Laminate flooring?

ThePiedPiper

Hi, first post to the board,

We're getting to the stage when we'll be putting floors down soon.. I had thought I'd put down solid or semi-solid flooring but after discussions with a salesperson in a flooring shop, I'm not so sure..

She reckoned the laminates now being produced are much better quality and hold up to wear and tear better than solid wood floors.. i've spoken to people who have had both and most reckoned that the solid flooring marks easily and is hard to maintain and are happier with their laminate flooring.

any thoughts would be much appreciated..

Tester46

Yeah I'd be interested in opinions as well. I'm looking at getting solid oak tongue & grooved floors boards. Guy in shop said to go for "engineered boards" - these are 6mm of oak glued onto a plywood base. I prefer the idea of getting solid planks of oak which slot together nicely due to the T&Ging. As they are solid pieces, in my head that's better cuz they won't fall apart in a few years???

I don't mind getting marks and bumps on them as (a) they are a hardwood (oak) and (b) hey, that's what happens to wood - it's normal!

Carlow52

Good quality laminate > 25 euro sq m the only way

iamlegend2008

Hi

Regarding the comments about engineered flooring not being solid wood:

I also had these concerns for my house which isn ear the ocean and my friend explained it as such:

Solid wood flooring absorbs moisture to a much greater degree than an engineered floor and therefore is much more likely to twist/cup/move. In addition, an engineered floor does not need to be left onsite for 2-3 weeks to acclimatise.

An engineered floor with still have a minimum of 5mm of solid material that can be sanded down multiple times and refinished if needed.

Even my "oak" doors are actually engineered oak doors.

As regards, wood floors (of any description) vs laminate floors, many people recommend laminate floors and I have a friend who makes a good living just resanding "real" floors that have received damage flrom stones,scapes etc.

However, Ihave also noticed that many people find laminates perfectly acceptable for less visible areas such as bedrooms but insist on solid/engineered/semisolid for living rooms etc.

There is probably a degree of floor snobbery alive and kicking in Ireland

Cheers

bauderline

This may seem like a dumb question.... but how do you determine what is "quality" laminate flooring. If the last ten years have taught us anything its that price isn't always a useful guage of quality.....

Is there some sort of grading system of laminate that I can ask about when looking at various products ?

Any suggestions for suppliers of quality laminate floors ? (pm please).

P.

scull2009

for the engineered boards its much cheaper... around £16/m2 for american black walnut.
they look very classy also...
i would suggest american black walnut

soldsold

Hi Scull2009,

Can you please PM if you have a supplier at this price?

Thanks!

funnyname

scull2009 wrote: »

for the engineered boards its much cheaper... around £16/m2 for american black walnut.
they look very classy also...
i would suggest american black walnut

Bargain comepared to one site I've just checked where it's on sale at a 30% discount for £34.44 psm

Gurgle

bauderline wrote: »

This may seem like a dumb question.... but how do you determine what is "quality" laminate flooring. If the last ten years have taught us anything its that price isn't always a useful guage of quality.....

In my experience, theres no difference in quality of the actual flooring beyond the realism of the wood-grain effect.

The quality of underlay is the main factor in 'perceived' quality once the floor is down.

ThePiedPiper

Thanks for replies...
Judging on this, I'll probably do all upstairs in laminate and the two rooms downstairs that's not tiled in engineered..
Not much space for floor snobs in 2009 I don't think...
Cheers.

reilig

Sorry to hog the thread, but from all info above, can someone tell me the difference between Engineered floor boards and semi-solid floor boards? (other than the price).

soldsold

Thought this might be of interest - cut and pasted from an Irish flooring supplier:

The structure of an engineered board results in increased dimensional stability over solid wood. The exception to this is a quarter sawn solid board which, due to the cut of the log, will also give greater stability.

If you are unsure as to whether you should chose an engineered or solid wood floor consider the following questions with relation to your property:

1. Are you concerned about having gaps in your flooring?
2. Is the flooring to be fitted above underfloor heating?
3. Is there a lot of glass, i.e floor to ceiling panes or a sunroom?
4. Is it a holiday home or is it expected that the property may be left vacant for several weeks at a time?
5. Is the property/room below grade, i.e. is any part of it below the external soil level of the house?
6. Is the building very old with questionable insulation and ventilation?
7. Is it to be used for an open plan area or where the width of room exceeds 20ft/ 5.5m?
8. Is the flooring to be laid in a public space or offices?
9. Is your heating system either electric or gas?
10. Is the flooring to be laid floating?
11. Is the property in an area of or near to dense woodland?
12. Is there a stream, lake or sea close to the property?

If you answer yes to any of the above then it is advised that you discuss the particulars of your jobsite with one of our experts as it might be best to choose an engineered board.

