!![HELP]!! m4 problem

IIIAcHmEdIII

hey guys i got a new dboys m4 s system today . and i charged the battery for 5 hours after dischargeing it now i got to fire about 100 bbs and it stoped working now when i pull the trigger i hear like a click . I was wondering if there is any way i can fix this problem any help would be a big help .

the battery is a NI-MH 1200 8.4V MINI TYPE I THINK

Washington Irving

Your using the battery that came with it I trust. Those batteries are s**te. Get yourself a firefox battery like this http://www.eirsoft.ie/store/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=65 and buy a new charger as well. The same thing happened to my M4. If your planning on skirmishing it, your gonna want to buy a new battery anyway.
Hope this helps.;)

swiftblade

Well 5 hours sounds a bit to much. I would say you overcharged it. A new attery is the best idea. Get a standered charger and a firefox battery and you would be all set for a skirmish

IIIAcHmEdIII

thanks for the replies lads btu i charged it for 5 hours just as eirsoft told me to and the manual said 12 hours so i charged for 5 and shouldnt i get more then just 100 shots from 5 hours chargeing

Leftyflip

Its a Dboys battery. No. I learned the hard way..

swiftblade

Well im guessing its a 1100 mah battery? And the 450 mah charger? That would mean it would need a 3 hour charge

IIIAcHmEdIII

well the batterys have 1200 mah and the charger is 450ma

Washington Irving

IIIAcHmEdIII wrote: »

thanks for the replies lads btu i charged it for 5 hours just as eirsoft told me to and the manual said 12 hours so i charged for 5 and shouldnt i get more then just 100 shots from 5 hours chargeing

You have to charge it longer the first time to get it going properly, so Eirsoft were right. Its just a bad quality battery.

swiftblade

This is a great site

http://www.greenbatteries.com/batterycalc.html

You should be charging it for 3.2 hours it says

IIIAcHmEdIII

oh so i over charged it then great . i just checked the voltage on the battery its 9.11 volts on dc

Leftyflip

Could be worse...
Coulda been a lipo and you coulda gotten hurt. I only use my Dboys battery as a back up, I got a fairly decent batt off ebay

swiftblade

Well chances is are the battery was poo anyway. You can pick up a good battery and charger for around 40 euro

IIIAcHmEdIII

if i loward the voltage in it would it work again

swiftblade

hhhmmm im not sure but there is a trick to get them working again. Correct me if im wrong but isnt it something like moving the cells around?

Leftyflip

Maybe, but that requires unsoldering cells, and soldering back in place, which can be dangerous if not done right. Also applying too much heat for too long can cause a cell to lose its capacity, making it useless, you're better off buying a new battery.

IIIAcHmEdIII

all the cells are joined in a plastic case . im gona ring eirsoft and they can agive me a free batery and pay for shiping coz they told me how long to charge it for

swiftblade

Mate the free batteries you get with a AEG are not ment to taken seriously. They are free extras. Eirsoft will tell you the exact same thing. If you are serious about airsoft you need to get a good battery. You can pick up a battery for €24

IIIAcHmEdIII

yeh well hopefully i might get money off or somtin

IIIAcHmEdIII

thanks guys for the replies

Leftyflip

It's not Eirsoft's fault, most clones (especially Dboys) are packaged with low end batteries, yours could have been badly assembled causing it to be faulty, which has nothing to do with Eirsoft, the first time I charged my battery I charged it for 5 hours and it worked no problem.
There's very little point in demanding that Eirsoft give you a free battery, just by yourself a Firefox battery.

Masada

The standard battery's are really only a something they throw in to get you going being cheapo chinese and all,. if you plan on getting any skirmishing out if it you'll need a good quality battery that will last a lot longer. try brands like Firefox, Sanyo or Intelect.

Also, 5 hours is the correct charging time for a new battery.

xxboylarzxx

SAULGOODE9 wrote: »

Your using the battery that came with it I trust. Those batteries are s**te. Get yourself a firefox battery like this http://www.eirsoft.ie/store/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=65 and buy a new charger as well. The same thing happened to my M4. If your planning on skirmishing it, your gonna want to buy a new battery anyway.
Hope this helps.;)

he is right,i had the same problem with my dboys m4,then i just bought a g&g gr16!haha you would want to get a new one,and a spare if you can afford a spare!

M.I.A187

i had the same problem with the battery i got wit me m4 s system, standard batteries are s***e...just buy a new one,u'll be sorted..

