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Under sink water heater - type to get

  • 16-10-2009 8:18am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 62 ✭✭


    Looking for under sink water heater unvented, 10 litres, 2kw.
    Rang a few shops and they supply the Ariston P10 for about €75. This model is however dis-continued and the newer models on-line are closer to €150.

    I wonder if anyone has installed a P10 and had any problems with them.
    I don't want to buy the cheaper P10 and find the newer models were less hassle to fit, maintain or use.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    R T large are the suppliers for Ariston water heaters and will give you the best price:http://www.build.ie/company_477408.htm

    My advice to you would be to fit the water heater to UK regs(http://www.ariston.co.uk/uploads/doc47be9f9c70766.pdf) and not Irish/European regs which are cack, the benefits are that the expansion of the water heater is taken in to account so the heater will have no expansion issues, the 6 bar safety valve is designed to have copper connected to it so you can run a bit of pipe to a safe place, if the safety valve opens there is no drama with the water thats discharged. These heaters need a minimum of 1 bar mains pressure to operate without that they can overheat, Gary


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    http://www.boschwaterheater.com/HelpfulResources/TechnicalSupport/AristonModels/P10P15Models/Troubleshoot/tabid/653/Default.aspx


    More information on the P10 range, problems wtc just to help. I use to very use between 2 types of waterheater

    1. The ariston as distributed by RT large

    2. The pony as distributed by excel.

    I found the ariston to be wide requiring a 700mm vanity unit to hide it where as the pony was long and easier to hide.

    Both good heaters imo.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 139 ✭✭slattsteen


    Guys, im gonna have to fit one of these tomo, last one lasted only 7 years( atlantic). My new ariston came without an electric lead, how should i power it? it came with a valve, do i need a pressure release valve?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    slattsteen wrote: »
    Guys, im gonna have to fit one of these tomo, last one lasted only 7 years( atlantic). My new ariston came without an electric lead, how should i power it? it came with a valve, do i need a pressure release valve?

    At the rear of the unit there is an opening to thread a lead through to inside of the front cover which is held on with a couple of concealed screws. Make good your connections on the heater and preferably then connect the other end of the lead to a switched fused spur.
    There should have been a chrome plated non-return safety valve in the box with the unit. Fit this to the pipe inlet side only. Ideally fit a shut off valve and a non -return valve between your water supply and the water heater. You will most likely need a couple of 1/2" 312 fittings for the connectors on the heater.
    Also I would recommend that all your pipe work is done in copper, especially on the outlet side of the heater unit.
    If you have doubts about it, might be best to get a Plumber to install it.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    slattsteen wrote: »
    Guys, im gonna have to fit one of these tomo, last one lasted only 7 years( atlantic). My new ariston came without an electric lead, how should i power it? it came with a valve, do i need a pressure release valve?

    Amazingly unvented water heaters can be very very dangerous if fitted wrong, asking about fitting a blow off would put you in the installers to be worried about so the above advice on getting a plumber would be good advice.

    Read the instructions I linked to above and fit it asper UK water regs(as there are no regs here :eek:) and manufactures wiring requirements, the wiring requirements are for a 3 kw but I'm not clever enough to give you 2kw requirements.

    The heater comes with a Crome 8/9 bar blow off, this should be fitted on a T leaving the cold supply open for expansion, if you don't take expansion in to account it can end in tears with someone doing the hot foot shuffle. If you read the above manual you will see the required lenth of cold pipe to take up expansion if you don't have enough then fit a expansion vessel, if you have over 3 1/2 bar incoming then fit a pressure reducing valve, also they come with dialectic connecters which prevent electrolysis try not to split them;).


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