Road bike or Tri specific bike

NeedsTraining

To all you triathletes out there,

I currently have a Giant SCR 4 road bike (entry level bike).

I am looking at trading up and would like some advice from the triathletes out there.

Would you recommend buying a tri specific bike and use this for training and race day or but a good road bike and fit it with tri bars?

The bike I am looking at upgrading to is a Cube Aerium.

What do you guys and girls use? Separate bikes for training and racing?

I am unsure about value for money with a tri specific bike.

Intention for the coming season is to race approx 10 times, and also do the likes of the ROK and Wicklow 200.

Posted over on the cycling forum previously but they recommended tapping into the triathletes over here.

All advice welcomed and appreciated.

Cheers,

NT

tunney

Ideally you would have two bikes. A road bike for doing most of your training on and for road events like ROK and W200. Reasons being comfort and mainly safety. TT bikes should not be used in groups, even if you say you won't go down on the bars.

If you can afford to hand onto the road bike for training on and doing the w200 and the like on and get a TT bike for doing tris on.

That would be my take on it.

If you do buy the bike online remember that the important thing is not so much the bike but the fit. Make sure its the right size and that its set up correctly for you. This set up takes some expertise and you will need the help of someone experienced to do it.

NeedsTraining

Thanks Tunney,

No problem holding onto the SCR, however it is not the most comfortable bike in the world. Hence the reason for wanting to upgrade.

I know what you mean about two bikes, ideally I would have 2.
Would love a tri bike but not sure I will get value for money out of it.

Re the bike fitting, I am going to get it done in a shop rather than buy online. A extra few quid, but worth it until I know more.

Cheers

griffin100

Hi needstraining,

I was in a similar position recently. I ended up holding onto my road bike and buying a tri bike with the intention of using the road bike as a winter trainer. In reality I've used the tri bike for every ride since I bought it :rolleyes:, until this weekend when I used my road bike due to the high winds and crap all over the roads. Its nice to have the choice.

BTW I also looked at the Cube Aerium but ended up going for a Giant Trinity - worth a look.

MCOS

Hi NT I have a Giant too (SCR1) and used it for all of this season and will still be using it for the start of next season. I basically lowered the handlebars and clipped on some tri bars, raised the saddle an inch and I was good to go in a Tri. Bars off and good to go for a group spin. The lads are right though ideally I'd have 2 bikes, the roadie for training and TT for racing. Make sure you are getting as much as you can out of your roadie as a TT bike is not necessarily going to make you much faster without the engine ready to accomodate it

interested

all good advice here and Id be in the same boat

Had a really old bike - used it for one season with clip on bars
Got a descent road bike - used it for another season
Bought a TT bike last season - still use the really old bike during the winter to save the new(er) kit from the elements.

One thing though I noticed when I bought the TT bike is that its necessary to train on that bike (change out any new wheels and keep them for races) regularly - if not - all the time before its possible establish 'the best' position and make full use of the dynamics it brings.

Point Im making - although a new TT bike will look great on the wall and in T1 during a race its wise to train on it regularly prior to the season kicking off or your 'A' race.

tunney

interested wrote: »

all good advice here and Id be in the same boat

Had a really old bike - used it for one season with clip on bars
Got a descent road bike - used it for another season
Bought a TT bike last season - still use the really old bike during the winter to save the new(er) kit from the elements.

One thing though I noticed when I bought the TT bike is that its necessary to train on that bike (change out any new wheels and keep them for races) regularly - if not - all the time before its possible establish 'the best' position and make full use of the dynamics it brings.

Point Im making - although a new TT bike will look great on the wall and in T1 during a race its wise to train on it regularly prior to the season kicking off or your 'A' race.

Once a week on the turbo is enough during the winter.
More regularly as the season approaches.

NeedsTraining

Thanks to all for the feedback and advice.

Looks like i have a lot more thinking to do before I make up my mind :rolleyes:

Griffin, can I ask why you choose the Trinity over the Aerium? Was it spec, price, make etc?