NakedDex

swiftblade wrote: »

Well 5 hours sounds a bit to much. I would say you overcharged it. A new attery is the best idea. Get a standered charger and a firefox battery and you would be all set for a skirmish

IIIAcHmEdIII wrote: »

well the batterys have 1200 mah and the charger is 450ma

IIIAcHmEdIII wrote: »

oh so i over charged it then great . i just checked the voltage on the battery its 9.11 volts on dc

Ok, there's a lot of confusion floating around here about batteries it seems.

The packs that come with clones are always a bit hit and miss. Sometimes you'll get one that works fine for years, other times you'll get one with a dry solder joint and it just won't work right. A branded pack is always recommended.

When charging, the charge rate is dependant on the battery chemistry. Ni-Cd packs must be trickle charged, that being charged using a low current. Ni-MH packs, by contrast, must be rapid charged, that being using a high current.
A rule of thumb to work out what the high current threshold for packs like these would be anything more than half of the capacity rating of the pack. So if your pack states it has a 1200mAh capacity, charging with 600mA+ would be a fast charge, high current rate. Anything below 599mA, would be a slow charge, low current rate.
Remember, Ni-MH are FAST, and Ni-Cd are SLOW. Do not get these mixed up or you'll risk damaging the pack permanently.

When charging, to work out the charge time you simply divide your chargers output current into your battery pack's capacity.
The output current of your charger will be written on it, often with O/P or Output in front of it and is given as a number and the mA symbol, such as 500mA. High current ones may also be written simply as 1A or 1.2A etc.
The battery capacity will be written on the pack, and likely on each cell within the pack. It will be written in a similar fashion to the charger, but will be marked as mAh as it is a drain rate.

Battery Capacity / Charge Current = Charge time (in hours)

Example:

1500mAh / 500mA = 3 hours

In the OP's case:

1200mAh / 450mA = 2.667 = 2h 40m

While saying 2h 40m is the charge, the first charge is generally exempt from this rule as the battery is usually completely drained and in an unhealthy state so it needs a kick start to get it going again. I generally recommend deep cycling new packs (fully charging, then draining completely) at least two or three times, especially with Ni-Cd packs (though never with Li-Po packs).

The voltage of a "dead" pack isn't zero, nor will a charged pack read as 8.4v, 9.6v etc. The voltage will depend on the packs nominal voltage (the 8.4V, 9.6V, etc which is stamped on the pack). Taking the OP's pack as an example again, the 8.4v pack should be reading around 9.2V on a full charge and around 7.6V when depleted. If your pack ever reads zero, you have a short, most likely, a leakage situation. If it ever reads less than 6.5V you have a destroyed battery pack.

Ni-Cd's cannot be overcharged, once they're being trickle charged (1/4 current of the battery capacity or lower). They'll survive plenty of charges with an hour extra here or there on a slow charger but they can be overcharged very easily if you're using a fast charger.
Ni-MH's cannot be slow charged and can heat up during fast charging if not done properly (never exceed the batteries own capacity as a charge current unless you know what you're doing. IE, if the battery is 1500mAh, never use a charger above 1.5A). Hot Ni-MH batteries can destroy themselves if overcharged on a high current through something called thermal runaway, so always supervise batteries on fast chargers and only use ones with auto cut-off systems.


To the OP.
The situation you're describing sounds very much like the anti-reversal latch has locked into position. This is usually because the battery pack hasn't got enough juice to over-power the spring and has therefore gotten stuck half way through a cycle. The anti-reversal latch is there to prevent the spring from overpowering the piston and burning your motor out. That "clunk" noise you hear when you're pulling the trigger is the motor trying to overpower the spring and then settling back against the latch when you let go.
As I said, it's generally the battery pack that causes this. If you can, try another pack in it and see if you get any better luck with that.

To disengage the latch, simply use a fresh pack and fire a burst on full auto, then fire in semi once more to reset the piston to the "rest" position.

Alternatively, open the pistol grip base plate, disconnect and remove the motor and use a long shafted, flat head screw driver to move the exposed bevel gear one full rotation. Then reassemble the motor (be careful with the polarity) back into the grip.

If that doesn't work (or you find moving the gear is awkward or too difficult) strip the top receiver off the rifle and, using a long, narrow shafted screw driver, awl, seal pick or similar tool, push it into the air nozzle until you feel contact with the piston head. Once contact is made, push the piston completely to the rear of the gearbox, then slowly bring it forward again until it's at rest against the front of the gearbox and you no longer feel any pressure against the tool you're using. Retract the tool carefully and reassemble the rifle.

IIIAcHmEdIII

thanks naked dex i tried moveing on the gears but didnt work so im chargeing the battery again because eirsoft told me to charge it for another 5 hours but if that dosent work would opening up the gun and doin that piston thing ur were talking about void my warenty .if it dosent could u give me a more detailed discription on how to do or even a video
would be great!

thanks for the reply