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Slatted shed lights problem

  • 25-11-2009 11:28am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭


    Hello,
    Im new to this forum just joined today and was wondering could I have your thoughts on the following problem:

    We have a slatted shed with the spaced roof type (not the one with the canopy). One of the lights which contains 2 flourescent tubes has blown fully..eventhough the shed is only about 2 yrs old.

    Not sure if this is down to the heavy rainfall but the lights do have a casing around them which are "supposed" to be waterproof. But when i removed the cover I could see that the cover was holding all the water...this is why the lights are blown.

    Has any one had a similair problem?

    Was thinking of taking off the cover altogether or else drill some holes in the cover to let the rain that does get into the case drip through...

    Are there any covers that can be bought to put ove the light casing so as to let the drops flow away from the lights?

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 244 ✭✭DanFindy


    I had a similar problem in a shed, i got a few old double lights ya know the ones with the hood over the 2 bulbs and modified the cover to fit over the new 'waterproof lights' easy done as mine are on chains!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭westlander


    Thanks Dan!

    I dont have any spare ones as its our 1 and only slatted shed! Can the old hood type ones still be got?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Curious Geroge


    I had a problem with mine after rewiring the whole shed a couple of years back but it was due to the fuses in the double fluorescent that seemed to be faulty. All ok since. When I redid the work I supported all the fitting of hangers instead of blotting them back on as it prevents the water seepage and makes the maintenance much easier.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 244 ✭✭DanFindy


    westlander wrote: »
    Thanks Dan!

    I dont have any spare ones as its our 1 and only slatted shed! Can the old hood type ones still be got?

    Not sure lad i got a dozen a them for nowt that were replaced in the local bakery!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    I put lights up recently in a cattle cubicle shed. They should be rated IP65, from what I remember. This is the rating for outdor usage, where there is a risk of water gettig in.
    These sealed fine where the glass cover went on, but I didn't really like the grommet seal where the wire went in, to be honest.
    Who did the work, was it a qualified electrician?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭westlander


    pakalasa wrote: »
    I put lights up recently in a cattle cubicle shed. They should be rated IP65, from what I remember. This is the rating for outdor usage, where there is a risk of water gettig in.
    These sealed fine where the glass cover went on, but I didn't really like the grommet seal where the wire went in, to be honest.
    Who did the work, was it a qualified electrician?

    Thanks for all the replies.
    Yes a qualified electrician did the work and the lights are suspended from the shed with chains. I emptied the covers which had some water held in them. The covers are held in place with these plastic type hing clips but there isnt any seal on the covers...i.e the tightness of the cips fastened is supposed to be enough to keep the water out but doesnt seem to work well enough!
    Are the flourescent tubes expensive to replace? ( i think theres no starter in these ones)?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    No, the tubes are cheap enough. You'll just need to know the length. the starters are seperate to the tubes. No harm get these aswell. Just turn anti-clockwise to remove. There are about 2cm in dia and maybe 4 cm long. You'll have to stop the water getting in though before replacing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    it it better value i wonder to just buy sodium lights now , they are usually an outdoor light so should be water tight, i think they are alot cheaper to run especially in sheds where you might need to leave a light on overnight ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 609 ✭✭✭mossfort


    the same thing happened my lights one time.
    the water was coming through the spaced sheeting and running down along the wire through the grommet which filled the cover.
    the electrician left a small loop on the wire 4 inches below the grommet to prevent the water getting in.
    has worked fine since.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    mossfort wrote: »
    the same thing happened my lights one time.
    the water was coming through the spaced sheeting and running down along the wire through the grommet which filled the cover.
    the electrician left a small loop on the wire 4 inches below the grommet to prevent the water getting in.
    has worked fine since.

    A lot of the older electricians use this method to prevvent water getting in through a joint. It's nice workmanship you don't see a lot today.

    OP If you feel water is getting in through the grommet I've seen lights raised up 10-15 links on the chain and the wire placed so it runs uphill before it gets to the grommet. Gravity is your friend :)


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 9,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭greysides


    You lads are fierce fussy. Ah shure God be with the days when when a single 50W bulb high in the timbers, covered with the dust and cobwebs of a decade threw a lovely mellow light on the cattle as they settled down for the night.





    ;)



    ..................and on the donkey and the child in the manger.

    Bloody gypsies always tresspassing...................:D

    The aim of argument, or of discussion, should not be victory, but progress. Joseph Joubert

    The ultimate purpose of debate is not to produce consensus. It's to promote critical thinking.

    Adam Grant



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