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aritech cs250 fault

  • 01-12-2009 6:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭


    ok
    latest problem im having is im getting fault message.
    pd low battery so i cannot set alarm. when i power off system it goes away and i can set alarm but the fault always comes back. receiver type is rf433. this is powered through system. so would i be correct in saying battery is low in one of the sensors? do i have to check each one?

    thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    wackojacko wrote: »
    ok
    latest problem im having is im getting fault message.
    pd low battery so i cannot set alarm. when i power off system it goes away and i can set alarm but the fault always comes back. receiver type is rf433. this is powered through system. so would i be correct in saying battery is low in one of the sensors? do i have to check each one?

    thanks

    Correct, pd low battery is the sensor battery, replace plus test the sensor..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭wackojacko


    There are 7 or 8 of them all working. Should I replace all batteries? Also I had to register receiver to system and it works but is there any way of checking what peripherals are registered to the system. I know it comes up on keypad when registering but before registering and after to see what’s in the system.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    wackojacko wrote: »
    There are 7 or 8 of them all working. Should I replace all batteries?

    It is always best to change all the batteries on the system once one goes.
    wackojacko wrote: »
    Also I had to register receiver to system and it works but is there any way of checking what peripherals are registered to the system. I know it comes up on keypad when registering but before registering and after to see what’s in the system.
    Thanks

    It should be wrote on the receiver if it is a 8 or 16 zone receiver, on a small sticker.
    You can check what is learned into the receiver in the zones menu, it starts at 9 for the wirefree components plus make sure you test them after replacing the batteries.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭wackojacko


    ok
    i had a problem with door contact today. it was wired straight into one zone with 2 wires and resistor in contact. when i opened the door it came up as tamper fault. so i changed setting to no end of line instead of dual end of line. it worked correctly as alarm when i opened the door. i have another inertia sensor on a window wired straight into one zone with 2 wires and resistor that works as an alarm on dual end of line. whats the difference as to why one works on dual eol and the other doesn't. are both the tampers functioning on these settings.
    hope this makes sense


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    wackojacko wrote: »
    ok
    i had a problem with door contact today. it was wired straight into one zone with 2 wires and resistor in contact. when i opened the door it came up as tamper fault. so i changed setting to no end of line instead of dual end of line. it worked correctly as alarm when i opened the door. i have another inertia sensor on a window wired straight into one zone with 2 wires and resistor that works as an alarm on dual end of line. whats the difference as to why one works on dual eol and the other doesn't. are both the tampers functioning on these settings.
    hope this makes sense

    You need the two resistors as for dual eol. If there is an alarm the panel sees 4k7 and if it is a tamper it sees 9k4. If you open the door and it shows a tamper it is wired wrong. Every alarm needs to have all its components tampered to be up to the EN50131 standard.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭wackojacko


    this was the way it was wired by previous installer with one resistor in each. so when i defaulted the panel i was getting a tamper fault when i opened the door. so the wiring pattern should be blue wire then connect 4k7 to this 9k4 to to 4k7 and and 9k4 to yellow in one loop?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    wackojacko wrote: »
    this was the way it was wired by previous installer with one resistor in each. so when i defaulted the panel i was getting a tamper fault when i opened the door. so the wiring pattern should be blue wire then connect 4k7 to this 9k4 to to 4k7 and and 9k4 to yellow in one loop?

    That is single eol the way he had it done. You need to put two 4k7 resistors in to the sensor to have dual eol. You need to have blue with the first leg of the resistor going into alarm, two legs of the two resistors going into alarm, single leg going into tamper and then the yellow going into tamper.

    Hope this helps..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭wackojacko


    Hi
    My problem is. when arming, message comes up arming but does not arm.
    is this a keypad problem?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    wackojacko wrote: »
    Hi
    My problem is. when arming, message comes up arming but does not arm.
    is this a keypad problem?

    Never came across that before, have you tried down powering the system and powering it back up or maybe default the alarm to factory setting might clear any faults on the alarm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,071 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    altor wrote: »
    You need the two resistors as for dual eol. If there is an alarm the panel sees 4k7 and if it is a tamper it sees 9k4. If you open the door and it shows a tamper it is wired wrong. Every alarm needs to have all its components tampered to be up to the EN50131 standard.

    So what does the panel see when everything is closed
    4k7 is in series with tamper and another 4k7 in parallel with the alarm terminals
    The above should read 4k7 - everything closed, 9k4 sensor open and infinite ohms or o/c for tamper


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 abes216


    Sometimes the CS 250 panel has faulty zone, but usualy this is zone 4. try put that sensor on other zone in panel and this one make unused... Meter by meter resistant when is open and when is close....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭wackojacko


    ok so the problem with the cs350 was the system would not arm as there was an open zone. the open zone was an exit/entry zone,however the system did not say there was an open zone on normal arm just tried to arm. so i did a quick arm which told me that the zone was open and would not attempt to arm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 abes216


    To check what zones are open just press arow down twice without going to engineer mode... it will show E/E zones open too. System should start arming when E/E zone is open, but will go off as soon E/E time is gone if the zone is not close.


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