For many of the above scenarios the inherent problem will be above or below average humidity levels and subsequent excess expansion or contraction of your floor. If your preference is still for a solid board humidity control devices should be used. These can be purchased directly from us and will maintain a normal level of humidity in your room.

scull2009

the flooring was kahrs american black walnut flooring...
if my memory serves me correctly it was from http://www.antrimflooringcompany.co.uk/
and the time was this time last year
this was the rate the construction company i worked for in co. antrim was getting it for ive sent this pm to 2 other people on this board....


maybe as they were a big construction company they were able to get it alot cheaper.
ordering 200-500m2 at a time

edit: i may have been wrong... might have been £30/m2 then £16/joiner hour of labour, seems more likely, sorry if ive mislead

scull2009

just looking on ebay
there is a kahrs oak engineered floor for £19/m2, although not sure of delivery prices
probably wouldnt be that dear for courier if you were buying enough of it


hxxp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAHRS-ENGINEERED-OAK-LACQUERED-COMO-3-STRIP_W0QQitemZ390075467982QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Flooring?hash=item5ad24f48ce&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Carlow52

bauderline wrote: »

This may seem like a dumb question.... but how do you determine what is "quality" laminate flooring. If the last ten years have taught us anything its that price isn't always a useful guage of quality.....

Is there some sort of grading system of laminate that I can ask about when looking at various products ?

Any suggestions for suppliers of quality laminate floors ? (pm please).

P.

The discerning, informed, well researched customer was and always will be able to determine the impact of price on quality.

The insto-gratification, must have that now, dick roche type blow and bluster customer never was and never will be able to determine the impact of price on quality and cannot read between the lines unless perhaps they are white.

A simple 'quality' test is where can the product be used so if it is suitable for pubs/hotels/etc then you can be assured that its fit for purpose.
The compressed cardboard crap that masquerades as quality laminate is just that: crap.

bauderline

... well looking at the web site for the flooring company in antrim listed above they outline a grading system of AC1 to AC5 for laminate flooring. Should I be asking for this when I go looking for the flooring ? Will they have a fiddlers notion what I am on about ?

... I would like to get my hands on the commercial grade flooring you find in pubs and shops, some of it looks very well, however whenever you go to a supplier and they tell you "yes, that's commercial grade flooring" how do you really know that it is... that is why I am banging on about the grading system ?

... and I know not to buy 1000 euro handbags out of BT :eek: so I must know something about quality and price....

JuniorB

another possible option to add to the mix.. wood effect floor tiles
http://www.ribaproductselector.com/Docs/5/10365/external/COL2510365.pdf?ac=

been quoted mad prices for these but there's one place up north that quoted £30 + VAT per sq yd.
seems like an ideal solution with UFH

u2thepale

Heya, thought i'd jump in regarding laminate flooring. I'm due to replace the very cheap & marked laminate that is in our hallway and small box room in the coming weeks.

Initialy I wanted to go with the real Mccoy eg .Solid wood ,....had various people out quoting etc... they all suggested going a good quality laminate as obviously the hall is a high traffic area.
Eventually I have taken the advice and have bought a supposed good quality laminate, price was best around and even the supplier was suprised
at the price .
It's a walnut colour and has the odd cream streak running through the board which breaks it up nicely.IMO
It's 9mill and looks pretty damn nice for laminate:)
Am hoping to lay it down at the end of the month while the other half's away

I'm sure I'll be back be ask for advice on how to lay the bloody stuff!!
I have no affilitaion to this company btw ,
http://www.balterio.com/collection.php?cid=4&con=eu&lang=en

if anyones intererested will let you know how i get on!!

John G

I put an 'engineered' laminate floor down in a house I've rented. The tennants have just moved out nearly 4 years later. The house was not cleaned once. After a quick wipe with a mop and a sweep the floor looks brand new. I got them in B&Q for €10 ish / sqm. They are kitchen grade whick means they are more resistant to water / should cope with spills.

Bought a second hand house with Solid Oak laminate flooring in the kitchen. The floors are down about 6 years, The varnish is wearing off and so makes the floor look dirty and cheap all the time even when cleaned.

Based on my experience I'd be saying 'engineered' all the way. Buying smart need not equate to paying lots.

u2thepale

Thought I'd carry on this thread instead of starting another one !!
As previously posted my lamintae flooring will be delivered this week, and then the works starts...oh **** !!!

Anyhow, there's one thing I'm not 100% certain yet and that which direction to lay the floors.

In the Hallway I'm definately laying lenghthway as is currently as it makes the Hallway seem longer , however off the hallway , we have a small "boxroom" .The room itself is nearly a perfect square .

Im Replacing the laminate thats down currently in the Box room .
1.
Was thinking if I layed the laminate down widthways (from the window wall to opposite wall ), that way i would only need a connecting profile to join the flaminate from hall to box room, and would lok more seemless.... if you get me

2.If I Lay the floor down as is currently I think from looking in to the room from the hallway , you actually see more of the floor as its running th e direction your looking in , the balterio exotic im getting has differnet varaitions running though it so this might be the prefeered option ???

Am looking for anyones opinions before I jump in
Have attached current setup so you get what im talking about!!
Any help is a great help!!

dcom

Hi U2thepale,

I agree with your option number 1, it would look better if it all was running the one direction especially if your box room is square it wont make much of a difference. Also if the length of the planks are in line with the light coming in the window it might look better???

