NCT fudge...

slemons

Hi Guys...
I failed my NCT 2 weeks ago for the brake percentage. Its supposed to be 55% of the bodyweight of the car, but mine was only 48%.

Now, im back in for a retest on Tuesday.

The car only cost me 230euro so i havent done much work on it since.

I have almost dried out the petrol tank so that should make it lighter (and bring the ratio up)

I got some advice from my mechanic to drive for a few minutes with the handbrake engaged to heat up the cyclinders, and then pull a few skidds before going in.

Also i was told to clean the pads with a wire brush. I dont know much about this. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Any other advice on getting this baby to pass? Its a great car and only barely failed the last time. 7% with a full full tank of petrol...

Thanks
John

majnus

what car is it?

slemons

Citroen Saxo 1.1 99...

Dartz

Get your damn brakes fixed.

230 is cheap for a car. Maybe it was cheap for a reason? So long as it's not failing for anything else, you'll save money in the long run when you don't knacker the disks/drums by wearing the material down to the liner, or pissing brake fluid everywhere through a broken seal.

BrianD3

If you haven't done so, take out the spare wheel, jack, wheebrace etc. Will save another few kgs.

Ferris

slemons wrote: »

Hi Guys...
I failed my NCT 2 weeks ago for the brake percentage. Its supposed to be 55% of the bodyweight of the car, but mine was only 48%.

Now, im back in for a retest on Tuesday.

The car only cost me 230euro so i havent done much work on it since.

I have almost dried out the petrol tank so that should make it lighter (and bring the ratio up)

I got some advice from my mechanic to drive for a few minutes with the handbrake engaged to heat up the cyclinders, and then pull a few skidds before going in.

Also i was told to clean the pads with a wire brush. I dont know much about this. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Any other advice on getting this baby to pass? Its a great car and only barely failed the last time. 7% with a full full tank of petrol...

Thanks
John

If your brakes are failing that badly then something is not right with the brakes of your car. None of what you're saying will remedy the problem in the long term which will leave you with a car that is a danger to yourself and others. Bring the car to a decent mechanic (Not the muppet you're talkin to) and get it fixed.

Bottom line, cars cost money to fix and maintain. If you can't afford it - stop driving.

peasant

BrianD3 wrote: »

If you haven't done so, take out the spare wheel, jack, wheebrace etc. Will save another few kgs.

...and take out the seats as well, smash the windows and replace with perspex, the bootlid and bonnet surely could be left off as well

Get it fixed man ...brakes are kinda essential

Solitaire

That's been dropped - when I got the Astra tested it had to be above 60%, not 55%!

And getting the brakes done on an older car can be a very expensive and thankless task - I found that the hard way with the Astra. Over €400 replacing almost everything just for a few percentage points gain in the NCT.

If the fault can be traced back to a single culprit then get it fixed ASAP - for safety if nothing else! But if the system is just generally worn down then get ready for a big hit on the wallet - and it still has to be done ASAP I'm afraid.

slemons

Easy guys...
I got the car off a friend who emigrated. I know him and the car for years.
My mechanic friend is one of the top honda mechnaics in Ireland.

The car brakes barely failed. 7% with a full tank of gas. Even the nct man said as much.
If it was dodgy would he have left me on the road for another 30 days?

I do see your point though and i appreciate it.
Any constructive idea's on getting that 7% back?

Thanks again...

rebel.ranter

Bleed the brakes if you (or your Honda friend) know how. It will only cost you less than a tenner for a bottle of brake fluid. The pads are probably gone hard too so you are probably best off changing them (€40 should get you a spurious set for front or rear). Is it the front or rear ones that are below par?
Maybe buy a tin of brake cleaner too to clean down all the brake components. Remove the pads & scrub the faces with a wire brush. They are probably glazed over. Maybe even give the discs a good scrub both sides with a wire brush.

peasant

slemons wrote: »

If it was dodgy would he have left me on the road for another 30 days?

So you're gonna fudge it, barely pass and then wait for the brakes to self-heal or auto-improve over the long term, yes ?

mamakevf

These cars have a tendency to leaking rear wheel cylinders and would say that one is on the way out. If you let it go it will catastrophically fail.
Please get it looked at.
You have been warned.

peasant

Oh, btw ...do they actually weigh cars at the NCT (couldn't say that I'd noticed before) or isn't that percentage calculated from the max. vehicle weight (including load and passengers) which would make more sense in regards to brakes?

mickdw

I think they just have a weight on their system from the manufacturer so its nothing to do with the weight of the car on the day.

If no leaks in the system and everything is generally fairly safe, do as stated above... clean everything, check for free movement of all parts and roughen the surfaces of the pads & disc and bleed system.

BrianD3

mickdw wrote: »

I think they just have a weight on their system from the manufacturer so its nothing to do with the weight of the car on the day.

Looking back at old NCT white sheets I think they use the weight of the car that they measure on the day. For one of our cars the lightest it has been measured at was 1055 kg and the heaviest was 1109 kg. The results for the brake efficiency suggest that these weights were used in the calculation rather than a constant (kerb) weight being used.

The max laden weight of the car is defintely not used as if it were the efficiency result printed on the sheet is way off.

ianobrien

mamakevf wrote: »

These cars have a tendency to leaking rear wheel cylinders and would say that one is on the way out. If you let it go it will catastrophically fail.
Please get it looked at.
You have been warned.

I had one of them let go in an AX (same basic car) on the driveway - Brake fluid everywhere!!!!!!!!

Never skimp on the brakes - they stop you.... If you mess up the engine, you don't go

road_high

ianobrien wrote: »

I had one of them let go in an AX (same basic car) on the driveway - Brake fluid everywhere!!!!!!!!

