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How many teeth do you use?

  • 08-08-2009 9:45am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,565 ✭✭✭


    Hey all, Ive been looking (not very successfully) for threads about gears, ratios etc which cogs people use for different spins . Just wondering what people use day to day or when climbing, flat, sportives etc

    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100


    Compact 50/34 with 11-25, and yes Tunney, I know its not a 'real cyclist's ' setup ;) .... but I'm damn glad of it at times on the Conor Pass, however I am working up to using a standard.

    BTW Bouldwhacker, are you based in Bantry ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Murph100 wrote: »
    Compact 50/34 with 11-25, and yes Tunney, I know its not a 'real cyclist's ' setup ;) .... but I'm damn glad of it at times on the Conor Pass, however I am working up to using a standard.

    A compact is often a sensible choice and often the best choice. Just depends on where you live and what type of riding you do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭peterako


    Well...I tend to use my molars a lot so I guess all 32.....

    Oh! Bicycle!

    Slowly getting back to fitness so have gone from max of 39x25 around here in Feb to having a 39x23 but usually only using the 39x21 :)

    So now have 53/39 x 13/23.

    It's not TOO hilly around here but there are some STEEP short climbs.

    Last time I was on the Connor Pass (when I was not so fit in 2006) I used a 39x28 most of the way. Hoping to do the climb again this year with a bail out 39x26.

    The Mountain bike has 22/32/44 x 11/34.

    Peter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    tunney wrote: »
    A compact is often a sensible choice and often the best choice. Just depends on where you live and what type of riding you do.

    Aside from the lower gearing which allows use of a closer spaced rear cassette, I think the other advantage of a compact is the greater choice of chainrings on 110BCD. I'm considering a "semi" setup for my new compact crankset using 52/38 or 50/36, and an 11-25 cassette, which should combine decent front shifting with tolerably close spacing on the rear, and more front mech clearance for fitting Q-rings.

    If I do something nutty like the Marmotte I can just throw the 34 back on and stick a 12-28 on the rear without having to change crankset.

    Not sure I'll be fast enough in the near future to need 11-53 anyway.

    If anyone can suggest a more gimmicky setup I'm all ears. :pac:


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,269 Mod ✭✭✭✭Chips Lovell


    53/39, with 12/27 for my regular wheels and 11/23 on my race wheels.
    Lumen wrote: »
    I'm considering a "semi" setup for my new compact crankset...

    So, you'll be sporting a semi?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    el tonto wrote: »
    So, you'll be sporting a semi?

    Yes, all that garbage about sprockets is just cover for the opportunity to make lame knob gags. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    tunney wrote: »
    A compact is often a sensible choice and often the best choice. Just depends on where you live and what type of riding you do.
    And how WEAK you are :pac: IIRC you said before it is a sensible choice only if you happen to live in the Alps...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100


    Yeah Tunney, whats with the mellow attitude ? Godammit man, pull yerself together !! :pac:

    blorg wrote: »
    And how WEAK you are :pac: IIRC you said before it is a sensible choice only if you happen to live in the Alps...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    As for me, I have two cranksets for my road bike, 53/39 and 50/34, and two cassettes, 12-27 and 11-23. So I have a fair range there. Have a triple 52/39/30 on my tourer with 12-27 on the back. Fixed gear is a 46 on the front with a choice of 17 or 14 on the back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100


    Blorg, is the shifting really better on the Standard compared to the Compact, or is it all a load of BS ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Some of this is interesting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Murph100


    Yeah, explains the rare but freaky chainsuck and why I slip the odd chain, thank feck for the Dog Fang !!

    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/product-components/2009-deda-elementi-dog-fang-chain-guide-4180.1902.0.html

    So the 50/36 looks like the best/easiest solution apart from going to a standard with a huge cassette !!
    Lumen wrote: »
    Some of this is interesting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭E@gle.


    39/ 23 on my regular wheels

    39/21 on my race wheels

    I used a 34/27 for the marmotte and i needed every gear i had


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    blorg wrote: »
    And how WEAK you are :pac: IIRC you said before it is a sensible choice only if you happen to live in the Alps...

    And this comment is consistent with my previous ones :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Murph100 wrote: »
    Yeah Tunney, whats with the mellow attitude ? Godammit man, pull yerself together !! :pac:

    Sorry, didn't meant to disappoint. I'll try to be more of a d!ckhead in future.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Murph100 wrote: »
    Blorg, is the shifting really better on the Standard compared to the Compact, or is it all a load of BS ?
    The shifting is a bit better, yes, but the main difference is that you don't have the big change in cadence when you move between rings. To a certain extent you can counter this by simultaneously shifting at the back, but shifting on a standard is definitely "nicer" overall than on a compact.

    I have never dropped a chain on a standard or compact but it is was/is an infrequent but occuring occurence on my triples.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    blorg wrote: »
    you can counter this [big chainring size jump] by simultaneously shifting at the back....I have never dropped a chain on a standard or compact but it is was/is an infrequent but occuring occurence on my triples.

    For me, dropping a chain is usually caused by simultaneous shifting front and back (smaller cogs both ends = big drop in chain tension), to the extent that I generally shift up at the back before shifting down at the front.

    Maybe this is why compacts have this reputation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,606 ✭✭✭Jumpy


    Being new to this, I have no idea. The front cog has "50-F" written on it if that is any help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Lumen wrote: »
    For me, dropping a chain is usually caused by simultaneous shifting front and back (smaller cogs both ends = big drop in chain tension), to the extent that I generally shift up at the back before shifting down at the front.

    Maybe this is why compacts have this reputation.
    In my experience chain drop doesn't happen outside triples. I had had (relatively rare) instances of chain drop on every triple I have owned and never on the doubles. I think anything that extends the total range makes it more likely all right. Compacts are probably more likely but substantially less so than a triple (in my experience.)

    I don't think this is a big problem with triples BTW (outside a race scenario) - it is not that frequent and generally easily fixed.


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