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long term car storage

  • 14-10-2009 8:34pm
    #1
    Posts: 17,378 ✭✭✭✭


    since there's no search feature, i've had to start a thread.. i'm looking at parking my car up for 2-4 years in the garage attached to the home house.

    what do I need to look out for?
    i'm guessing a de-humidifier switched on now and then and a car cover. is there anything i should do with the engine? like oil or that.. what about moisture inside the car, like i know cars get a musty smell so how would i stop that happening?

    and it's a 1990 bmw so rust would be an issue.. would the car be likely to rot while i'm away?



    any advice would be appreciated.. since the car wont sell for what i think it's worth, might aswell garage it and it would prob go up in value a bit eventually.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,222 ✭✭✭robbie_998


    i think take the battery out, 4 years untouched might wear it down quite a bit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,450 ✭✭✭CharlieCroker


    I'd advise posting this in classic cars. they tend to have their cars parked up for long periods of time and would prob know most of the tricks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,222 ✭✭✭robbie_998


    I'd advise posting this in classic cars. they tend to have their cars parked up for long periods of time and would prob know most of the tricks

    well now, general tips for any cars apply too.

    like i would suggest leaving all windows just a small tiny bit open, i wrecking it would be ok since it'll be in a garage.

    if the garage is flat try to leave the hand brake off but also jam something around the wheels so it dosent move like bricks or something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,986 ✭✭✭ambro25


    robbie_998 wrote: »
    if the garage is flat try to leave the hand brake off but also jam something around the wheels so it dosent move like bricks or something.
    For the period of time of 2 to 4 years, I'd actually put it on bricks (take wheels off), as the tyres will otherwise get flat spots.

    Don't drain fluids (or replace them yet), bear in mind that you'll have to replace them all when hibernation ends.

    Same with engine belts (all of them), best to change them when hibernation ends (they develop cracks over time when dry/not used).

    Try to run the petrol tank near-empty (otherwise you'll just have to syphon and throw/burn what's in it after 2 to 4 years) but beware of running it 'too dry' and dislodging any 'crap' at the bottom of the tank, that might then find its way to the engine.

    1 windows slightly open is enough, shouldn't really need to if the air/aircon system has an 'open' position.

    That's all I can think of right now, from experience (had our '98 MX-5 dry-garaged for 2 years between 06 and 08, the "resurrection" was delicate to say the least).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 93 ✭✭Shires


    ambro25 wrote: »
    Same with engine belts (all of them), best to change them when hibernation ends (they develop cracks over time when dry/not used).

    If its a 1990 it most likely has a timing belt, and if you leave the old belt on it will almost certainly break soon after putting it back on the road after that length of time left inactive.

    The tyres could be rotten/unsafe after that long off the road, don't know too much about this one.

    Lube up door locks, catches etc?


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  • Posts: 17,378 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    good suggestions all round here.. well it's got a timing chain (318is), is this any different do ye think?

    i'd be asking my mum to start it every month or so while i'm away and leaving it running or drive it around the house. taking wheels off isn't an option as the car may have to be moved out of garage now and then.
    good call on the tyres.. i need new ones and was gonna buy them before putting it away. safer to wait till afterwards i suppose.



    any particular insurance company recommended for covering it while it's off the road? i'm on quinn. i havn't checked but i'd be pretty unhappy if i had to pay more than 150-200 a year to insure it against theft while it's in a garage on gated property..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    I have some experience will long term storage of the type you mention.

    Definitely take the whhels off the car.

    When it comes to fluids, I do the following:

    1. Replace oil and filter. Then fill crankcase to the top with oil - but remember to drain before starting!!! This will prevent any condensation from forming in the upper parts of the engine.

    2. Run car to very low on fuel. Fill to the brim after adding a good quality fuel stabiliser. Again this will prevent condensation from forming.

    3. Unhook and remove battery from car. MAke sure you know your radio code first!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,222 ✭✭✭robbie_998


    get off quinn !!!

    if te car is going to be driving around then you might aswell forget our advice.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,801 ✭✭✭✭Gary ITR



    i'd be asking my mum to start it every month or so while i'm away and leaving it running or drive it around the house.

    This will do more harm than good. Unless the car is getting a good run every week or two then it'd actually be better to just leave it be


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭Seweryn


    since there's no search feature, i've had to start a thread.. i'm looking at parking my car up for 2-4 years in the garage attached to the home house.

    what do I need to look out for?
    Wash the car properly especially underneath (remove any soil), let it dry, wax the bodywork, treat the rubber seals, hover the interior very well to remove any sand and soil which catches and keeps the damp inside. If the engine will be started occasionally then it's fine. Make sure that the wheels are moved from time to time and the brake pedal is pushed, so you can avoid any seizure of the brake calipers and discs. After the hibernation replace all fluids - oils, brake fluid, coolant, filters, belts, check electrics, etc.
    Good Luck.


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