Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Nuts instead of quick release.

  • 26-10-2009 9:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,990 ✭✭✭


    Hi all.

    I want to change the front wheel of one of the kids bikes from quick release to some sort of lock nuts to make it easier for him to lock the bike by not having him have to lock the front wheel as well. It looks like a fairly standard 700c x 35 front wheel. Any idea what i need to order and where??

    Thanks..


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    If you already have quick release skewers then you have hollow axles - so nuts won't work.

    You can however use hex nut skewers, which will mean thieves will at least have to use an allen key. A more secure option would be to get pinhead skewers which use a proprietary tool a thief is very unlikely to have.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    Try these products LINK. Still fairly quick release when needed but only openable with the Pit key you get with the set. Good performance but I wouldn't recommend using with disk brakes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭Wez


    I have the hex nut ones, just on my front wheel, find them grand tbh looks really clean compared to the QR's in my oppinion.

    Only slight worry would be the chance of the allen key rounding out the bolt it tightens, due to the tension I'd want (don't fancy me front wheel dettaching during a ride).

    They'd be my overall pick, have had things with "secure" bolts before, and the hassle of trying to find the key when ya need it, isn't worth it for me!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,234 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    CheGuedara wrote: »
    Try these products LINK. Still fairly quick release when needed but only openable with the Pit key you get with the set. Good performance but I wouldn't recommend using with disk brakes

    Ah, I'd noticed my Pinheads coming loose on the front of the MTB, whereas they've been fine on the road bikes.

    I guess it's the torque produced by the disc brake, which acts to force the skewer out?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Lumen wrote: »
    Ah, I'd noticed my Pinheads coming loose on the front of the MTB, whereas they've been fine on the road bikes.

    I guess it's the torque produced by the disc brake, which acts to force the skewer out?
    It is a recognised issue. There's a whole bunch of stuff on this here
    The first basic problem of a disk brake is that the position of the disk calliper means that the frictional force of the brake pads on the disk acts largely to push the wheel downwards, broadly in the direction of the open fork ends. The force that the pads exert on the disk is very large - much much greater than the force from a rim brake (due to the smaller diameter of a disk compared to wheel rim) and it is also at an inappropriate angle.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    Lumen wrote: »
    Ah, I'd noticed my Pinheads coming loose on the front of the MTB, whereas they've been fine on the road bikes.

    I guess it's the torque produced by the disc brake, which acts to force the skewer out?

    Ditto, totally fine on road bikes but sucks @ss when used with the MTB, loosens up and then you hear the disc moving when the hub is loose in the dropouts. Then its: Stop. Tighten. Repeat. Get home. Remove. Put Qrs back on....
    Wez wrote:
    have had things with "secure" bolts before, and the hassle of trying to find the key when ya need it, isn't worth it for me!

    Ththe Pitlock product is pretty handy even though they're keyed though - the key (pit key as they call it) can go on to a keyring and it's pretty user friendly from that point of view.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    Just get some Jubilee clips.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,618 ✭✭✭Civilian_Target


    I'm all for Pitlock, I have them on my bike, but honestly, unless you're planning to park it downtown and your bike is worth more than 400 quid, I wouldn't bother. Just fix the hex skewers and go


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    Why would you go to the trouble of changingthe QR, but not cable or lock the wheels to the frame? If you are going to do that aswell, then theres no point changing the QR. I assume a scumbag with the tools to cut a lock or cable, is going to have enough sense to carry a couple of hex spanners etc. Or maybe the idea is you don't need to carry the lock/cable aswell?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    BostonB wrote: »
    Why would you go to the trouble of changingthe QR, but not cable or lock the wheels to the frame? If you are going to do that aswell, then theres no point changing the QR. I assume a scumbag with the tools to cut a lock or cable, is going to have enough sense to carry a couple of hex spanners etc. Or maybe the idea is you don't need to carry the lock/cable aswell?

    Which is why the type that require a unique 'key' of sorts are a good idea - cant be accessed with a pliers or turned with any standard tool. They should obviate locking the wheels with cables etc up to the point of locking a bike somewhere that would allow thieves prolonged opportunity to a bike.

    And in that instance where long sustained theft attempts are an option they probably wont stop (or start for that matter) at the wheels anyhow.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,009 ✭✭✭✭Run_to_da_hills


    I notice Dublin Bikes have their own unique way of securing their wheels and other fixtures to stop thievelment. :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,056 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    I didn't realise pitlocks had 256 possible keys. My bad.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    I notice Dublin Bikes have their own unique way of securing their wheels and other fixtures to stop thievelment. :o

    [hangs head in shame]Havent been in to the center long enough to have a good nosey at them to be honest short of a quick assess of their weight (holy heck)[/hangs head in shame]

    What do they do with the DBS to secure them? Welded on to the dropouts? :p


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,009 ✭✭✭✭Run_to_da_hills


    BostonB wrote: »
    I didn't realize pitlocks had 256 possible keys. My bad.
    Waste of money, there is nothing that one of these or a hammer and punch can't remove. :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,234 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Waste of money, there is nothing that one of these or a hammer and punch can't remove. :o

    Have you tried?

    I bent a Pitlock seatpost bolt so had the opportunity to attack it with a few tools, and it's pretty tough.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,031 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    Waste of money, there is nothing that one of these or a hammer and punch can't remove. :o

    I don't think there's anywhere on a pitlock skewer that one of these can get purchase - too many rounded/angled smooth surfaces.

    Even if I'm wrong, fewer thieves have those or punches etc, but all of them do have these against which the pitlocks are waaay more secure than these


Advertisement