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tyres again

  • 02-12-2009 10:07am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,990 ✭✭✭


    Hi all. I am currently commuting on 700 x 23 Gatorskins and find them good even if they seem to pick up a lot of glass which needs to be removed regularly. My wife and kids bikes have 700 x 35 marathon plus tyres which are great. i notice that you can get a 700 x 25c marathon plus tyre now. Have any of you tried these on your road bikes for commuting. I assume the clearances would be ok and the difference in rolling resistance negligible..


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,333 ✭✭✭72hundred


    Personally I like gatorskins 25x700 for communting and conti gp 4000S 23x700 for weenend cycling. What do you plan on using the tyes for most?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,223 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I use GP4000s and Gatorskins, and never get punctures, but the legendary toughness of Marathon Plus is quite attractive purely from a convenience POV - you can just leave the pump/levers/tube at home.

    They're not light though (580g in 25mm) although that obviously isn't a big deal for commuting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    They don't roll as well as Gatorskins, they are a fundamentally different sort of tyre. I used the non-plus variety in 700x35c before, my girlfriend has the 700x25c on a vintage tourer as there isn't clearance for anything wider. To be honest I wouldn't see a lot of point in it unless you had an off road component, it is one of the best tyres for mostly road with a bit of light off road though. What sort of bike are you commuting on? I am sticking Marathon Racers in 700x35 on my commuter (swapping from 700x25c Gatorskins) to see how they go. These are a fair bit slicker than Marathon Plus.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,604 ✭✭✭petethedrummer


    I stuck the 700x28C version of these on my road bike on Monday. Used them all last winter including the snow. There a good deal slower than 23Cs though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,990 ✭✭✭Seaswimmer


    blorg wrote: »
    They don't roll as well as Gatorskins, they are a fundamentally different sort of tyre. I used the non-plus variety in 700x35c before, my girlfriend has the 700x25c on a vintage tourer as there isn't clearance for anything wider. To be honest I wouldn't see a lot of point in it unless you had an off road component, it is one of the best tyres for mostly road with a bit of light off road though. What sort of bike are you commuting on? I am sticking Marathon Racers in 700x35 on my commuter (swapping from 700x25c Gatorskins) to see how they go. These are a fair bit slicker than Marathon Plus.

    I am commuting on a single speed road bike, all on the road but over a lot of debris and glass in certain areas. I just notice myself picking more and more glass out of the gatorskins and quite a lot of nicks/damage in the tyre even though i change them every 6 months. I have had a couple of slow punctures recently where small shards of glass have worked through the tyre over time.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,604 ✭✭✭petethedrummer


    You have to check your tyres every now and then and pull out any bits of glass.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,990 ✭✭✭Seaswimmer


    You have to check your tyres every now and then and pull out any bits of glass.

    I do this weekly but maybe i am just cycling through a lot of glass these days. I am going to give the Marathons a go. Which brings me on to my next query. The tubes i am using are 700c X 18-23. would you order a 700c x25-32 tube for a 700c x 25 tyre or chance the 700 x 23's that i currently own..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    The small nicks don't matter as long as it doesn't go through to the tube. The tyres are designed to have a somewhat soft outer (soft is necessary for good grip) with a layer inside that that stops objects that get through the soft outer from puncturing the tube.

    As Pete says, you have to remove the glass periodically or it is basically like running over the same bit of glass on a continual basis and it will eventually get through.

    To be honest I would avoid cycling over glass with any tyre, surely this must be possible?

    I often use 700x18-23 tubes in 700x25c tyres, indeed more often than not, and they work absolutely fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,990 ✭✭✭Seaswimmer


    blorg wrote: »
    The small nicks don't matter as long as it doesn't go through to the tube. The tyres are designed to have a somewhat soft outer (soft is necessary for good grip) with a layer inside that that stops objects that get through the soft outer from puncturing the tube.

    As Pete says, you have to remove the glass periodically or it is basically like running over the same bit of glass on a continual basis and it will eventually get through.

    To be honest I would avoid cycling over glass with any tyre, surely this must be possible?

    I often use 700x18-23 tubes in 700x25c tyres, indeed more often than not, and they work absolutely fine.

    Thanks for the advice re the tubes. i do try and avoid glass but it is not easy on these dark mornings and evenings and as i said i do pick it out every week (if i find it). I dont get many punctures but having seen the abuse that the Marathons take on my teenagers bikes i think they maybe a better commuting option..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 690 ✭✭✭poochiem


    Lumen wrote: »
    I use GP4000s and Gatorskins, and never get punctures, but the legendary toughness of Marathon Plus is quite attractive purely from a convenience POV - you can just leave the pump/levers/tube at home.

    They're not light though (580g in 25mm) although that obviously isn't a big deal for commuting.

    well (on your advice boadsies) my GP4000s arrived this morning so might try to stick them on tonight. got a cold though so will probably retire with whiskey to the leaba when i get in.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Worth bearing in mind as well I guess that they are wide for 25s, more like 28s I would have thought. Certainly they look a fair bit wider than 700x25 Gatorskins, I have compared the two directly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,604 ✭✭✭petethedrummer


    I had these tyres in 23C on the bike till the recent change to wide tires for the ice. They are slow and heavy but they were far better for resisting punctures than gatorskins IMO. I don't rate gatorskins at all, but I'm in the minority.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/tyres/product/ribmo-tyre-32125


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    blorg wrote: »
    Worth bearing in mind as well I guess that they are wide for 25s, more like 28s I would have thought. Certainly they look a fair bit wider than 700x25 Gatorskins, I have compared the two directly.

