planting a hedge

sea12

I want to plant a white thorn hedge. Is it too early/ late to plant quicks.

Also where I want to grow the hedge gets a bit waterlogged at winter due to water coming in off the road.

Am I wasting my time trying to plant it until late spring.

Any advice appreciated.

O.A.P

sea12 wrote: »

I want to plant a white thorn hedge. Is it too early/ late to plant quicks.

Also where I want to grow the hedge gets a bit waterlogged at winter due to water coming in off the road.

Am I wasting my time trying to plant it until late spring.

Any advice appreciated.

You've answered your own question. It wont start to grow before spring and if it floods during winter chances are they will rot and die.

pakalasa

I've planted cut-offs of whitethorn in the Autumn just as an a experiment, some grew some died.
I've also transplanted some little shootings from around the farm. They all grew.
If you take cut-offs I think it is better to use 'root compund' to get the roots going first before you plant them.
Whitethrons are as hardy as hell, they'll grow anywhere.

sea12

Cheers for the reply.

Anyone know what the rate for quicks are in Spring. I have it in my head thats they are about a euro each.

hoochio

End of November 'til beginning of March is the time to plant quicks. Should expect to pay 45/50 per 100 plants from a garden centre and less from a nursery. Size is typically (0+1) 40-60cm.

Oldtree

You could buy slightly older/stronger plants and as generally recommended cut them back to about 12 inches to form a good hedge later on.

Buy the plants now so you get the best available rather than the dregs later on, and put the bunches into a healing in pit for planting later.

Roots start to form at the end of feburary on, so any planting is best done in a dry/frost free spell (imo) in Feb.

If the land gets waterlogged every winter (depending on how long for) alder may be a better option as it can withstand water around its roots for up to 6 months. but if there are already whitethorn thriving there fire ahead.

You may also consider including a few willow, apples, sorbus, etc in the mix for a more natural feel.

Ask about the origion of your plants, imo native origion is best.

sea12

Thanks for the advice. Thats exactly the info I was looking for.

Oldtree

PS. I would also consider slit planting over pit planting. Pit planting in this case could lead to a bit of windthrow as the soil would not recoagulate (for want of a better word) within a reasonable amount of time.

In addition as you would be removing a large amount of the top of the plant you should also remove some of the roots. About a third could come off, mainly the bushy bits but also within the proportion of removed roots could be larger roots to allow for easier slit planting.

sea12

Hi OldTree,

I think i know what slit planting is. Put the plant in at the back of the spade when you put spade in ground. Am i right?
But what is Pit planting?
Cheers

Oldtree

Sorry, I would call any size/shape hole dug for a tree a pit.

With the slit planting, what you describe is more the forestry side of things with smaller plants and roots, perhaps done on a bog.

I would use an "Irish Spade" its got a "T" at the top and foot pegs. For the larger roots I would push the spade into the ground and open the slit up, then reverse the spade, re-insert and open the slit up further, plant plant and close slit using boot, being careful not to damage the plants bark with boot.

Angle the slit into the prevaling wind and plant to the rear of the slit as the tree will put more of its roots down on the windward side.

Plants should be planted to the nursery line, clearly visible line between roots and above ground bark.