Cheers,

NT

griffin100

Griffin, can I ask why you choose the Trinity over the Aerium? Was it spec, price, make etc?

hhmmm, there wasn't much in it. On the basis of the best prices I could get the Cube was €125 dearer. I asked for advice from one of the posters in this thread (guess which one ) and I had a good look at both bikes (well the cube in the flesh, I couldn't get to see a 2010 Giant but did get a look at a 2009 model). Spec was probably slightly better on the Cube with full Ultegra versus 105 on the Giant. Giant got a good review on slowtwitch, couldn't find a review of the Cube. I'm not a traditional triathlete weight (i.e. I'm not a 9 stone wippet) and the Giant 'felt' better for me than the Cube. Was leaning towards the Giant and with the free fitting as part of the deal from wheelworx that sealed the deal. Haven't regretted it (that was until PX dropped the price on their TT bikes:rolleyes:). Take your time chosing.

aero2k

MCOS wrote: »

n. I basically lowered the handlebars and clipped on some tri bars, raised the saddle an inch and I was good to go in a Tri.

Hi MCOS can you elaborate a bit? I'd have thought you might change the fore-aft position a bit to allow for the more stretched out position, but the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the part of the saddle where you sit should be the same regardless of road, track, or tri.

MCOS

aero2k wrote: »

Hi MCOS can you elaborate a bit? I'd have thought you might change the fore-aft position a bit to allow for the more stretched out position, but the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the part of the saddle where you sit should be the same regardless of road, track, or tri.

Hey aero2k (mad to know what the name stands for?), I brought my bike into the shop to be fitted and the guy raised my saddle a bit, maybe an inch was overstated. The saddle was as forward as possible. I was stretched enough but comfortable. He gave me printed geometics though which I can refer to next time I get a bike. In all honesty though I am lazy about making sure tha saddle is right. Every time I put the bike in the car I have to take the wheels and saddle off. I usually estimate the position when I put the saddle back on and use 'feel' to make sure its right. There is a marker on the seatpost but it moves so not scientific at all I did ok in a TT league in the spring though so my position can't be far off. I'm normally quite comfortable on the bars (straight vision tt)

tunney

aero2k wrote: »

Hi MCOS can you elaborate a bit? I'd have thought you might change the fore-aft position a bit to allow for the more stretched out position, but the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the part of the saddle where you sit should be the same regardless of road, track, or tri.

The geomtery of a bike set up from Tri is different to road or even TT.

aero2k

tunney wrote: »

The geomtery of a bike set up from Tri is different to road or even TT.

Why?
I'm not talking about geometry i.e angles. Most tri (and TT) bikes have a steeper seat angle than road bikes, in other words the saddle is closer to being vertically above the bottom bracket. The UCI has regulations about how far forward the saddle can be - not sure about tri governing bodies.
When you use aero bars, you may find it more comfortable to move the saddle forward so that the angle between your torso and flexed thighs is not too cramped. You would then have to raise the saddle slightly to keep the relationship between the top of the saddle and the centre of the bottom bracket the same. There are lots of formulae for what that measurement should be; many of them come out pretty much the same.

MCOS wrote: »

Hey aero2k (mad to know what the name stands for?), I brought my bike into the shop to be fitted and the guy raised my saddle a bit, maybe an inch was overstated. The saddle was as forward as possible. I was stretched enough but comfortable. He gave me printed geometics though which I can refer to next time I get a bike. In all honesty though I am lazy about making sure tha saddle is right. Every time I put the bike in the car I have to take the wheels and saddle off. I usually estimate the position when I put the saddle back on and use 'feel' to make sure its right. There is a marker on the seatpost but it moves so not scientific at all I did ok in a TT league in the spring though so my position can't be far off. I'm normally quite comfortable on the bars (straight vision tt)

Ah, that explains it, looks like your road position was too low for the road as well as TT.
When he first arrived in Europe, Greg Lemond's coach/manager raised his saddle by 1 1/2 inches! Most people ride with the saddle too low.
Ah, the name? I was wondering when someone would ask. When I first came on here it was to post in another forum. I was in a rush and so I signed up with a name I used on a car enthusiasts' site. I drive a Saab 9-5 Aero, it's a 00D hence the 2k. On Garmin's site I use the name Alan_Sillitoe which is more running related.

tunney

aero2k wrote: »

Why?
I'm not talking about geometry i.e angles. Most tri (and TT) bikes have a steeper seat angle than road bikes, in other words the saddle is closer to being vertically above the bottom bracket. The UCI has regulations about how far forward the saddle can be - not sure about tri governing bodies.
When you use aero bars, you may find it more comfortable to move the saddle forward so that the angle between your torso and flexed thighs is not too cramped. You would then have to raise the saddle slightly to keep the relationship between the top of the saddle and the centre of the bottom bracket the same. There are lots of formulae for what that measurement should be; many of them come out pretty much the same.

