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Electrical Hob - Advice

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  • 27-08-2009 5:05am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    Moved into a new apartment recently and when I turned on the cooker a socket blew.

    Subsequently traced the wiring and found that:

    {BS 1363} ---- Extension Lead --- {Double Adapter}
    Hob
    Fridge

    Now am pretty sure most hobs are on their own circuit and breaker.

    The owners sparkie came to fix it and put back in the same setup more or less.

    Model info: http://www.teka.com/html/my/downloads/product/PR-0000079.pdf

    Rated to 6000W. Am sure all the plugs in use have only a 13A fuse.

    I tried to explain my concerns but language barrier prevented that .. (am living in Malaysia).

    Anything I can to make it a little safer? Am pretty sure it's going to blow again and at least then I will have proven my point to the owner and his sparkie.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 166 ✭✭SilverBER


    Get RECI to have a look if the sparkie wont fix it properly. The cooker should be wired through a 32A breaker.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    SilverBER wrote: »
    Get RECI to have a look if the sparkie wont fix it properly. The cooker should be wired through a 32A breaker.

    RECI don't operate in Malaysia, but it'd be a nice trip to check the wiring


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 166 ✭✭SilverBER


    Sorry I misunderstood. Instead of RECI try MECI or RECM.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    apart from a new cable, can you feed the other items from a trainling lead from another circuit?

    I dont know the regs in that country, but I assume the voltage is 230V ac as it says that on the pdf you linked to.

    even if the hob was the only thing you had plugged into that circuit you could only use half of it at full load before it will trip, i.e. 2800W if its a 13 Amp plug top

    It all depends on the size of the cable feeding the circuit that feeds the hob. If is a socket circuit cabled in 2.5 sq.mm cable it can only supply about 4000/4500Watts, but it might be a 4 or 6sq cable. In that case you could dedicate that curcuit to the hob and fit suitable breakers on the fuse board and rewire the hob with a bigger flex to a flexed outlet isolator switch, (a typical irish cooker switch)

    the 13 Amp fuse in the plug is doing its job in blowing, but if the cabling is in place you could upgrate the cable from the new cooker switch to the hob.

    It would not be advisable to keep the sockets and the hob on the same circuit if you upgraded it.


    the simple thing to show the guys there is the maths.

    a 13 amp plug x by supply voltage of 230v = 13*230= 2900 Watts.

    Yet the hob can draw up to 6000 Watts

    But the 13 Amp plug protects the cable, the cable will have to be big enough to supply the 6000 Watts. if its not you will need a new cable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 648 ✭✭✭Tenshot


    Quite off-topic, but this reminded me of the electric shower in one of the budget hotels I stayed at on Langkawi island, when I visited Malaysia in 2004:

    MY_1274.jpg

    I did have a shower there, but very carefully..


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Tenshot wrote: »
    Quite off-topic, but this reminded me of the electric shower in one of the budget hotels I stayed at on Langkawi island, when I visited Malaysia in 2004:

    MY_1274.jpg

    I did have a shower there, but very carefully..


    lol wow. Brings me back to a very early bit of advice that I received many years ago

    "engineering is all about standards"

    Very applicable in this case.

    However another bit of advice I received later on from a good friend of 2011's was

    Question
    "how do you tell the difference between an orange and an elephants ass"
    Answer
    "suck it and see"

    This would def not be a situation where sucking it would be advisable.


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