but had scratches on the paint making them cheap. I got the pair for 290 incl postage!!! Amazing price if you ask me.


    I also got some 2" rock wool slaps with the foil for free off a huge insulation factory up the road. more than enough for the walls and roof.

    I purchased a stylish smev 2 hob w/grill and matching sink off ebay for 300 including package. i figured the grill cost the extra bit and they are separate so i can fit to my liking.

    I was talking to an autoelectrician in the motorhome business for 27years. he says he would give me advice on what to do an what to buy for my specific needs and if i am stuck wiring he will help out for a small fee. A really nice man tbh.

    so far anyway all is going well and things are looking good cost wise.

    still unsure whether i want a calorifier or something like a carver for heating water but i can figure that later.


    Hopefully i can get cutting an sawing next week but probably wont be til the week after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    The unit at Antares is not a B2B charger, it's a split charger. The difference is:-
    A split charger will split the charge from the alternator between the chassis battery and the leisure battery(ies). the output both in voltage and amperage will be governed by the alternator.
    The B2B is a charger which draws its current from the chassis battery and operates on the leisure battery(ies) like a mains charger in that it will charge the leisure battery(ies) using a 4 step battery charging curve (which cannot be achieved from a standard alternator), it will also supply charge at up to 50ah which gives a much quicker recharge time than relying on a split charge system. At the end of the charging process there will be about 50% more power stored in the battery(ies) than using a split charge system.
    The B2B also charges at up to 14.8 volts which batteries like and it helps prolong their life.

    See
    http://www.marcleleisure.co.uk/Sterling/SterlingBatToBattCharg02.htm for a full description of how the B2B works.

    FWIW I have one and I think it's a brilliant piece of kit.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 M-wav


    so if i was to get a b2b how would i connect a fridge to the setup? i know you connect the b2b to the two batteries. Would i just connect my 12v fridge directly to the leisure battery so that it is powered while in transit? i would like to have the option to use gas on my fridge so would that mean i would have to connect a relay between the fridge and leisure battery circuit so that power is cut off when engine is not running?


    The ideal situation would be fridge is powered by battery setup while driving and then stops being powered while stationary. this is when i can use the gas. Or can i power by gas while connected to my leisure battery?


    all these questions=)

    ALso where would i pick up a good b2b and what amp version should i get. I have a 110amp leisure and 60 amp main battery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    M-wav wrote: »
    so if i was to get a b2b how would i connect a fridge to the setup? i know you connect the b2b to the two batteries. Would i just connect my 12v fridge directly to the leisure battery so that it is powered while in transit? i would like to have the option to use gas on my fridge so would that mean i would have to connect a relay between the fridge and leisure battery circuit so that power is cut off when engine is not running?


    The ideal situation would be fridge is powered by battery setup while driving and then stops being powered while stationary. this is when i can use the gas. Or can i power by gas while connected to my leisure battery?


    all these questions=)

    ALso where would i pick up a good b2b and what amp version should i get. I have a 110amp leisure and 60 amp main battery.

    The fridge should be connected off the chassis battery via on of these http://www.the12voltshop.co.uk/Shop/combi-master-w4-bee-e120-.html
    If you are using a B2B you can ignore the split charge function.
    I haven't seen any B2B's second hand so you just need to check all the retailers who supply them for the best price.
    If fitting one make sure the cabling is heavy enough to carry the 50 amps over the distance involved in the cabling run.
    As far as I know the minimum battery that should be connected to the 50 amp model is 110 ah


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27 M-wav


    by connecting the fridge to chasis battery through that combi thing is there not a risk of draining my main battery completely or does it detect whether engine is running or not?

    I imagine it does.

    Thanks again. I think i know what i am doing now=)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    M-wav wrote: »
    by connecting the fridge to chasis battery through that combi thing is there not a risk of draining my main battery completely or does it detect whether engine is running or not?

    I imagine it does.

    Thanks again. I think i know what i am doing now=)
    The combi master and similar type relays only close (send current through) when they sense the alternator has started producing charge, when the engine stops and the voltage falls they 'open' and disconnect from the fridge or whatever else they are supplying. Therefore they protect the chassis battery from being drained by the fridge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 TRUCK3R


    HI ALL ,:D
    Please can anybody help , I need to get some info on how to convert a vw t5 commercial van into a surf van / tourer ,basicly all i want in it is two captin seats ,cooker ,fridge,running water, 3 seater rock & roll bed .
    Or simply a vw california ,without the pop top?
    I know that i will have to get an engineers report before i can get insured , and that it wont pass camper van criteria:eg 6ft standing room
    and over 3000 kg ,and a walk through cabin to be classed as a camper ,and wont be able to get the cheeper road tax.
    I was wondering if it can be classed as anouther type of vehicle ,:a living van ? and how i can go about it , or just simply tax it as a commercial and try to insure it privately ,if theres such a thing ???????

    i would be greatfull for any info ............ thanks :confused:


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