full fill v partial fill

rodred

hi,

can anyone tell me the pros and cons of rusing the full fill bead insulation
over the partial fill cavity.

i am looking at doing a cavity wall build,
100mm block
40mm cavity
60mm xtramterm cavity plus
100m block
can anyone do tell me what the uvalue on this would be? and if it would change if i used and aerated block on the inside? or else used 25mm insulated plasterboad.

could a full fill 100 block, 100 bead fill & 100 block do the same value?

cheers
Rob

RKQ

Seek advise from your BER Agent and Certifying Architectural Technician, Architect or Engineer.

Briefly IMO 100mm full fill bead wont comply with current requirements. (This was confirmed in a lecture at the Building Exhibition - the expert speaker has surveyed a number of completed properties and spoke from personal experience)
80mm xtratherm with 40mm cavity and 38mm insulated plasterboard dry-lining will also comply.
95 / 100mm Aeroboard Platinium will comply without dry-lining! Seek advice from their Engineer regarding walltie spacings etc.
Aerated blocks will increase the insulation value of the wall - see manufacturers web page for details.

You are right to ask this question as it can be difficult to understand. But it depends on a number of factors including site exposure and house orientation. Ideally this issue would be decided prior to tendering.

liamolaighin

RKQ wrote: »

Seek advise from your BER Agent and Certifying Architectural Technician, Architect or Engineer.

Briefly IMO 100mm full fill bead wont comply with current requirements. (This was confirmed in a lecture at the Building Exhibition - the expert speaker has surveyed a number of completed properties and spoke from personal experience)
80mm xtratherm with 40mm cavity and 38mm insulated plasterboard dry-lining will also comply.
95 / 100mm Aeroboard Platinium will comply without dry-lining! Seek advice from their Engineer regarding walltie spacings etc.
Aerated blocks will increase the insulation value of the wall - see manufacturers web page for details.

You are right to ask this question as it can be difficult to understand. But it depends on a number of factors including site exposure and house orientation. Ideally this issue would be decided prior to tendering.

What about 15omm cavity bead filled??? Ive been told this is way to go and is cheaper than insulating and then dry lining also

clint_eastman

liamolaighin wrote: »

What about 15omm cavity bead filled??? Ive been told this is way to go and is cheaper than insulating and then dry lining also

I've worked out a u-value of 0.201 for a fully pumped 150mm cavity which is brought down to 0.155 when used with in conjunction with a 47.5mm insulated slab. Don't quote me on the figures but I'm happy that they are correct. I've used a fill insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.033 for the calcs, this would be a higher spec than some companies offerings of 0.04.

frag4

A 150mm full fill bonded bead costs about 9 euro a m2 incl. VAT.

getfit

Along with the standard 60mm kinspan I slabbed my walls with insulated plasterboard.

If anyone is debating the pros and cons of which option to go with, one factor I'd put forward is the "quick heat" the insulated platerboard gives you. Even if you have a large cavity with loads of insulation the house still lets the heat through the inner block before it hits the insulation on the other side of the wall. That block takes heating and slows up the initial heating of the house. When I first started heating my new house (built less than a year) I was shocked at how quickly the house could go from 16 degress to 19 degrees compared with most other houses. Considering the modern lifestyle of houses being vacant during the working week and quick heat needed in evenings and possible mornings, the insulated plasterboard is very handy in that regard.

The other side to that arguement would (I assume) be that the well insulated cavity would hold the heat better and loose it less quickly than the insulated platerboard....

My central heating system has timers on my zones and I assumed I'd set the timer for when I expected to be home from work. In reality what happens is I arrive home and the first thing I do is hit boost on the system because by the time I've sorted myself out in the house - emptied bags, checked post, put on TV, started dinner etc. the boost will be getting the house nice and warm, due (I think in good part) to the insulated plasterboard. I don't need the house to be warm on arrival as it will warm up so quickly once I turn the heating on.
A lifetsyle factor in the decision though.