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Upgrading - how much should I spend?

  • 11-08-2009 8:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 385 ✭✭


    OK - I'm on a Specialized Allez: Aluminium frame, stock wheels, Shimano Tiagra groupset. It's my first road bike, so it's all I'm used to.

    I'm thinking about getting a new bike after the winter, but I'm not sure what frame/bits etc to get. The usual response to "which bike?" is "what budget", but I'm not sure what budget I'm worth. I don't want to end up on a bike that's too good for me (although I probably am now...). I did (cough - most of) the Marmotte this year and got a kick out of passing high-end Pinarellos on the climbs - I wouldn't want to overspend and look like too much of a Fred!

    I'll be using it mainly for long spins, sportives and (depending on how the winter goes) racing next year. I'd prefer to go fast uphill than on the flat if there's a tradeoff between light-weight over aeroness.

    So some questions:

    - How noticeably better is 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace etc?
    - How much better is a carbon frame than Aluminium? I like the idea of a smoother ride on bumpy roads.
    - What are the practical differences between eg bonded tubes vs monocoque etc. Are there different grades of carbon?
    - Is a €1500 Alu bike better than a €1500 Carbon one?
    - What about wheels?

    I realise that 'better' depends on purpose, but I'm just hoping to get some ideas really.

    Ta!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    OK - I'm on a Specialized Allez: Aluminium frame, stock wheels, Shimano Tiagra groupset. It's my first road bike, so it's all I'm used to.

    I'm thinking about getting a new bike after the winter, but I'm not sure what frame/bits etc to get. The usual response to "which bike?" is "what budget", but I'm not sure what budget I'm worth. I don't want to end up on a bike that's too good for me (although I probably am now...). I did (cough - most of) the Marmotte this year and got a kick out of passing high-end Pinarellos on the climbs - I wouldn't want to overspend and look like too much of a Fred!

    I'll be using it mainly for long spins, sportives and (depending on how the winter goes) racing next year. I'd prefer to go fast uphill than on the flat if there's a tradeoff between light-weight over aeroness.

    So some questions:

    - How noticeably better is 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace etc?
    Ultegra is perfect, 105 is still good, DA is overkill.
    - How much better is a carbon frame than Aluminium? I like the idea of a smoother ride on bumpy roads.
    Some carbon bikes are better than some alu, and vice versus.
    - What are the practical differences between eg bonded tubes vs monocoque etc. Are there different grades of carbon?
    SO many different grades.
    - Is a €1500 Alu bike better than a €1500 Carbon one?
    [/quoate]
    At that price point I'd go alu.
    - What about wheels?
    Again how long is a piece of string. Price and budget really will ditacte everything.

    I realise that 'better' depends on purpose, but I'm just hoping to get some ideas really.

    Ta!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭TurloughT


    I’m suffering from a similar dilema myself. I have an old alu bike and have been thinking about upgrading, hoping to use the government scheme as a sort of discount on a better bike.

    I happened to be in cycle superstore the other day buying a few bits and pieces and I asked the guy working there if you could buy a frame using the scheme, he say “oh yea no problem’. And goes on, “and you don’t have to spend a grand either, you can spend two whatever”. I nod, he continues, “ yea, you can spend 3k, 5k “

    How did he know I’m lusting after the black Prince? Was it written all over my face? Do they know we all want one and just wait for us to come in to torture us?
    I had to run out of the shop.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 289 ✭✭bbosco


    Best bang per buck upgrade is usually wheels. Stock wheels on most bikes aren't great, usually a couple of steps in quality below rest of the bike. If you get a good, new set of wheels now, you'll improve your current bike significantly and have something you can move across to any new bike you buy further down the road. Lots of options for new wheels (don't forget to look into handbuilts while you're at it). A wheelbuilder once told me that when choosing wheels you can only tick two of these three boxes: strong, light, cheap.

    It's usually most cost-effective to upgrade your frame and groupset as part of a whole new bike. Having said that there are lot of bargains out there if you look hard enough and choosing your own frame and then choosing and building up the components is great fun and gives you a great sense of satisfaction.

    As for how much money to spend? Well, only you can decide that :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    I would disagree with Tunney on the €1,500 bike question, would definitely go carbon at that price point, there are a lot of very decent carbon bikes. Only reason to consider alu there IMHO would be if it was just for racing, and even then... It _is_ a generalisation but you have more of chance of getting light and comfortable with the carbon in my view. I have ridden identical geometry Trek aluminium and carbon and the comfort difference was simply incredible.

    Agree with Tunney 100% on the groupsets, I have Ultegra and DA and very difficult to tell the difference. I believe modern 105 may indeed be in the same category mechanically just a bit heavier.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,234 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Sorry, but you really need to decide your budget first.

    However, you mentioned €1500. Lets assume this is a "clean sheet" budget, i.e. not dependent on you selling your current bike.

    You mentioned several things:

    - You enjoy passing uber-Freds on climbs.
    - You want to race.

    You failed to mentioned other things:

    - You don't like your bike
    - Your bike is uncomfortable

    Therefore, your current bike is fine.

    I would focus on your prime objectives - going faster without looking flash. If you could "win" the Marmotte on a rusty but functional BSO it would be "mission accomplished".

    It's not about the bike.

    The only way you'll go significantly faster is by having a better bike fit, and training better, and training more.

    Bike fit. Even if you feel comfortable, small changes can make big differences. Even if you change nothing, you'll done the due diligence and eliminated that as a possible cause of going slow.

    Fancy frame. You can justify any aesthetic or comfort change on the grounds that if you like your bike more you'll train more. The best bang for buck would probably be a carbon frameset, maybe a Ribble or Planet-X.

    Wheels. Do not make you go faster, and wear out. Either consider them fragile and disposable, or buy some that can be easily re-trued, serviced and rebuilt. Much of the weight savings of expensive wheels are at the hubs, where the "rotating weight" factor has no effect.

    Personally, I'd spend your money on this (shop around), a couple of training books (Joe Friel's Bible and Training and Racing with a Power Meter) and a bike fit session with Irish Fit. It's working for me (apart from the bike fit, which I haven't found time for yet).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 385 ✭✭stopped_clock


    @Lumen:

    I've just had a look for this thread and saw I'd missed your reply. You made some really excellent points. Although it does seem to be against the forum rules of recommending as much expensive shiny stuff as possible :D.

    Daft as it sounds, as much as anything buying an expensive new bike is like a declaration that "I'm serious about cycling now!".

    btw the figure of €1500 was originally to get an idea of the tradeoffs between highish-end alu vs lowish-end carbon. I'd probably up my budget to at least €2k if I were to get a new bike - I've done some research since and come up with a list of bikes I like the idea of which tend to come in around the £2200 (yep sterling) price point.

    Your logic is perfectly sound and I agree: there's nothing wrong with the bike I have. Damn.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    If you really want to make some upgrades - Consider, 105 groupset is roughly 2.2 kilos(I weighed them fitting new bike), Ultegra SL is 0.9 kilos. Most of that difference is in the cranks/chainrings. Given that new 105 performs nearly as well as Ultegra you could purchase the gruppo or just get the chainset/cranks!


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