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Element PBS-1 Silencer Problem

  • 24-08-2009 8:12pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭


    Hi guys,

    I just got an Element Aluminium PBS-1 silencer from RSOV today and I tried it on my Kalash AKS-74N and while I was test firing it I found that the BBs weren't even making it out of the silencer and were shattering on the edge of the aperture at the front (it's only 1cm across). I've tested it with the top off + foam in and it works fine and with no foam + the top on and the BBs don't come out. I've adjusted the hop up several times and it never worked with the front end on.

    I'm thinking that I need to drill or file out the aperture a bit more to make it fit. Is this wise and can anyone give me some tips on how to do it properly? should I use a drill or a file? Sorry, but I'm a total n00b at these kind of things... :D


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 941 ✭✭✭hairyman


    You could drill it with a 12mm HSS bit,,just wrap it in a rag and put it in a vice,,,be sure not have it to tight,,,another way around it would be to use a 510mm inner barrel,,

    Does the mock silencer have any movement,,ie does it wobble at all when screwed on to your replica.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    hairyman wrote: »
    You could drill it with a 12mm HSS bit,,just wrap it in a rag and put it in a vice,,,be sure not have it to tight,,,another way around it would be to use a 510mm inner barrel,,

    Does the mock silencer have any movement,,ie does it wobble at all when screwed on to your replica.

    Nope. It's totally solid. No wobble at all.

    I'm thinking about increasing the diameter to 15-17mms. I don't think 12mm would be enough to be honest. But what I'm worried about is how does one keep the drill bit perfectly centred?

    EDIT: Also, what does HSS mean?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 997 ✭✭✭.22 Lover


    HSS stands for high speed steel drill bit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,478 ✭✭✭Chuck the Buck


    HSS - High Speed Steel. If you go into a hardware shop (woodies, homebase etc) you'll see a selection of drill bits. The HSS ones are for drilling through metal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,440 ✭✭✭✭thermo


    ZeroSignal wrote: »


    EDIT: Also, what does HSS mean?

    high speed steel

    EDIT: beaten to the punch


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    .22 Lover wrote: »
    HSS stands for high speed steel drill bit
    HSS - High Speed Steel.
    thermo wrote: »
    high speed steel

    EDIT: beaten to the punch

    Nice! :pac: Thanks guys. But I'm still very cautious about doing anything. How am I to ensure that I don't send that new High Speed Steel drill bit off centre and ruin the part?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 997 ✭✭✭.22 Lover


    That depends do you have a steady hand?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    .22 Lover wrote: »
    That depends do you have a steady hand?

    Gah! I just want to make sure that I don't have an ovaled or off centre aperture... :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 997 ✭✭✭.22 Lover


    If its of by a millimeter or so nobody will notice


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,463 ✭✭✭Leftyflip


    Seeing as it is already a 10mm hole, you should be ok, it acts like a giant pilot hole, so the drill bit will easily stay centred.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭desertstorm


    Ideally you'd use a lathe if you can get access to one.....

    personally I'd file it out, with a bit of patience and care it should turn out looking ok, you've got a much larger chance of messing it up if you use a drill and don't have the proper tools for the job!

    just use rough file to widen it out and then finer files to smooth the surface and achieve a more uniform circle, it's not hard to do if you take your time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 88 ✭✭kevinw07


    i had the same problems with my silencer , if your one came with a clockwise adaptor too this should screw on to the front end of the silencer and it's usually a little bigger, this sorted mine out.

    I also spaced the foam out a little bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    kevinw07 wrote: »
    i had the same problems with my silencer , if your one came with a clockwise adaptor too this should screw on to the front end of the silencer and it's usually a little bigger, this sorted mine out.

    I also spaced the foam out a little bit.

    Erm... Sorry, I don't quite understand. Mine is this one:
    psb1_sil%5Bekm%5D300x240%5Bekm%5D.jpg

    EDIT: And what would spacing the foam do?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 947 ✭✭✭Frank the Manc


    you could get a round hand file and take it a mil at a time the whole way around.

    are the bb's impacting high , low or off centre.

    if you can remove the front cap, put a sheet of paper around it secured by an elastic band and fire a few shots, that will tell you wher the point of impact it and you may be able to tighetn the fit with Teflon tape or an o-ring on the muzzel end and just screw the can down over it for a really tight fit.

    how do you find the weigth of the aluminium one on the fron end of the gun?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 11,001 ✭✭✭✭Masada


    before going at it with tools though, try fitting an 8mm o-ring to the inner barrel at the front to centre the barrel within the outer barrel. this is usually enough to get you sorted. if that doesn't work then it could well be that the silencer is ever so slightly crooked. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    you could get a round hand file and take it a mil at a time the whole way around.

    are the bb's impacting high , low or off centre.

    if you can remove the front cap, put a sheet of paper around it secured by an elastic band and fire a few shots, that will tell you wher the point of impact it and you may be able to tighetn the fit with Teflon tape or an o-ring on the muzzel end and just screw the can down over it for a really tight fit.

    how do you find the weigth of the aluminium one on the fron end of the gun?

    Good ideas, Frank. :cool:

    The BBs seemed to be impacting all over the place. I think it was to do with the fact that the BBs are ~6mm and the silencer's front aperture was 10mm. This meant that any deviation over the 16mm length of the silencer would cause the BBs to hit the edge of the aperture like I was seeing.

    The weight of the aluminium one is fine. It doesn't seem much heavier than the original steel flash-hider.
    Masada wrote: »
    before going at it with tools though, try fitting an 8mm o-ring to the inner barrel at the front to centre the barrel within the outer barrel. this is usually enough to get you sorted. if that doesn't work then it could well be that the silencer is ever so slightly crooked. :)

    I actually just paid a visit to Metalex Engineering Ltd. in Park West and they used a lathe to widen the aperture to the same width as the foam and it looks super clean! I'll be trying it out once I get home and I'll let you know how I get on.

    Also, I think this thread is a handy warning to anyone considering getting one of these silencers as my gun is pretty damn accurate and I still had problems with no BBs making it out of the silencer intact. I also know I'm not the only person who's had this problem before. There are 2 cases I've seen other than mine (Milsimgeek, I think one name was, and some other guy I can't remember. Rusmil or something?).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭ZeroSignal


    Okay, having the guys at Metalex Engineering lathe out the aperture was great! The gun works perfectly and silencer takes the snap out of the shot. I just need to quieten the gear box at some stage but other than that it works fine.

    It's a teeny tiny bit front heavy though, but I'll get used to it.

    Worth it...? Yes.


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