Never skimp on the brakes - they stop you.... If you mess up the engine, you don't go

Really agree with you there. One of the most important working features of any car. And considering the Saxo brakes are from any review I've ever read anyhow not exactly the best in he world I think I would want 'em 100%. Surely a set of brake pads would be fairly cheap for one as well.

peasant

BrianD3 wrote: »

The results for the brake efficiency suggest that these weights were used in the calculation rather than a constant (kerb) weight being used.

The max laden weight of the car is defintely not used as if it were the efficiency result printed on the sheet is way off.

On second thought that actually makes sense, as on a roller test the weight of the car would have some effect on the friction and thus the brake force

bbam

These cars are known to have problematic brakes... You got the car cheap enough, spend a few quid and do it right...
I don't care too much about you but think of the poor innocent you might hit/kill if the brakes fail...

I can't believe this thread hasn't been locked...

Del2005

Get your brakes fixed. Or if not can you txt me any time your driving so I can get off the road. There are enough dodgy cars on the road don't add to them. If the car only cost 230 then even if it costs 400 to fix the brakes it's still a cheap car. Can you tell me where your friend works so I don't drop my car in to be "fixed" by him?

Savage Tyrant

Get the brakes fixed FFS!!! Not only are you putting your life in danger, but you are putting the lives of your family and friends in danger without their knowledge. And also my life, and those of my children, or any other unfortunate sod that happens to be on the road at the same time as you.
Give yourself a good feckin' shake!

peasant

peasant wrote: »

Oh, btw ...do they actually weigh cars at the NCT (couldn't say that I'd noticed before) or isn't that percentage calculated from the max. vehicle weight (including load and passengers) which would make more sense in regards to brakes?

My Merc failed the retest on the handbrake performance, went home adjusted and went staight back, infairness they agreed to retest it even though I hadn't booked it, the weight of the car was 150kg different than an hour previously with the same NCT tester in it !! Different test lane though.

tommmy1979

welcome to the high horse brigade of the boards.ie motoring forum..sigh

probably best to wear a helmet the next time you visit..

snowman707

slemons wrote: »

I got some advice from my mechanic to drive for a few minutes with the handbrake engaged to heat up the cyclinders, and then pull a few skidds before going in.

get you brakes fixed by somebody qualified, the above advise is utter bullsh**.

In fairness if the mechanic is one of the top Honda guys in the country why are you on here picking the brains of forum users ??

Zube

RoverJames wrote: »

In fairness if the mechanic is one of the top Honda guys in the country why are you on here picking the brains of forum users ??

Possibly because the "top Honda guy" would appear to be certifiably insane.

Cosmo K

peasant wrote: »

On second thought that actually makes sense, as on a roller test the weight of the car would have some effect on the friction and thus the brake force

The shock absorber tester weighs each car, just before the actual shock absorber test starts (thats the 2 second delay, between driving on to the shock tester and the shock tester starting), the brake performance is then calculated, based on the actual weight of the car.

kona

slemons wrote: »

Hi Guys...
I failed my NCT 2 weeks ago for the brake percentage. Its supposed to be 55% of the bodyweight of the car, but mine was only 48%.

Now, im back in for a retest on Tuesday.

The car only cost me 230euro so i havent done much work on it since.

I have almost dried out the petrol tank so that should make it lighter (and bring the ratio up)

I got some advice from my mechanic to drive for a few minutes with the handbrake engaged to heat up the cyclinders, and then pull a few skidds before going in.

Also i was told to clean the pads with a wire brush. I dont know much about this. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Any other advice on getting this baby to pass? Its a great car and only barely failed the last time. 7% with a full full tank of petrol...

Thanks
John

LOL.




That is possibly the most retarded statement Ive ever heard a person say. How do you manage to wipe your arse??


Gob + ****e.

slemons

kona wrote: »

LOL.




That is possibly the most retarded statement Ive ever heard a person say. How do you manage to wipe your arse??


Gob + ****e.

lol - you heard me say all this? What else did you hear?
Thanks for a great thread guys...

kona

slemons wrote: »

lol - you heard me say all this? What else did you hear?
Thanks for a great thread guys...

Yes I had to read it out loud as it was so dumb I didnt believe it.

I also heard your "Top Honda mechanic" served his apprenticship in smiths toystore in the lego section, he passed his driving test on gran turismo in the software zone.

Funny the things you hear.:pac::p

stifz

slemons wrote: »

Hi Guys...
I failed my NCT 2 weeks ago for the brake percentage. Its supposed to be 55% of the bodyweight of the car, but mine was only 48%.

Now, im back in for a retest on Tuesday.

The car only cost me 230euro so i havent done much work on it since.

I have almost dried out the petrol tank so that should make it lighter (and bring the ratio up)

I got some advice from my mechanic to drive for a few minutes with the handbrake engaged to heat up the cyclinders, and then pull a few skidds before going in.

Also i was told to clean the pads with a wire brush. I dont know much about this. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Any other advice on getting this baby to pass? Its a great car and only barely failed the last time. 7% with a full full tank of petrol...

Thanks
John

Your having a laugh mate.. Fix your breaks ..

-Chris-

kona wrote: »

LOL.




That is possibly the most retarded statement Ive ever heard a person say. How do you manage to wipe your arse??


Gob + ****e.

Kona infracted for abusing other users.

Tone it down Kona.

Del2005

tommmy1979 wrote: »

welcome to the high horse brigade of the boards.ie motoring forum..sigh

probably best to wear a helmet the next time you visit..

So you'd let your nearest and dearest into a car which has bad brakes? The NCT is the bare minimum to be considered safe. The OP should be aiming for 90%
+ not the bare minimum and then in 2 years time they may still be safe.