Exactly the geomtetry is different therefore it is most like necessary to rise your saddle when a bike is changed to Tri positioning.

aero2k wrote: »

Ah, that explains it, looks like your road position was too low for the road as well as TT.
When he first arrived in Europe, Greg Lemond's coach/manager raised his saddle by 1 1/2 inches! Most people ride with the saddle too low.
Ah, the name? I was wondering when someone would ask. When I first came on here it was to post in another forum. I was in a rush and so I signed up with a name I used on a car enthusiasts' site. I drive a Saab 9-5 Aero, it's a 00D hence the 2k. On Garmin's site I use the name Alan_Sillitoe which is more running related.

The most common tri bike fit problem is saddle too high.

aero2k

tunney wrote: »

Exactly the geomtetry is different therefore it is most like necessary to rise your saddle when a bike is changed to Tri positioning.

Given that most saddles have around 2 inches fore/aft movement (yeah, I know triathlethes love those go-faster cranked seatposts) raising the saddle 1 inch to compensate for moving from all the way back to all the way forward would be excessive, if the saddle wasn't too low in the rearward position. I've just calculated for a bike with a 74 deg seat angle and a rider inside leg of about 32 inches moving the saddle forward 2 inches would require raising it just over 0.5 inches. (yeah, I know, I've too much time on my hands...)

tunney wrote: »

The most common tri bike fit problem is saddle too high.

Perhaps triathlethes don't understand trigonometry?:D

tunney

aero2k wrote: »

Given that most saddles have around 2 inches fore/aft movement (yeah, I know triathlethes love those go-faster cranked seatposts) raising the saddle 1 inch to compensate for moving from all the way back to all the way forward would be excessive, if the saddle wasn't too low in the rearward position. I've just calculated for a bike with a 74 deg seat angle and a rider inside leg of about 32 inches moving the saddle forward 2 inches would require raising it just over 0.5 inches. (yeah, I know, I've too much time on my hands...)

Nice numbers.

You set set you're bike up your way and I'll do mine my way.
I was going to say "and then I'll pass you on the bike" but really unless its a multi lap bike course thats not going to happen

aero2k

tunney wrote: »

Nice numbers.

You set set you're bike up your way and I'll do mine my way.
I was going to say "and then I'll pass you on the bike" but really unless its a multi lap bike course thats not going to happen

Tunney I wouldn't dream of telling you or anyone else to set their bike up my way. My bike is set up using recommendations from pros (Greg Lemond) and some well known coaches. I've tweaked the set-up a little bit for comfort, but the saddle height varies little whether road, MTB or TT.
As for passing me on the bike, I reckon you'd manage that running. I haven't been on a bike for over a year.....
Could make for an interesting challenge sometime - I always felt I could knock a few minutes of my 25 mile time - but I'll work on my marathon time first.

tunney

aero2k wrote: »

Tunney I wouldn't dream of telling you or anyone else to set their bike up my way. My bike is set up using recommendations from pros (Greg Lemond) and some well known coaches. I've tweaked the set-up a little bit for comfort, but the saddle height varies little whether road, MTB or TT.
As for passing me on the bike, I reckon you'd manage that running. I haven't been on a bike for over a year.....
Could make for an interesting challenge sometime - I always felt I could knock a few minutes of my 25 mile time - but I'll work on my marathon time first.

Bike fitting is a tough thing to get right.
Personally I will be rather happy when Fernado in Wheelworx does his FIST fittting course

aero2k

tunney wrote: »

Bike fitting is a tough thing to get right.

It sure is - especially if you're like me with short legs and a long torso. Most stock road frames are too short for me - I always fancied a custom job but never made the plunge.

tunney wrote: »

Personally I will be rather happy when Fernado in Wheelworx does his FIST fittting course

I had to look that up to make sure I hadn't strayed onto AH by mistake:)

griffin100

Personally I will be rather happy when Fernado in Wheelworx does his FIST fittting course

So will I, he did my fit and it hurt like hell:D

ps he also put the saddle about an inch lower than where I would have.