I think I've found the ideal board length!

seachto7

So, I was down in Clare last night, and it all seems to be "clicking" at last.
Now, I should be a lot better than I am, but that's down to my own laziness, and I may as well plough on. After going down from a 10ft longboard I couldn't decide what to get. After a few false starts, I seem to be doing pretty good on a 7ft 9 Bic mal. I'm in the process of learning how to turn now.

So it seems to be a good length and fit for me. One thing I noticed is that sometimes catching a wave , you can feel the back lift, and I wipeout (sometimes). Is it a case of getting up on the board asap to counteract the board being lifted...
A small point regardless.
I'm chuffed that it finally seems to be going well...

Plan is to get a custom board of similar dimensions over the winter. I had thought a 7ft 6, but I might just stick to the 7ft 9. a hybrid or something..

happy out...

theo4130

seachto7 wrote: »

One thing I noticed is that sometimes catching a wave , you can feel the back lift, and I wipeout (sometimes). Is it a case of getting up on the board asap to counteract the board being lifted...
A small point regardless.
Plan is to get a custom board of similar dimensions over the winter. I had thought a 7ft 6, but I might just stick to the 7ft 9. a hybrid or something..

happy out...

if the nose goes under as you are catching a wave you are doing something wrong

catching the wave too late... common mistake (try to read the wave earlier. sitting to high up on the board... (nose should be maybe an inch or so out of water when paddling aggresively on flat water. a tip is to arch your back a little bit if you feel that this is going to happen and it should likft the nose up a bit.

if i were you i would stick with the bic until you can surf clean waves... carve a bit, pop up with the snap of your fingers! try other boards when you are confident on the bic,

seachto7

yeah, good advice there, cheers.

I dunno how to describe it, the wave catches me, and instead of pushing me "in" to shore, it kind of picks me up and pushes me "down" the wave, like I'm pointing down, the nose wouldn't be under the water, but I'll sort it out no doubt...

theo4130

seachto7 wrote: »

I dunno how to describe it, the wave catches me, and instead of pushing me "in" to shore, it kind of picks me up and pushes me "down" the wave, like I'm pointing down, the nose wouldn't be under the water, but I'll sort it out no doubt...

sounds like youare cathcing the wave too late then, some time spent observing where the wave is breaking or even watching professional (ie. not youtube) surf videos... can help a great deal. good luck with your ventures!

seachto7

theo4130 wrote: »

sounds like youare cathcing the wave too late then, some time spent observing where the wave is breaking or even watching professional (ie. not youtube) surf videos... can help a great deal. good luck with your ventures!

yeah, I've watched some videos and do find them a great help. I also watch other people in the water, see how they go at it too....cheers

ThOnda

I am white water surfing begginer who rents foamies - prevents lots of problems mentioned above

OuterBombie

seachto7 wrote: »

yeah, good advice there, cheers.

I dunno how to describe it, the wave catches me, and instead of pushing me "in" to shore, it kind of picks me up and pushes me "down" the wave, like I'm pointing down, the nose wouldn't be under the water, but I'll sort it out no doubt...

The crux of it is that it sounds like you are not popping up quickly enough. Down the wave is the way you want to go (ideally standing up) and then you use that momentum to turn back up onto the face.

Try angling the board more so that instead of pointing straight into the beach you are pointed more the direction that the wave is breaking. This does several things:

- reduces the angle so the nose won't catch and you won't face plant.
- gives you more time to pop-up.
- avoids the bottom turn and gets you out onto the shoulder faster.

The angle you use depends on the wave type but you get to a point we you'll end up going over the falls sideways if its too much.

Try it a few times lying prone and then try it while popping up.

Enjoy.

seachto7

OuterBombie, cheers for that. Yeah, I've been trying to take off at an angle rather than straight ahead into the beach. I definitely think my pop up isn't quick enough but I'll try it first without getting up on the board to get the feel of taking off at an angle, then try and pop up...

kodute

What I was told once was instead of angling the board, keep it straight on and when the wave catches the board lean on one rail (left or right) slightly. This should get you going down the face of the wave...

Haven't tried it tho, still doing speed killing bottom turns!