    Which tyres are wider than billed? Continental of schwalbe? I've ordered a pair of these at 28mm and it's only 50/50 they'll actually fit on my fixie, but I'm hopeful as I was under the impression that contis generally are narrower than they claim...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 403 ✭✭MadHatter


    I had these tyres in 23C on the bike till the recent change to wide tires for the ice. They are slow and heavy but they were far better for resisting punctures than gatorskins IMO. I don't rate gatorskins at all, but I'm in the minority.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/tyres/product/ribmo-tyre-32125

    But not a minority of one! I had at least 5-6 punctures on 25c gatorskins in the 12 months of running them, compared to 1 on armidillos over a 15 month period. But more importantly, I found the grip on gatorskins to be appalling in wet conditions. Had 3 "offs" over the 12 months due to loss of grip in rear wheel. On each occasion, I was travelling at a moderate enough pace and taking gentle corners, so I would have expected to stay upright.

    The gatorskins are now in the bin and I've moved to these Conti Sport Contacts. Seem to be behaving themselves a bit better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 403 ✭✭MadHatter


    niceonetom wrote: »
    Which tyres are wider than billed? Continental of schwalbe? I've ordered a pair of these at 28mm and it's only 50/50 they'll actually fit on my fixie, but I'm hopeful as I was under the impression that contis generally are narrower than they claim...

    What width are your rims?

    They fit fine on my 14mm rims but I tried to fit them on 13mm rims from the wifes bike and they were too big.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    MadHatter wrote: »
    What width are your rims?

    I don't know off the top of my head, but they're open-pros which I think are quite wide. It's the clearance under the rear brake bridge and the fork that I'm worried about. It's a pretty uncompromising frame.... all I can do is cross my fingers and hope.

    How little clearance is too little clearance guys? If the wheel spins am I good to go? or do I really need a couple of mm of air just in case the tyre picks something up or I flex the whells a little too much with my mighty watts? I see track frames run with fag-paper clearances but is that wise in the real world?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 14,093 Mod ✭✭✭✭monument


    Touch wood -- Not one puncture on Marathon Plus since switching to them a year or two ago (bar a directly inflicted one while not cycling).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    niceonetom wrote: »
    Which tyres are wider than billed? Continental of schwalbe? I've ordered a pair of these at 28mm and it's only 50/50 they'll actually fit on my fixie, but I'm hopeful as I was under the impression that contis generally are narrower than they claim...
    The Marathons specifically seem a bit wider than Gatorskins- in the 700x25 size. May not apply to other sizes.

    I have put 35c tyres on Open Pros so I don't imagine you'll have a problem with the rim.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,860 ✭✭✭TinyExplosions


    niceonetom wrote: »
    I don't know off the top of my head, but they're open-pros which I think are quite wide. It's the clearance under the rear brake bridge and the fork that I'm worried about. It's a pretty uncompromising frame.... all I can do is cross my fingers and hope.

    How little clearance is too little clearance guys? If the wheel spins am I good to go? or do I really need a couple of mm of air just in case the tyre picks something up or I flex the whells a little too much with my mighty watts? I see track frames run with fag-paper clearances but is that wise in the real world?

    Fag paper clearance is fine mate... them thighs you got ain't going to be flexing any frames in the near future :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 682 ✭✭✭Signal_ rabbit


    Another vote for the GP4000S, absolutely great tyre, and good in the wet too. Have gone up a lot in price now though.; PBK £35!!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    Well today I will be road testing my new continental sportcontact 28mm tyres at 80psi on my cannondale capo*. I expect to feel slow. Conti do indeed run narrower than they claim - the 28mm is actually only 26mm which means they sneak under the brake bridge with about 1.5mm to spare.

    *that's for google


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 690 ✭✭✭poochiem


    quick question - i'm putting on my new conti 4000s and it's my first time changing a tyre in nearly 20 years. what is the rotation arrow about on the tyre and what relation has that to the wheel?
    :confused:

    meh. i'm presuming it means the direction of travel and not the "direction of the wheel" as it says in my little tutorial.

    I think I should give mr.Skeffington a buzz for some lessons.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    poochiem wrote: »
    quick question - i'm putting on my new conti 4000s and it's my first time changing a tyre in nearly 20 years. what is the rotation arrow about on the tyre and what relation has that to the wheel?
    :confused:

    meh. i'm presuming it means the direction of travel and not the "direction of the wheel" as it says in my little tutorial.

    I think I should give mr.Skeffington a buzz for some lessons.
    You put it on so the arrow points in the direction of wheel rotation. Not that it really matters.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 690 ✭✭✭poochiem


    blorg wrote: »
    You put it on so the arrow points in the direction of wheel rotation. Not that it really matters.

    Yeah I presumed that's what was meant but my 'instructions' made it seem as though there was an equivalent arrow on the wheels. just confusing.

    Anyways thanks for the recommendation the gp 4000s are like formula 1 tyres. feel comlpletely different - faster? - maybe my imagination but on a dry indoor tiled floor the bike practically stood up itself they feel so grippy. :)

    I got a sweet deal for 40 quid on those, delighted.


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