Thats just my opinion for what its worth.

D

u2thepale

Cheers, Dcom.

You've put the cat amongst the pidgoens there:)

The angle of the photo might not be the best , as in ...looking straight on might be a better view.
Also just reading up , I think i might Need to use a T-strip between the floors because of expansion etc..

I think laying them as they are in the pricture would be an easier installation because of the door jambs , but like you said aesthically might look better laid from window to other wall , just means having an akward piece to fit the door jamb!!

Choices choices

Any more opinions welcome!!

u2thepale

Just in case anyone is intereted to see what the walnut Exotic Balterio looks like, here's my before & after...
Floors 006.jpg

Floors 115.jpg

Gurgle

u2thepale wrote: »

Just in case anyone is intereted to see what the walnut Exotic Balterio looks like, here's my before & after...
Floors 006.jpg

Floors 115.jpg

Wow, nice job.
DIY or did you get a fitter?

u2thepale

Cheers Gurgle,

Was a DIY, probably took three times as long as it should have as it was my first attempt at laying laminate, wasted a good few boards trying to get the door jambs right, there were 3 in total that weren't under-cut, !!! but was worth it in the end !!
Bit more satisfaction when you've but the sweat in yourself

Oh yeah cheers DCOM for the advice!!

tred

u2thepale wrote: »

Heya, thought i'd jump in regarding laminate flooring. I'm due to replace the very cheap & marked laminate that is in our hallway and small box room in the coming weeks.

Initialy I wanted to go with the real Mccoy eg .Solid wood ,....had various people out quoting etc... they all suggested going a good quality laminate as obviously the hall is a high traffic area.
Eventually I have taken the advice and have bought a supposed good quality laminate, price was best around and even the supplier was suprised
at the price .
It's a walnut colour and has the odd cream streak running through the board which breaks it up nicely.IMO
It's 9mill and looks pretty damn nice for laminate:)
Am hoping to lay it down at the end of the month while the other half's away

I'm sure I'll be back be ask for advice on how to lay the bloody stuff!!
I have no affilitaion to this company btw ,
http://www.balterio.com/collection.php?cid=4&con=eu&lang=en

if anyones intererested will let you know how i get on!!

Floor came out fantasstically well. Where did u buy it, and how did it work out cost wise?

u2thepale

tred wrote: »

Floor came out fantasstically well. Where did u buy it, and how did it work out cost wise?

Tred,
Altogether including good underlay , it cost a total of €632.
The area was 27y2, I also did under the stairs which isn't in the pics.
House of Tiles in Kylemore (no affiliation) were selling the walnut at €19 py2 incl vat.. which was a v.gud price as I have seen it sold for €22 and up.

Also i put a deposit down on the price they were selling it for as I was skint at the time & two months later paid the rest ..happy days.

As regard materials , I had a jigsaw, and a Bosch PMF 180 E which was in-valauble when undercutting the door frames and sanding the grooves when needed.!!

The T-bar's cost something like €25.
Installation.....priceless

tred

u2thepale wrote: »

Tred,
Altogether including good underlay , it cost a total of €632.
The area was 27y2, I also did under the stairs which isn't in the pics.
House of Tiles in Kylemore (no affiliation) were selling the walnut at €19 py2 incl vat.. which was a v.gud price as I have seen it sold for €22 and up.

Also i put a deposit down on the price they were selling it for as I was skint at the time & two months later paid the rest ..happy days.

As regard materials , I had a jigsaw, and a Bosch PMF 180 E which was in-valauble when undercutting the door frames and sanding the grooves when needed.!!

The T-bar's cost something like €25.
Installation.....priceless

Good Stuff. Pretty well impressed wiht that floor. Looks as good as a solid layout...

dlambirl

I'm in the process of putting down a wooden floor in my hall and living room. We always thought it'd be semi-solid but after talking to sales people and friends who have solid and semi-solid floors we were totally put off.

In one shop the sales person got him nail and scored the semi solid plank making a noticable line, then he told me to walk over it with heels and it destroyed it. The laminate hadnt a mark on it.

We have got a 10mm laminate flooring in narrow planks that look like semi-solid. There is also 12mm stuff on the market too (manufacturer: Boru)
We got a good deal on ours (Kaindl) at €15 per sq ft cos its €18-€19 everywhere else.

One big thing is to shop around, the prices for the same make changes dramatically from shop to shop.

Also, get good underlay. The rubber underlay with the foil back is 100 times better than the standard foam underlay and you'll get a more solid feel to the floor.

Blizzard

Great job u2thepale - love it!

imitation

That floor looks great. The one question I have about laminates or engineered vs solid is how do they wear over the decades ? You can just sand down many wood floors if they get a bit worn and they build a bit of character, but what about the other two ? Would the wood effect just wear off eventually and leave you with horrible bald spots in the floor showing the mdf or whatever underneath ?

Gurgle

imitation wrote: »

Would the wood effect just wear off eventually and leave you with horrible bald spots in the floor showing the mdf or whatever underneath ?

Decades, several of them at least.